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The only way I will lift my 83 ZX is by the center of the front crossmember behind the oil pan or the differential housing in back. I use the front frame arms as jackstand points and the attachment points for the rear suspension for jackstands in back. I've done this for 30 years of ownership and never bent anything. I did the same with my 1970 240Z, my 1976 280Z, and my 1982 280ZX. No damage to any of them. Lifting by the floor pans would incline me to have a totally uncharacteristic moment of rage and CHEW THE arse off the person who tried it. Not acceptable today, tomorrow, or any other time. There are good options that don't cause damage, and it doesn't take a MENSA member to find them.

You might swap your rear wheels for the fronts while you have things apart. See if the wobble follows the wheels. Of course, then you won't know if it's the TC rod upgrade or the wheels. Maybe take a for a test then swap if it's still there.

Zed, There should be 4 on a 75. The fourth is a coolant Temp switch which could be placed on the side of the housing or in the front.

Count me in.

The COVID is giving people lots of free time to spend their money on the internet. That is a nice looking example of the $199 package. Odd that it came with a 4 speed though, I thought that the 5 speed was standard and the 4 speed was a requested change.

I am saddened that my beloved hobby has gotten this way. When I fell in love with the S30 40 years ago, a huge part of the allure was that they were affordable. I could buy rusty S30's as parts cars and make a pretty nice car for very little money. 11 years ago, I bought a 260Z out of a barn and made a race car out of it. I paid $450 for the car and it was really solid overall. The floors and rails were in very good shape and it just had some rust in the battery tray area and at the bottom of the rear quarters from mouse droppings that had accumulated over the many years it was stored. Within just a few years, I could no longer afford replace that car should it be wrecked on track. A similar condition body today would be nearly 10 times what I paid for my 260. Every time I go on the track I risk writing off my car. If and when that happens, it won't get replaced and I will likely never race another Z. I for one don't like that prices have gone through the roof. I'm happy for those of you that have beautiful Z cars that are increasing in value by the day. Guy's collection, for example, is rightfully worth a ton of money. It's the low end car value increase that I dislike.

Well guys, I appreciate all your help. I was waiting for my oil pump to show up before I attempted the timing again. It showed up on Friday and I got started on timing Saturday morning. I did everything that was recommended and now it is sitting nicely at 10 degrees timing. I just adjusted the shaft until my the rotor was pointing as close to the #1 electrode as I could get it. Then I adjusted the optical sensor so it was directly over a slot in the shutter. Fired it up and checked timing and now everything is great. It's running pretty good, but my carbs are a bit out of wack now. I attempted to use my color tune, but I have never been able to get that tool to work reliably, so once I finish reupholstering my seats this week I am going to get it out and do some street tuning. Once again, thanks alot guys!

The engine bay does have that “post 75” look doesn’t it? If the head is an N47 rather than the expected N42 on a 75, then.... With the many years of history, who knows what parts have been substituted in. The only concern I have is the plastic fuel filter back by the tank, but only if its on the output side of the pump. If its between the tank and the pump inlet, it’s under no pressure (vacuum actually) and should be fine. If its there, then there has to be another proper high pressure EFI filter under the hood between the Body hard line from the tank and fuel rail at the front right of the engine. Heat soak is rarely an issue with EFI engines. I’m leaning on the ignition module failure as the likely cause. Or coil, or distributor pickup heat related failure.

We would need to do some experimenting. Let me know when you're up for it.

Now you all know I love to machine stuff but it occurs to me maybe taking an old crank gear and grinding flats on it would be an easier way to go.

I AGREE 100%

I drove around, I did almost 300miles... I was supposed to just go for a drive, then get some coffee with the girlfriend. I ended up driving into San Francisco and up to Point Reyes. Was a good little shakedown for the Z. there was a little fumes in the cabin after replacing the hatch seal. Found that it has shifted in the corner, I reglued it down. the girlfriend says it’s much more quiet inside the cabin. This week I’ll finish off installing the fan/blower.

I said wrench, not "wench". Thanks for the data. I'll make sure my opposing flats are within that range. I had already started aiming at 2", but since your wrench will go bigger, I might too. Less metal to remove.

Here are some pics of the bottom under the stainless trim. It looks like there was a plastic piece that had sticky tape to hold it in place. It looks like it went on first then the windscreen gets glued in after. there are some bulges that look to hold the stainless on every few centimeters. The piece is notched so it can make the arc of the windscreen and breaks very easy, It is also weather checked. I did get a small piece of it out for the pics. The ends have a locating pin that sits under the side trim. It looks like there was something like it on the top as well. It is also sealed in with silicone or some other adhesive. No bumps on the top but it had the butterfly clips as noted above.

UPDATE: I spoke with the owner Dave and he told me that just minutes after he posted his listing on Craigslist that he had numerous phone calls for days that were not only located in all parts of the US, but also from Europe. He insisted that the six 240Zs be sold as a package and he had multiple parities bidding on the 240Zs. A gentleman from California was the winning bidder and he flew to Spokane to meet the seller, inspect the cars and see that all 6 cars were loaded on the carrier company's truck. The seller also mentioned that the new owner already owns a few 240Zs and is very passionate about 240Zs and plans to restore an keep all six of the cars. The seller also told me that the two 260Zs and the all 280Zs and 280ZXs were all still available.

The underside looks good, yes, but this car was also, - as many many others - abused on a 2 column, YOU CAN'T LIFT A CAR LIKE THAT! Sorry but those front lift points should not lift a car there.. (those points can NOT take the whole front car weight) I use a 4 colomn and always under the axle lift the car. If there is no 4 colomn lift use or make yourself (!) some bars to lift the car under the axles.. Once (a few years ago) a APK (Like an MOT only dutch) technician tried to do this with my perfect nissan 300zxtt and i almost had to kick him in the **** to stop him! It has the same just steel sheet beams there.. and you will ruin the car if you lifted it there for sure! (a nissan 300zxtt weighs 1630 kg.. a lot of pounds haha yeah about 3585 Lbs) That technician is no longer in that shop.. luckely i ALWAYS stay at the garage that is checking my car.. If i can't? there will be no work on my car!

Just another quick update. The Z is almost on the road, I had few minor electrical issues and I'm currently waiting for a new brake master vac. My new seats finally came in from Japan after waiting almost 2 months due to Covid-19.

Very nice result. Your perseverance really paid off. Whether we like it or not, stuff done on the underside of a restoration matters only to the faithful. Come up short on the paint or the interior, though, and everybody notices it.

The covid crisis apparently gives me too much time to browse the online classifieds for nice stuff. so i stumbled upon a german Ex-nissan dealer who had a lot of old manuals for sale. Luckily he had a set of Transmission manuals for the 240Z for sale. I own a FS5C71A transnmission but he only had the B-type and Automatic transmission manuals. But the price was great and they're rare to come by. Especially the german language ones (for automatic at least), so i thought i'd grab them to put them in my knowledge collection. maybe they'll come in handy at some point. I also have plans to update my big transmission knowledge post whenever i find time and motivation. More stuff is on the way, so stay tuned ?