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Don't forget that all that Democrat pedophilic cannibalism happens in the basements of pizza shops, without that detail it looses all credibility.

First seat finished and handed over for the fitting and the adjustment of the new floor/support/transmission tunnel (Thanks @wheee! for your advice on this one !) The rear left wheel arch completed, so now its "only" the floor area 😂 Spare tire well done, floor cutting started yesterday. I have also asked the welding mask question to my dude and his answer was straight forward and funny at the same time: "I am from Philippines, I have small eyes so no problem".

It wouldn't have been that difficult to oust them. Take a lesson from history. Lay siege to the compound. No one in or out. Cut off water and food. Three days after the water runs out their focus would change from their selfish Narcissism to I need water. No shots fired.

Well, those morons at the BLM did accomplish a couple of things, both negative: trashing environmentally sensitive protected areas, and encouraging other freeloaders who don't want to pay their leasing fees for running stock on government land. It flabbergasts me that the feds didn't pursue the case against them more energetically.

My thought was more about "what now" after they got in there. Even if they accomplished their "mission" and there were several dead politicians scattered around, then what? Occupy the Capitol building? I lived in the Portland area when the same type of people "occupied" the Malheur Wildlife Refuge buildings. All they did was camp out there for a little over a month, but accomplished nothing. Same type of scenario, use their guns and take over a tiny spot on the face of the globe. For what? The wild west isn't wild anymore. That stuff doesn't work now. https://www.oregonlive.com/portland/2017/02/oregon_standoff_timeline_41_da.html

Well after forty years of ownership I'm finally starting a second go around at restoring my 1970 240Z. I purchased the car well used in 1978 with 90,000 plus miles from the local Datsun Dealership in Chilliwack, BC Canada. Here is a picture from July '78: Here is what it looks like today. Looks reasonable but the paint is showing its age and there are some other issues lurking that need to be fixed properly. Full disclosure will come later. Restoration number one was done in 1982 and I only did what I could afford at the time. I actually think this first attempt of was really "Canadian maintenance", my poor Zed was at a do or die point. Here are a few pics from 1982: I went to the parts department at my local Datsun dealership and made, what I learned later was, the largest order of body parts that anyone had ever placed with them to that point. By the time my body man and painter were finished and with the cost of the car, I could have bought a brand new 1978 280Z instead, but hey I was 18 at the time and I have never regretted doing it. In future installments I will list my restoration goals add a time line of my 40 years of ownership, after I sort and scan more of my old pictures. Anyway I plan to document my adventure with my re-restoration here, and I'm sure I will be looking for advice, also comments and tips will be very welcomed. Cheers, Mike

Removal of the panel generally makes access to the filler tube easier, might also help in accessing the small vent lines in that area when getting the tank back in. BTW - removal of the panel usually requires removal of the RR tire so its up to you as to the amount of work you want all of it to be.

Slightly delayed because of holday season and the current COVID situation, but i just got some pictures from the blaster, and a note that the chassis is done. They blasted the whole car with non abrasive plastic media, which doesnt warp big thin surfaces. Where abrasives were needed, they added a bit of sand to remove rust and bondo (partially). The sticker underbody protecting-stuff was removed by dry-ice blasting... You can clearly see the many repairs on the inner front fender and Air channel and the ton of bondo remaining on the LH rear quarter. Luckily the engine bay looks nice at the first view, but i have to inspect closer once it's back at my place. This is the side that has already been finnished by the bodyshop (the brown stuff is remaining seam sealer...) this is the undone side. Luckily i have a NOS spare roof and rear quarter in stock to fix this. Meanwhile the chassis should also be primered with a weldable primer. In the next days they will return it to me and then i'll take some better pictures and a closer look at all the details... Just a little tip from my side. If you ever do a full restoration like this. start with cleaning the chassis. not like me who started with the bodywork just to blast the chassis when half of it was already done. well you learn new things all th e time - and that's what makes a project like this so much fun 🙂 More coming soon....

Not a Z or a Datsun, might be pretty fast. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-detomaso-pantera-26/

Not a Z or a Datsun, probably not very quick (0.8 liter engine) but kind of neat. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-honda-s800-coupe/

Agreed. Biggest mistake that the BLM made was not to treat this seriously. I would bet that with the change of atmosphere over the past four years, it would be handled differently today.

I think they're plan was the same as Trumps. No real plan but If you won't let me win, I'll fix it so no one can play the game.

I will post up some video of the old bearing later, it does make some odd noises like a vibration when spun (still has the old grease in it, I know better to spin a dry bearing). the stub axle went in as well as could be hope for. all night in the freezer, then a space heater on the hub (not too hot of course, prob about 110f), it dropped right thru the 1st bearing and with some light hand pressure it popped thru the second. So now on to tighten up process I will reinstall the tire and with the flat on the ground will use the new torque wrench to factory spec. After that I will be on familiar ground (reinstall the assembled strut). The other side I think I will just start with the strut removal.

This has been discussed here previously. The car was in Japan, and was never shipped to the USA.

Thank you @Racer X 🙏

well that turned into a cluster REAL FAST. the issue as the dang grease seal. it was not coming out, normally I can pop them out with out resorting to a "seal puller tool" guess I was wrong about that. anyway I was beginning to question the whole idea of trying to do this on my back so I went ahead and pulled the spindle pin and removed the entire strut assembly. I was finally able to get the seal out with a slide hammer and drywall screw after several attempts. from there. I stub axle was removed before pulling the strut with a slide hammer, a couple good wacks and it was out. I drove out the inner bearing using the cast in notches in the housing, a bearing puller was used on the outer bearing (it stayed with the stub axle). Since I had the strut out I used the press to install the bearings and new grease seal after lubing up all the needed spots. So now the stub axle with no bearings on it is in the freezer for the night. the 100 watt bulb is gently heating up the housing, I will check on it later to maker sure its not cooking out the grease by getting too hot. if all goes well I will hopefully drop in the stub axle, at least far in enough to get a shot at fitting the splines of the companion flange lined up. From there I will press on the companion flange and the outer side of the hub where the wheel studs are installed. if it does not get that far I will just have to hunt up some pipe that will let me press on the inner race of the inner bearing until I can get enough of the shaft thru the bearings to engage the companion flange. I am trying to make sure that the pressure to pull the axle shaft into preload position is all done with out any pressure to the balls or races of the bearing.

Pretty proud of how these vintage SK throttle bodies came out. All new zinc, shafts and butterfly’s. I can’t wait for them to sing on my 3.1L

The brake & gas lines are done, I widened the exhaust pipe hole in the rear cross member and the Ermish Racing exhaust pipes arrived as well as the DBX Flowmaster muffler. I bought the DBX separately because I've used them before and I think they have richer sound than the Super HP that Ermish sells. I was ordering a few more rubber parts from http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-510-parts.html that I missed on my first order and notice the Roll Center Adjusters/ Bump Steer Spacers they sell, they're $35 per set! That's a 1/3rd the price of everyone else, I ordered a set and they are quality pieces, 10.9 grade bolts and they fit perfectly. So there is no more avoiding it, time to put the mask and ear protection on and start making a mess.

The fringe groups this year are giving a new extreme definition to the word "crazy." It strains credulity to believe that anyone can be stupid or deluded enough (or both) to believe this crap.

If the L24 is still ok and servicable, I would put it back together and run it like that until you know what you want to do. Like @Zed Head said, doing one mod without the other will not do much, but empty your wallet. I'd drive it around for a while, enjot it, and think about what you want from the engine. Then gather all the parts for an engine project. You could use the L26 as a starting point. I think the biggest buss for your money is a lightened flywheel. It doesn't add any horsepower, but it certainly gives a standard engine kick in the a$$ response. Very revvy and a little touches at the traffic lights, but managable once you get use to it. My wife keeps stalling mine, but then she refuses to drive it because it's got no power steering, no power windows, no power mirrors, blue tooth or navigation, this list goes on. Looks like you are having fun restoring it so far. It's your project, so you can do what you want when you. Just my 2 eurocents.

Yeah, that doesn't sound good. I don't think I would toss up as much of an urgent "don't go on any long trips" as SteveJ did, but you should get to that in the near future. Many people (including myself) have switched over to the ZX style nuts for the stub axles. Photo courtesy of Blue:

Looks nice. Your Z will be one to be proud of, for sure.

...trying so hard to hold it together here.... such optimism! I love it when people have plans to be done "ina few months" for "a few thousand dollars at most..." While I am 6 years and $45,000 into my $10,000 6 month restoration...! One can dream I suppose!! I wish the OP all the best and hope it works out for him.

She is heading up for body and paint tomorrow, don't know what I'm going to do with an empty shop.

Ooooooooh BABY! I am pumped. I'll take some better pics tomorrow.

Yes I'll have to come up with something like that, there is lots of room in front of the rad for an airbox just no room for a 3"dia air tube to get past the rad unless I cut through the fender again I have started work on the exhaust system, I have never welded stainless steel before and man it's a bit of a pain, completely different animal then carbon steel. Hard as a chisel, heats up really fast, hangs on to that heat, burns through if you don't use the lightest touch but sure cleans up nice. I could not run a bead on this thin walled tubing without having blobs form inside and narrowing the passage so had to do a series of short tack welds with a couple of seconds between each one so I wouldn't break through. After some grinding,

I found the mother lode stink, the car has had no glass, doors, hatch or fabric in it for over 5 months but still reeks of mouse wizz, I discovered why today, So I cut 2 access holes in the tops of the fresh ducts so I can get a vacuum cleaner in there and have an escape for air and acid when the car gets dipped. Here I have cut out the crossmember attachment plates and the rotten fender above them. The plates are 12 ga and the inside fender skin is 20ga. Instead of trying to recreate the original crossmember plate I will probably make up 2 patches of 12ga, one on the wheel side and one on the engine bay side that will overlap and give some real strength for the shock tower. ``Don`t bother fixing that, just cover it up, he`ll never know``