Leaderboard

Hi ,I missed this thread. The fake is a nice try , but it has to be described as "reproduction " . Here are my D caps comparison I believe I posted some where in this forum before. Later more teeth type is a bit darker gray but it is so subtle . Kats

Don't go there. It's a dark place.

Klassic Fab has been manufacturing quality VW Bus floor replacements for years and has recently started manufacturing floor pans and frame rails, etc for 240Zs and for other vintage Japanese cars. Here's their website: https://kfvintagejdm.com/ Pictures courtesy of The 240z Guild.

It's been a while since my last post. I finally got the Z back mid January and made some progress. Brake lines complete and suspension installed Engine bay harness installed. I still have to figure out the engine bay relay's as they did not come with the car for some reason. Trying out this new window gasket from Spaenaur #825-065 as my Z did not have any of those "S" clips that attach to the OEM fender rubber seals. I decided to go with wider Watanabe's 15X9 -13 rear and 15x8.5 -6 front and run the marugen shoukai fender flares as I'm not happy how my rear quarter panels ended up. The painter messed up the body line and the inner lip of the rear quarter is full of filler. Plan is to get the differential in this weekend and doors. If anyone is interested I have my Watanabe 15x7 for sale, shoot me a pm for details.

Hi Kats, Thank you for your response, I really appreciate it! By the way, your Z is beautiful! Steve

Sorry... I'm baaaaaaack. But this time it's actually with some useful input! I just snipped this from the 78 FSM (MT-18). Not sure if the other years contained this info (assuming not, or you would have simply found it and not asked in the first place), but this should answer most questions about the gear tooth counts: In 80 they they started messing around with the ratios, but this should hold for everything up to and including 79.

Cleaning up the engine electrical harness here. There was the usual dirt and oil, but also some orange overspray that had to be re-moved. Replaced most of the terminals and yellowed covers with new terminals and covers from vintage connections: http://www.vintageconnections.com/. Also, re-wrapped the harness with new tape.

Common misconception I believe. All the trans I've looked at have a 4th gear pair, just like any other gear. The only thing that is 'special' about the 4th gear set is that its ratio acts as a modifier to all the other gear set raw tooth pair ratios, since the drive power goes through the 4th gear set first, for all gears, all the time. It's only a matter of which of the lock up hubs (on each gear set) is engaged to the main shaft that determines the power path. The counter shaft is engaged and spinning all the time, and since all if its gears are engaged to the gears on the main shaft, THEY are spinning all the time too (except 5th), though they may all be free from the main shaft (if in neutral) or any one of them is engaged (and only one!), which then drives the main shaft at that gears ratio. The confusion comes because for 4th, it's special because when its main shaft gear is locked to the mainshaft, power goes straight through the main shaft WITHOUT first going down to the counter shaft (at the 4th gear ratio) then back up to the main shaft (through that gear's ratio) through the selected gear set. That's why its ratio is automatically 1:1 no matter what the 4th gear tooth ratio is. Hope that's clear as 25 year old GL-4 fluid.....

Made progress today. Oil pan and oil pump installed. I had a bunch of stuff Powder-coated (intake manifold, thermostat housings and some small brackets and bits and pieces). They should be here in a few days. I’ve also adjusted all the intake valves to the cold setting. I’ll do the exhaust tomorrow. I also have two ZX distributors that I’m going to clean up and check out (I think I found a write-up for rebuilding those). After some close inspection I’ll make the determination but they need to clean up for sure.

Inner rockers, and I see outer rockers too. Is there finally an alternative to the tabco rockers? Nice to see another replacement panel source come on the scene.

I like my amp meter. :) upgrade to a amp meter :) I love that word upgrade, I hear it so often when talking about old cars.

One thing to keep in mind is there is significant parallax error when viewing the gauge since it's over there on the side and you're not looking at it square. I find mine "accurate when viewed from the driving position", but if I look at it "straight on", my battery voltage appears to be low. I've decided that since I'm most often looking at it from the driving position, I'm going to keep it that way. Makes me wonder if maybe they calibrated them like that on purpose.

From what I gather there are adjustments on the back of all the gauges - ducks for cover as he awaits being corrected, without mercy or compassion! I will be messing with the Rev counter soon as it’s about 10% optimistic across the range. The 123 ignition while cruising tells me this; and I’m more inclined to believe it than a 40+ year old analogue gauge. Back on topic, I was quite surprised to find that what I considered very small variations in standing voltage at room temperature show a dramatic difference in the state of charge / the health of the battery. The AGM battery used in my Audi with stop/start, I always felt was no longer at it’s best and you can watch the voltage drop quite quickly as you stop at the lights - yet it does start the car on the coldest of winter days. With the engine off she holds 12.3-12.2v, which to me says for the stop/star to work as intended, she needs replacing- see chart below. So my advice is disconnect the battery, check voltage when not cold or hot as well as checking the calibration of your gauge. My Z gauge shows a standing voltage of 12.5ish - but then again the battery is two years old, is disconnected ( using the battery isolator) every time the car is not in use and lives in a heated garage.

OK Boomer

Well blow off the dust ?

The brake caliper bolt is the one for who wants to restore it properly. And is this a small dish able to be used for tension rod ? You can see the part number is different from the original. 54537-21003 is the original part number , I have 54537- 41L00 . I found I have twenty of them in my stash , too much . These parts are going to someone who can buy a DINO 246 for me . Kats

Hi , the green Z432 was ( still is ? ) for sale at 2150 0000 JPY when I heard about it . Lack of some original parts , and need to have proper size tires for stock appearances . Kats

Yes, the block is painted. DE1651 Cast Coat Iron from Duplicolor. I didn’t really like the look of the Datsun turquoise blue, I thought it clashed with the red engine compartment. Blasphemy to some of the Datsun hardliners but it’s a 77, not a series 1 collector car. I really like the look of this block color. I have a red powder coated valve cover and I think the colors go well together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

shhhhhh dont let all the secrets out, it wont be fun reading old threads then.

For marking or confirming the damper pulley I Ike the method of marking a certain distance down on both sides of ~TDC then splitting the difference to mark zero. The crankshaft can move a few degrees at TDC with almost zero indicator movement because the rod end is moving almost sideways. Don't you trust your damper pulley marks? You don't need to be super accurate for installing the head or timing chain.