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He used the screwdriver to activate the starter solenoid by putting it across the small tab to the big + battery connection, bypassing the ignition switch. If the electric fuel pump is in the stock location behind the tank, it will prime itself.

The original Q plate:

LOL. Commitment issues. Here's what I did: After I got the original peened nuts off, I completely removed the shoulder where the peening was originally located. I cut mine off in a lathe, but you could do the same thing with a file or grinding wheel. The end result was a "test nut" that I could install and remove any number of times without damage to anything. Using test nuts, I could put everything together and make sure it all worked the way I wanted it to. Here's what my nuts look like: Then when I was completely convinced everything was done right, I took the test nuts off for the last time and replaced with the one-time-use ZX nuts.

Is this "meta"? Still trying to get a good grasp on that word..

I can help plated hood latch parts if you’d like...

Well, I won. But it took more than a flat head and it pretty much destroyed the female side of the latch... Oh well!

See photo. Engine hoist. Cargo straps. Bath towels wrapped around engine hoist boom arm and hatch to protect hatch paint and glass. With one set of cargo straps centred vertically and another centred horizontally, and using the cross-over point as the lift location, the hatch was pretty well balanced for a flat lift. I trimmed it out by adding small weights (socket wrench sockets) as required on the hatch surface. This wasn't so important during removal, but it was very important during re-installation in order to get the hinge bolt holes to line up.

1976. Just "Readjust as required", but still specifying three ranges to hit, all at the same time.

It is my understanding that the torque spec is the same with the 280zx nut. Someone, perhaps the Captain, can confirm. The difference is not that it's an earlier car, but that it is an earlier car with the copper washer installed that goes between the bearing and companion flange that makes the difference in torque spec. I suspect the thickness of the washer changes things.

The hissing noise is probably fuel passing through the fuel pressure regulator. That's good. If the engine does not turn over the first thing to check is the yellow wire at the starter solenoid. There is much discussion about it in that other thread. The screwdriver trick will bypass the start switch and supply power directly to the solenoid. You'll see some sparks and hear the solenoid click if you do it right. If the engine is not locked up it should turn over. You can also make your own "remote start switch" with a piece of wire. Run it from the battery positive post or the end of the cable at the starter and touch the other end to the place where the yellow wire connects. The starter should get power and turn the engine over. Be careful when you do these things because you'll be next to the car and if it's in gear it will move.

The main function of the choke cables is to pull the nozzles down, richening the mixture but the linkage also opens the butterflies a bit. That allows more air into the mixture and raises the idle RPMs. The nozzles shouldn't stick. Try lubing them first if that doesn't work check the nozzle linkage alignment. You may have to twist the linkage (circled in red, above) to be sure the mating surfaces on each end are parallel to their attachment points.

Well I missed you on that one! Got a couple of windows open... Here's what Mark is talking about I think.

I bought these a few years ago from my local dealership. They will have to order them but it seems like they were there in a day or two. Call the parts department and read off the numbers 16356-25610. They'll punch them in and tell you if they are still available. My guy told me the reason they still carry these was for Nissan forklifts.

Just to add another wrinkle, I have the "noise-insulating" copper washer which calls for a reduced torque spec. 94 - 123 ft-lb.

Great, it would seem the needles, pistons and domes are in good shape. Earlier you mentioned the choke not working on one carb.There are a couple of things that will cause the nozzle to bind up. The fuel hose to the nozzle needs to be ultra flexible. Ztherapy sells silicone hoses. The other problem can be the linkage that pulls the nozzle down and pushes it up. Over time, the flat-bar linkage can warp a bit causing the nozzle to bind up. The carb will have to be removed to check the linkage alignment. Check to see that both ends of the linkage are parallel to their mounting surfaces and lube the outer surface of the nozzles before assembly. Another thing to check is the float levels. The float level is the primary mixture adjustment. You'll definitely need a Uni Syn for balancing the carbs.

Yes it's red.. but for anyone.. next time, take a good look at these 2 possebility's, the bolts in blue can take more than one position, the 2 bolts/screws in red always will go to the central position, so those are safe to take off. With doors it's also the bolt in the door you can safely take off..

The videos are essentially just pictures. Nothing happens in them. When you say "turn over" do you mean start or fire? Or do you mean the engine does not spin when you turn the key to Start? Usually the word "crank": is used to talk about the engine crankshaft spinning, and "fire" is used to talk about spark causing combustion. "Turn over" means crank. Crank, spark, fire. iscnetwork had a similar problem. Read that thread. Probably just a connection that has opened up.

I was kind of joking. If you had a beam type wrench you'd see the deflection when the crimps hit and could just add it on. It's probably about 10 ft-lbs added to the 200+ spec.

So I had mentioned above that if you are going to do the split collar perch support concept, you need to pay attention to the collar size. This is what happens when you impulse buy 2" collars for your 280Z because you assumed they were the right size. They aren't. The 2" collars are too small and won't fit around the 55mm (2.165) diameter 280Z tubes: Not wanting to admit defeat, I aligned the collars and chucked them up in the lathe and bored them out to fit the 280 strut tubes. Looked like this on the lathe: In the end, I had to take off so much material that they got a little Swiss-cheesie, but good enough for the temporary use that I plan for them. Would have been better to start out with 2 1/8 collars instead of 2". I would still have had to bore them out some, but not as much and they wouldn't be quite so holy: But in the end, here's what the bored out collar looks like on the 280 tube. Should be "good enough." :

Red.

You are most welcome chap - glad the musings of a madman had some value.

Glad to help. I might have a few spares I could part with... They are easy to open and clean up.

The 280ZX used a distorted thread prevailing torque type nut. Pic. Thanks Blue!!

Did someone forget to start a "What I Did To My Z Today" for 2020? *Edit* Never mind. Didn't see it way down below all the pinned threads. Carry on, nothing to see here.

Run the stock Datsun PCV system. It works, very, very well. The crankcase breather Tube connects to the PCV Valve at the bottom of the Intake manifold. It has a built in oil baffle and screen inside the block. It is very effective at catching and separating oil droplets. The Vent on top of the Valve cover goes to the stock Air cleaner. The hose to the Air Cleaner plays a more important part than people often realise. The Arrington CCV Bible article explains why. You should always run an operational PCV system on a street car. Failure to do so will cause fairly quick contamination of the oil via ring blowby, acid accumulation in the oil due to water condensation not being removed effectively by Vent To Atmosphere systems. Increased oil leaks from seals and gaskets due to the fact that you will be running a higher positive crankcase pressure with out a PCV valve. And often over looked. You get increased Ring seal by running a PCV system compared to a VTA system. If you like, you can run a closed Catch can system between the Block breather hose and the PCV Valve. But it must be a sealed or " recirculating " Catch Can system. That means no Vent on top of the Catch can. Doing so renders the PCV system virtually inoperative and you are back to a VTA system. Which should not be run on a Daily Driver.. Race cars are a different deal for several reasons: 1: The oil is changed much more regularly than a street car. Professional Road Race cars may change oil after every race. Contaminants would never have a chance to build up as in a street car. 2: Race cars, particularly Circuit racers, run long enough and hot enough to burn off any water condensation that will forms acids and sludge in the oil. Short drives to the 7/11 on a Daily driver don't get hot enough to burn off the water condensation. That is the job of the PCV system. 3: Circuit race cars usually run a Dry Sump system for oiling. The scavenge pumps create a negative pressure in the even at High RPM. This is very effective at increasing ring seal. Nascar engines have seen HP gains all the way up to 20 in/hg vacuum in the block. This CCV article from Arrington Performance explains the functions and benefits of proper Cranck case Ventilation. Which on street cars is provided by the PCV system: Arrington CCV Bible.pdf

Hi Bart - Alan VanGundy here - previous owner of your '71 before it crossed the pond! It's great to have found you and hear these updates on "my" 240! As a couple other members noted, I had the car for sale locally but ended up selling it to Stolze on Ebay. When the car left on an auto transport to the Netherlands, I figured it was the last time I would see it or hear of it. Small world indeed! I had found pictures of it on Stolze's website but I'm glad to learn it has found a permenant home. I was on these forums regularly when I owned the Z but haven't been around much since selling it. Imagine my surprise today when I found your comment on the Youtube video and finding this thread on Classic Z. I imagine it might have equaled your surprise when you found YOUR 240 on Youtube! Anyway, I have owned several "classic" cars and always appreciated knowing their history so I'm glad you received the paperwork I sent along with the car. I'll be happy to chat with you more and share comments on the car. Alan V.