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Wheee! - Thanks for the details needed for modifying the bracket. That'll make the job much easier! btw: Very nice pics above. I'm up to page 73 of your thread! AK - Yep, good advice. Planning to make dramatic changes to the entire harness while it's out. First will be wire gauge upgrades where needed. I'm actually working right now on a wiring diagram to add features (low oil level, low coolant level, additional sensor wiring for MegaSquirt, electric power steering, carjack shutdown, taking all high loads off stock switches and running them through relays, etc., etc. I'm adding fuses for the loads as well as the relay coils, and replacing the fusible links with circuit breakers. I figure if something shuts down on some cold night while it's pouring down rain, all I have to do is find which discrete circuit is the problem. It means I'm adding a lot of fuses, which I plan to locate under the passenger seat. That of course means I need to be able to easily move the fuse panels or seat so I can service them. Haven't decided to make them slide out from under the seat or hinge the seat out of the way. Either way, I'm fabbing new parts

Soft surfaces are hard to media blast. If it will come off with a pressure washers I would do that

I had a huge mouse nest in mine on the right side. The drain is rather large and empties out directly on the inside of the fender thus all the corrosion in that area on every S30 made.

Hello everyone, i recently brought home my 260z( on a trailer) and am ready to try and get her running again. Car has sat for 10 years and has the original flat tops with everything else stock. The plan is to do the following: order a pair of SU’s from z therapy, new plugs and wires, battery etc. I was planning on keeping the existing balance tube as I’m not concerned with how things will look, but would like to know if this will function the same as a 240 tube if things are plugged up properly? Also z therapy offers a conversion plate that would allow me to use the 260 air cleaner and I wonder if anyone has had luck with this. If anyone has suggestions/recommendations on these parts before I start purchasing would greatly appreciate. I am definitely not a mechanic but want to learn and do as much as I can. I will have the help of someone who knows a lot more than me. thanks in advance, this forum rocks!

I would start by putting each cars needs on paper and and then comparing things cost wise. I tend to lean towards the purist side. And since the red car being a early 71' and is considered a series 2, I think needs to be kept with its original parts as much as possible. It seems to have had more attention than the white car. 240's in original (or close to original) are getting harder to find. Of course I can't see how much work each one needs, so I'm basing it purely on just the few pictures you've posted. It's just my opinion, but pulling good parts from the red car for the white car is kind of flowing backwards, so to speak, Others my disagree. You can sill source badging, interior and engine parts so why not just rebuild The white one has already been "changed" with the L28 swap and is already in need of a lot of cleaning up. I think you can more free to do more with it and not hurt the value. Both seem like a good starting point. You are very lucky. By the way, your spare L28 looks to be from a 78'

It might. I will need four boxes that are about 3 x 4 each plus one box for the relays that will be about 4 x 9. It's a lot of real estate. I started off planning to buy the fuse panels and making the relay box using typical Bosch style relays bc they are ubiquitous and cheap. Then I found the mini(?) or micro(?) relays made to plug into fuse boxes - they are a lot smaller. Searching for these parts could be a full-time job for the hours needed to find the right bits. I couldn't imagine doing the searches if we weren't in lockdown. Every night and weekend would be fully consumed. Since I will be removing some old relays from under the dash, there may be room in that area, but I am sort of expecting there won't. The problem is my car is 100% disassembled so I can't fit check anything, but I know the space under the seat works. I kinda like the idea of a pull-out panel, not so keen on flipping the seat up.

At the risk of stating the obvious, don’t forget all those charts are showing alternator rpm and if you are using stock crank pulley at 150mm and stock alt pulley are 75ish, your alternator is spinning twice your rev counter speed. One other consideration which I’m sure you’ve thought about is to upgrade the wiring to cope with 140amps. In the real world your alt will not be pumping out 140amps constantly unless you have a flat battery and revving hard. But your 40+ year old wiring rated for a 40A alternator with headroom won’t be man enough - the last thing you want is a car-b-q! Although your fusible link “should” blow before that happens. I had my 280zx alt rewound for 90A. Rather than replacing the wiring, I doubled it up by running a parallel cable back to the battery with its own fuse. That way you avoid running silly large cables under the bonnet.

I think very little scares you... SASSZ says hi...!

@SoCalJim been pulling together a listing of some of the options that are available. Will be adding to it over the next could of days. Will try to add more about ride quality, but its pretty subjective based on the driver. One that seems to get a lot of play if you are looking for a street setup are the MSA Eibachs. A few guys around the forum have recommended those to me as well as looking into swapping to the 240z isolators. I have the impression that my 280z runs high where 1 inch would not be enough. But that might just be in my head haha. I would love to get something like this setup. I love the lines on this photo, but I can't imagine that this guy doesn't rub all time in an urban environment. @Zed Head Yeah, I looked around for backup info on those shocks around the forums and their website, but couldn't find anything. Maybe they forgot to upload it?

Muahahaha -haha ??? Bottom looks better than I thought .... I guess there is a LOT of new metal already It's a little bottom heavy so I might need to raise it a little bit tomorrow. ?? So I am tempted to drag it outside and pressure wash the bottom before bead blasting. Maybe dry it with a leaf blower? Any thoughts?

Excellent! Glad to help, and hope the rest of it goes smooth!

That's on my "to do" list but not at this moment. Wanna keep stock for now (surprisingly ! lol)

Get a Pallnet rail! Then you can swap out to 11mm or 14mm injectors with similar flow rates and resistance. I am running supra 310cc injectors in a Pallnet 11mm rail. SASSZ says hi...!

Been away for a minute guys. Thanks for the good info Dave WM. The engine is free and was able to turn over. The gas tank was empty so hopefully this helped with rust issues.(it evaporated or that’s why I couldn’t get it to start a few years back lol) ordered a bunch of stuff from z store and a pair of round top carbs from z therapy. Going to check all brake and fuel lines and replace shoes, pads and bushings and ball joints on front end. Took a few pics and going to get done what I can in my free time. thanks again all

The clutch is working! https://youtu.be/dVW8Qbv8208

Regardless what you think of Pence , he basically disrespected every scientist and doctor at the Mayo Clinic by disregarding their policy . I expected this from Donny, but Pence - no . Once again the messages are mixed or contradictory from the WH and that why we aren’t doing better . Let’s tell the people what they can or can’t do for the betterment of their health , and do just the opposite.

How does being "effeminate" (in your opinion) have a negative impact on his work?

Ahh yes, of course, how could I have missed that. I know, it's because I was imagining myself driving that thing on a warm summer morning, early before everyone is awake, on a great winding road going nowhere, and with no traffic lights! I'm easily distracted.

You will need to shorten your mount for the 12si. My thread has a lot info on this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Definitely gets the most compliments of any of my Z cars.

And the big day has arrived. Dyno tuning completed. Big thank you to Jimmy Bailey and all the crew at VEX that made this day worthwhile.

I am a bad boy. Have not updated this thread for far too long. Shame shame. I'm nearing the end of the voyage. It has been frought with problems, big surprise, but the car is now running well enough to get it to my friends shop for a dyno tune next week. Plan on taking it to Vancouver for their All Japanese show on the 25th. You'll have to be satisfied with a few pictures for now.

Yes, mine were so brittle they were crumbling as I pulled them off, I got this tip off of @240260280 head to a pick and pull auto yard, look for Audi and VW cars, they have connectors that fit our injectors. I got these from two Pasats 2000-2008 4 cylinder, I removed the 4 th injector plug and grafted them into the harness, think I paid $10, that Pasat also has the same plugs to fit all of the other sensors.

Careless, this is a pretty interesting thread, and I am just amazed by your effort. I have some pictures for this topic, NOS tail panels with lamps on Yahoo auction rigt now (aprox.5000USD for reserve) and hub caps which were installed on topy wheels with Skyline GTR.( wheels were exactly same as S30 and many other cars) The caps are now on sale for 1000-1500 USD ! And my Z432 at an auto show in 2007 just after the restoration had been completed, my car had a set of NOS tail light panels . Looks like tail panels lighter than topy wheels when new. The wheels were not only for S30 series,topy did not make wheels for specificaly for S30 series. On the other hand, tail light panels were only desined for S30 series. Mr.Matsuo said the design teem wanted somthing special, they came to an idea ''sanding paper feeling'' for the rear panels. Hope this helps, Kats