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Gents, I am to read a bunch of compliments about how this website is unique and helpful. I'm stepping in because we seemed to divert into a name calling spree with finger pointing at "who did it" ... Please respect each others' opinion and move on with the topic at hand. We are a classic Z forum and a community of like-minded individuals. With all the crazy $^!# going on in the world right now, the least we can do is respect each other and act humanely. That said, I agree this forum is very unique. It serves a small portion of the massive car communities around the world. When you talk about the Classic Z, this place fits an important part of history. Without guys like us, this car would be just another metal box on wheels forgotten in time. That, I am proud of. Thanks, Mike

These forums would get a lot more interesting if they became Zoom meetings. Although on second thought, I'm sure it would then quickly descend into what every webcam-based chat room eventually succumbs to... We're lucky to have people on a public forum with passion and knowledge which they are willing to share. People come from various backgrounds and cultures which is difficult to see behind a keyboard. If we all took things a bit more light-heartedly, we wouldn't get so offended all the time. I'm always up for a passionate debate as long as it's backed by clarity, fastidiousness, and humility. A lack thereof creates an incongruity in the discussion which, especially on the internet, can cause the other party to get defensive and petty. This either results in the other party (a) eventually putting their ego aside and realizing why the discussion went awry or (b) "stone the troll". YMMV

I noticed the effect of this servo very soon after taking delivery of my car back in '71 - the car was not providing any engine braking when I lifted off the accelerator. This was really a PITA to someone active in the local autocross scene! It didn't take a lot of investigation to trace the culprit and perform a bit of "civil disobedience" with an adjustment to the offending screw. Tailpipe emissions tests of that era did not detect the change and the car was more responsive to spirited driving.

Since the #6 Diaphragm (and #3 control valve) has been removed on your car the #13 screw does nothing. The zip tie is just to keep the bar the #6 diaphragm and #13 screw attach to from flopping around since it no longer is used to slightly hold the throttle open during deceleration.

Y’all are absolutely correct, Motorsport/ZCarSource does have the KONI s and they are the complete strut! Ordered them from Anthony, today! They have about 30 fronts and rears for late-260s and all 280s. I must have contacted the wrong vendor... how??? thanks again to everyone have a Z day😉 Doug/ PackerZ

Received the oversized rings today, as it turns out they are just a little bit longer. I spent several hours filing each one to each piston and I feel really good about it. I’m now well within tolerance and the overall shape seems fine. The only hiccup I had was not realizing that the lower compression ring is seemingly made of a softer material and I overground one 🤦‍♂️... still a much closer fit than the standard size so I’m sure it will be fine.

Unless you can crack it open and visually inspect it, it will be a gamble. Maybe the owner will let you do that. I paid a guy €25 once to let me open it first. Then I could inspect the synchros and gears. If I didn't buy it, I would bolt it back together afterwards and he could keep the €25. I'd rather spend €25 than end up spending €300 on a dud transmission. Zed head has already given you some good tips to try. The problem is such a test could identify a shot centre bearing and put you off buying it, but a centre bearing is readily available and easy to replace. The rotation test will not find a worn synchro ring or selector. There is simply not enough force on the gears for it to jump out of gear or create noise.

Hi z3beemer. Here is a picture of my ‘71 z. If this is the seam in question, hope it helps. let me know if you need more pictures.

Ok, this is good stuff. So, #10 for air flow balancing. In going back and forth between that other article and the service manual I have, the same terms are not always used for each adjusting screw/nut. Btw, I do have a screw to put in the vacant hole ... From my flat top linkage "junk pile".

You have to find someone that scavenged them off a wreck. They are spot welded to the body. I have one. Let me know. I have the other part that bolts to this piece that the strut hydraulic attaches to as well if you’re missing that too

Here's an alternative view on the function of the missing screw (#13). Its purpose is to adjust/manage the effect of the servo (#6). The servo is an emissions control device to slow the rate of deceleration of the carbs when the accelerator pedal is suddenly lifted and avoid a dump of raw fuel into the intake. That's why the decals on the air filter say "don't touch". With the servo deleted from the balance tube, this screw either missing or present makes no difference. The zip tie on the linkage can be left in place or removed, same answer - no difference.

I love it when I make a good mistake!! Of course now I will have to take the other second rings back off the pistons and match them up... my OCD hurts sometimes. I was impressed by the quality of the TPR rings, I'm no expert but the material just felt like higher quality than the Wiseco. I'm not sure if you are planning something similar but if you are the process isn't too bad, a bit tedious and time consuming but once you do a few it goes pretty quick. I have about 4 hours invested in the process, 1 of which was spent on the first ring. Just be patient and "sneak" up on the gap your shooting for, I literally would take a measurement and need just one turn of the grinding wheel to get it where I wanted it.

It's been awhile but the airflow sync I use to balance air flow I turned #10 screws on my '72 SUs. That spring loaded screw you're missing keeps the linkage tight and snug for butterfly respose. It's not really used to balance them but keeps them responsive to your foot on the pedal. I would watch a few YouTube videos. There's some pretty good ones now. Good luck.

I was looking over the ebay ad last night and noticed the "unrestored" description, so I thought I would feel the guy out, I asked him how he could call the car unrestored with the floor pans replaced, a second paint job, new seat covers and a dash cap. I also asked wasn't he afraid of litigation from an unsuspecting buyer, Here is his reply, Lol... ok I’ve only sold 100 of these cars on eBay to happy buyers all over the world with 100% feedback... but you could be right... or ... regular maintenance and upkeep on a 50 year old car which is fully described is normal and NOT what real collectors think is restoration... but yea thanks for the advice... litigation 🤦🏻‍♂️😂 ... -harmony01

Makes a big difference where you put the decimal point. 🤣 Opps!! Looks like it was relisted again a third time.

Beautiful, so much nicer to have clean metal to work with.

they don't have struts, but they do have strut inserts : https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20b04

Slightly delayed because of holday season and the current COVID situation, but i just got some pictures from the blaster, and a note that the chassis is done. They blasted the whole car with non abrasive plastic media, which doesnt warp big thin surfaces. Where abrasives were needed, they added a bit of sand to remove rust and bondo (partially). The sticker underbody protecting-stuff was removed by dry-ice blasting... You can clearly see the many repairs on the inner front fender and Air channel and the ton of bondo remaining on the LH rear quarter. Luckily the engine bay looks nice at the first view, but i have to inspect closer once it's back at my place. This is the side that has already been finnished by the bodyshop (the brown stuff is remaining seam sealer...) this is the undone side. Luckily i have a NOS spare roof and rear quarter in stock to fix this. Meanwhile the chassis should also be primered with a weldable primer. In the next days they will return it to me and then i'll take some better pictures and a closer look at all the details... Just a little tip from my side. If you ever do a full restoration like this. start with cleaning the chassis. not like me who started with the bodywork just to blast the chassis when half of it was already done. well you learn new things all th e time - and that's what makes a project like this so much fun 🙂 More coming soon....

Pretty proud of how these vintage SK throttle bodies came out. All new zinc, shafts and butterfly’s. I can’t wait for them to sing on my 3.1L

Made progress today... They forgot the sway-bar reinforcements, so they started that. Not pleased about the sequencing of this but they assured me it will be great in the end. ? I put the rear suspension in: I put the front suspension in: And it looks like a car again! No more spaceship z. Theres still a pile to do, including fixing some things they already sprayed, but it’s coming along. Panels and doors should be getting gapped shortly.

In other news, I went with undercoating on the floor, mostly to black it out when viewed from the side.