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Found an ad for it here using all the same pictures... I think this is a scam. If you think otherwise, ask for a photo of it with them holding a banana or something ridiculous to prove they have it. https://carbuzz.com/news/someone-stuffed-a-corvette-v8-in-this-old-datsun-240z

I merged the topics. No need to have multiple posts on this same subject. Good luck.. Mike

Blue , the top red LY is owned by Mr. Akamatsu , me and him were a member of the group which were invited to the ZCON 2000 Las Vegas and 2004 Long Beach LA with our own Zs . Only very few people were realizing that is a special engine . Also I have told the Mikuni 50s were pulled from the works rally car in Safari. Kats

I haven't been keeping up with the names of the people whose threads I post in. But I'm pretty sure that I already mentioned that the position of the oil pump does not really matter for starting. I think you have 2 or 3 threads about the same problem, right? You should just stick with one thread. Here's a couple of things. #1 is always #1. You don't have to find it, it's the first one at the front of the engine. Take the valve cover off and rotate the engine until the two cam lobes point up, but slightly off to the driver's side (the engine is tilted jonbill, you knew that...). That will put #1 very close to TDC. Then use your chopsticks and get the piston as close as you can to the top of the bore, if you don't have any of the correct tools. Then mess around with the oil pump and the distributor drive quill (shaft) until the tang looks like the picture that siteunseen often posts. Your other picture was way off. Then with the piston still at TDC, reinstall the distributor and put the rotor on. Find the distributor cap terminal that the rotor points at. That is where your #1 plug wire goes. Install that wire then install the rest in counterclockwise order, 1-5-3-6--2-4. Make up a tab of some kind so you can use the damper mark for timing, ypu need to know at least close to where zero is. Even if it's not exactly at zero, you will be able to adjust the timing to about 5-10 degrees before zero. It should start. Just one way to try...

I've been giving a lot of thought to this car and with the girlfriend off visiting with daughters I have a rare opportunity to chime in on a weekend. This is a VERY NICE Z indeed. It appears to me to be completely original, all 4 tie downs, except for the missing air filter housing decals. Two very positive, in my view, aspects. One, no add-on A/C. Two, It looks like it wasn't undercoated. Yes, your honor, I undercoated lots and lots of Datsuns of every stripe during my dealer days. Why not, we got paid 3 tenths of an hour labor for every one we coated and, in a perverted way, it was a bit of fun.. We're going to see more such Zs in the future due to a syndrome I call Aging Out and this car is a perfect example. Over the almost 40 years I've been in business I've been lucky to include in my customer base a large number of original owner cars. The owners of these cars are now almost to a man, no women in my group but I'm confident they exist, well into their 70s and beyond. In the last few weeks I've been contacted by a couple of these chaps or their relations about the best way to sell their Zs. I've also heard from a reliable source of other such situations. No, I'm not going to tell anyone about the details as I keep such conversations private but I think you get my point. I don't remember why I did this but when I had one of these originals on my greasy hands I took lots of pictures and wrote lots of notes. I've been lucky to have restored a few unmolested cars and of course did the picture and note thing for those projects. I can assure you there is nothing neat and tidy about this info! I'm bringing this up to address a comment I read suggesting someone put all of the original info into some sort of book, print a lot of copies, put them up for sale and wait for the the big bux to roll in! As Rod Stewart sang, "shows how wrong you can be". I can't even convince customers of the importance of owning a factory service manual! Yes, BAT is full of characters with nothing but time on their hands and the need to establish some sort of reputation as the definitive source of Z car info. There's even one character who has an extensive criminal record of fraud, OUCH!

Hope you all will take a look and interested in what you think. The entire site was upgraded to: * Be secure * Cell phone compatible * User friendly * Faster loading I still have a few bugs to work out , but happy with it so far. Ron(Zclocks) zclocks.com

I might now hold the record for the quickest 'Flagged As Not Constructive' comment on BaT. Those high-rolling 'portfolio collection' guys sure do take themselves seriously. For the record, somebody asked when 240Zs started getting the splash pans. '1969' was apparently the wrong answer. Let's hope nobody asks what all those captive nuts are for...

To prove the car was mine and in my possession I took a photo of the vin. above the brake booster with that days date. Sold the car, way too cheap! Now I wish he didn't believe me.

Consider using an escrow account for any long-distance purchase.

Try a backwards image search and see where all it pops up. That's how I found the scammers that were going to sale my 240 I had listed on craigslist. Arrow on the image, S key and CTRL at the same time. Works on Chrome, unfortunately I'm using my phone.

1977 280z has an access port in the floor. The sender is in the top of the tank. The connector has 3 wires. Sender return low fuel sensor.

I agree zed. The price is best offer. I put it in wrong. It’s an excellent opportunity for someone to get a great car with a little work.

Hi , I did some work recently. Checking the inside of the passing light switch of my Z432 and 240ZG , they both keeps good condition. And I did an amateur job for the seat reclining mechanism cover which belongs to my elder Captain Shigekura, they were so badly missing tabs . Don’t look closely, I regret I didn’t took much more time for perfection, but Mr. Shigekura said it is OK about the results. His 240ZG has been kept clean , original condition. He just replaced the seat upholstery and carpet which were done by the master , Mr. Sudo . With using the original materials Mr. Sudo customized them to give a little more stiffness ordered by Mr. Shigekura. Kats

What happened to my post? It's gone. The site is getting weird. @Mike Are there two of these threads, identical? Edit - figured it out. Two identical threads...

Hi Alan , I missed the one last year . BH auction “ Mr. Watanabe memorial “ sold six S20 magnesium valve covers .There were some serious fanatics more then I expected. Kats

Nice Blue , here are some for you just in case . The earliest seat , fat seat back . christoffel , I am bit disappointed ( just kidding ) that you were thinking my Z432 has 1972 seats because of the reclining mechanism when you got in my car ! As a side note , 1969-1970 Fairlady Z L and Z432 has the mechanism but , it doesn’t flip forward. Only for backward. So the mechanism cover is slightly different in the length of the top tab . Kats

Thanks for teaching me! I did not know about this. I just looked at the Jan 71 I restored and there it is:

Hi Blue , I think at the Nissan Shatai factory. Kats https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/?do=findComment&comment=488251

You think those are crappy, wait until you see the factory welds that join the transmission tunnel to the fire wall behind the heater core. Mind you that is a horrible place to have crawl into with a helmet on and try to see what you're doing but yeah the first time I saw them I was sure someone had got in there and did a hack job.

It's a double edged sword! It's great if you're ready to cash out. Not so great if you want to drive them and enjoy them. Harder to insure and you have to start thinking like a Ferrari owner. Is it safe, is someone going to vandalize it or hit it in the parking lot. I sort of miss the "it's a cheap car" thing. It made it very low stress to "drive it like you stole it" and to park it anywhere. The flip side of rising prices is the availability of new reproduction parts that wouldn't exist if the cars didn't have the underlying value

Personally speaking, I would not be surprised by anything that Nissan/Nissan Shatai (or any of their family of companies and suppliers) did in the early days of production, and/or in the switchover to superseded parts and new models. The principle of Occam's razor usually applies. I'm not saying it was total chaos, but those were heady days. We are well aware that there was always a certain amount of fettling going on, and we have seen evidence of repaired/re-finished (presumably initially rejected as substandard, then rectified and re-introduced to the parts bins) so I would never say never. The BaT universe for a car like this is - naturally - biased towards the North American viewpoint. But these are Japanese cars, and it's almost like some of those people forget that. The memories of somebody who sold these cars when they were new, or who has owned fifty of the same type, are always of interest - but I'd rather speak to somebody who was working on the production line. Or better still, many people who were working on the production line... A perfect example of what I'm talking about has just popped up on that BaT auction: Jeff Segan has just made comment on the rear bumper forward-edge rubbers, after somebody queried their absence on this car. He might need to tread carefully with a "not used on 1970 240Zs" type statement. It's a little like running with scissors... After all, what does "1970 240Z" mean. What month? What variant (HLS30U/N/V? HS30U? HLS30? How about Aus and NZ?)? You'll end up dancing on a pin. The E4100 rear bumper forward end 'base' blocks were seen - for example - on the SLE 0630-911027-U factory sales flyer in 1969 (you know, the red car without a clock, radio or antenna, and with cut-and-pasted emblems) and were a feature on Japanese market cars from the first days of deliveries. Applied somewhat haphazardly in Export market cars, they are perhaps a lesson for us in treating sales brochures as reference points and - indeed - any one of these cars with one-size-fits-all ideas about content and conformity.

Early 432 parts (E42). Don't chase them down without making sure they'll fit a 240Z air cleaner housing.

@kats I should have know this about the inspection lids! The earliest cars I have after the 69's is #672/913 and 954. I will take a look at their inspection lid. I'm very curious, becuase just a tab welded to the inspection lid souns like a temporialy fix. I'll show soon some pictures

@HS30-H On BAT people don't take you serious when you are not from the US. I guess this L4steppre never took a 240 apart. Because than he would know that drilling holes in doorcards and doors and putting in screws without prefab the location, wasn't the way the Nissan Factory operated. Thanks, I will take a look at Jalopy!! For me the beauty of the S30's is that they designed it extremely light. After taking apart several 240's I can see without knowing the VIN# wich of the 2 bodyshells is earlier than the other, teh later one has always more reinforcements. But still I have to learn a lot of things, and one day I hope I will have a PS30. I drove the car of Kats in summer 2018 when I visited Japan. The S30 wich made me smile the most is this 1970 US (see picture) market car with triple Mikuni's, matching but improved engine with a 2,8 crank, LSD, 5-speed, coilovers and improved brakes. End of september I did a trip with it in the South of France of about 4000KM. To replace this I'm building a period correct HLS30 #156 with all period/Nissan/Datsun competition parts I can get.

Nov 1971 Mid-1972

Thanks. I’ll try the 77-78. If the community likes them, then maybe I can look into other years or if it’s requested by the community.

Yes, the block is painted. DE1651 Cast Coat Iron from Duplicolor. I didn’t really like the look of the Datsun turquoise blue, I thought it clashed with the red engine compartment. Blasphemy to some of the Datsun hardliners but it’s a 77, not a series 1 collector car. I really like the look of this block color. I have a red powder coated valve cover and I think the colors go well together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Guys, my car is in the process of getting most of the interior parts reinstalled in the vehicle. When i purchased it, the interior was basically stripped and i have been piecing it back together. MY question is which piece should i have in the location directly in front of the shiftier. is it this? or this? or this one? i believe it is the first pic because i do not have a series one car. Vin pick below:

View Advert Sadly must sell - 1978 - 280z It’s with great sadness that I am selling my 1978 280z. My wife and I are moving and there is no room for it at the new house. About a year and a half ago I was simply going to change the front bushings and at that time I found major rust on the driver’s side frame rail and floor pan. Apparently a previous owner filled it with fiberglass which is why it was unknown to me. My only option was to pull the engine to get at the rust. The frame rail, drivers floor pan and radiator support have all been professionally repaired. All that is left is to put the engine back in and restore the front suspension parts. With a 2 year old daughter and my work schedule I have not been able to do this. The body is in very good condition with some minor defects. It is racing green (not original) with a brown interior. I replaced the windshield, added 240 chrome wipers, a 240z wood steering wheel and had the non-working original radio retro fitted by Joes Classic Car radio. The car ran great and the compression test I did before removal was even across all cylinders. The 5 speed transmission shifts smoothly with no issues. I stock piled some parts that I didn’t have a chance to use yet. These will have to go to. Parts List Full front rubber bushings Alternator Adjusting bar Decal anti freeze Decal Nihon Radiator Decal, Vehicle Emissions Door Seals Egr valve and gasket Electrical Schematics Fuel Injector Hose Clamps Fuel Line Heat Connector Inspection bumpers Left Door Seal Outlet Heater Hose Thermostat Valve Cover Bolts Water Pump Also bought a new transmission kit from z car source. If you have any interest please let me know. In addition I will throw in the engine stand and engine crane which I will no longer need. Please see my thread Rust Advice 280z on these forums. You will see pictures and the work done. Advertiser gotham22 Date 01/26/2020 Price Category Cars for Sale Year 1978 Model 280z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)