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away from heat easy access to carb tops

I used RB coils. lots of guys have used LS or ford coils. RB is a stronger coil then the LS unless you buy the AEM version

With the way the original system works, you cannot simply remove or cap off those connections. In addition to feeding the AAR's idle-up function, they also are for the PCV system. The AAR idle-up system CAN be deleted if you feel you don't need the idle-up feature when your engine is cold, but deletion of the PCV system is more problematic There are two hoses involved that complete a "loop" to pass air through the crankcase. One of them connects from the engine block (below the thermostat housing) to the PCV valve. The other one is the hose that connects the top of the valve cover to the intake duct tube. As part of the way the Bosch L-Jet system works is by measuring the air flowing into that system and metering the fuel accordingly. If you start capping off or venting those hoses, it'll play havoc with your fuel mixtures. You need both of those hoses, or neither. And if you run neither, you need to be willing to accept the issues that come with that.

Not likely to end in a boots on the ground war. Iran is too large and like Afghanistan and Iraq have shown, impossible to secure. I suspect they will keep exchanging "pleasantries" until someone has had enough. Iran has far more to lose, at least in the short term, like their refining capacity. We live in interesting times...

Starting in 2003 we have gone from stock fronts and rear drums (autocrossing) to S8W to S12W and drums (track days) to S12W and Wilwood rears(vintage racing). RockAuto calipers taken apart and Swan coated. Have run Porterfield front pads and shoes until our various engines started to overrun the brakes (current: L28 - NA making 260rwhp). Moved to Carbotech 3 years ago all the way around. Brake ducts for the past two years. Motul 660 or 600. We would bleed before each race weekend and at the end of each day but not anymore. Upgraded to 280 booster and 15/16 MC along with stainless lines. Gutted stock prop valve and installed inline valve. Removed all this after 3 years and installed Wilwood pedals, bias adjuster and 3/4 front MC- 5/8 rear with equal length front brake lines the winter of 2018/19. Now moving to Wilwood front 4 piston calipers (12 inch dia & 1.25 inch wide rotors). Getting out braked by the SCCA guys running their 240/280s as GT-2s. All this on 15 inch wheels with either Toyo RA1s ( 225/45/15) or Hoosier R7s (225/45/15-front and 275/35/15 rear). Love the Toyos, they are great from the start if used as rain tires until you wear them down or have them shaved to 5/32. Under 5/32 they are like slicks. Very predictable. Hoosiers are a blast especially with the 10-inch rear wheels. In the rain 225 Hoosier wets all the way around, I have a set of Porterfield and Nismo rear shoes available.

LeMans 1975

One of my off season projects for this year was to replace my sketchy looking intake duct tube between the AFM and the throttle body. I couldn't see any cracks all the way through, but it's just a matter of time. I know there are aftermarket repros available, but I've always kept my eyes open for other cars that had air intake tract hoses that looked similar to the 280Z. With that in mind, and my never ending quest to find cheap ubiquitous replacements for OEM parts, I nabbed this on off a 2002 Ford Taurus: Here it is compared to the stock connector. The angle is almost perfect, but there are some issues. First, it's a little too long and second, the big end (AFM end) is too big: Taking care of the length is simple. Quick work with the razor knife to remove about a half inch from the small end where the hose clamp was and then put the hose clamp back on a little further up: Second problem... The big end is a little too big. The AFM is 2.75 diameter, but the Taurus hose is 3" diameter: So (on the lathe) I made a spacer ring out of aluminum: Put a little sealer on the joint and press the spacer into place. Now I've got an AFM with a 3 inch outlet instead of the original 2 3/4 inches: Put everything back on the car and it looks like this. Cheap, ubiquitous, and although it isn't stock, it doesn't stand out like blue silicone tubes. One more step in having every molecule of air going through the AFM instead of around it:

I know you already took care of your column without taking the bearings out, but just so they exist somewhere, here's my photos from the job. Note that if you are going to take the bearings out of the column, you'll obviously need to have the column out of the car and disassembled. Tap the bearings out of the housing if you dare. I used a long chunk of brass rod because that's what I had laying around and used that to tap the bearings out from the far end. The bearings are press fits into the column tube, but it's not a very tight press. Work your way around the perimeter tapping gently and you can walk them out. Here's the long brass rod that I used: Tapping around the perimeter, walk the bearings "gently" out of the tube: Then once you get the bearing assy out, you can pop the retaining ring and lose the balls: There are thirty balls in the bearings so you can count what you have to make sure you didn't drop any: I've been through this job a couple times now and I have added additional balls to the bearings. Not necessary, but I like the feel. I think it tightens things up a tiny bit. Originally there are thirty balls and I usually add one on each end. @Sean240Z added two balls to his and he really likes the way that turned out as well. So now that you're already done and the pictures were late to the party.... Let me know if there are any questions.

The front of the rocker and the bottom of the fender in front of it have a slight step on the lower edges. I think this is the design but if you decide to go at the fender, you may wish to take a look at this too.

In all honesty, they look as good as they did when new. 1970's gaps were never good and they varied a lot. Leave it and be proud of your work.

I would guess that the normal fittings were replaced with banjo fuel fittings. I was thinking about doing this to my SUs before I converted them to throttle bodies.

The spark would have to pass through the cap material, or along the surface of the cap, to get from the electrodes to the outside. A thin layer of nail polish is not likely to stop that. Is there carbon tracking inside the cap? Follow the path of the spark from the coil's center electrode, through the wire to the cap's center electrode, and then through the "button" inside and out the rotor to each spark plug electrode. The lowest resistance path will be used by the electricity, of course. It seems like bad cap material just based on the video. There are conductive paths on the outside of the cap, probably on the inside too.

Or what is more likely is that Iran did its token response and will milk the propaganda for what it is worth. https://www.newsweek.com/iran-says-it-has-concluded-its-response-us-strike-does-not-seek-escalation-1480956

Haller and his team had serious diff troubles throughout the race in '75. That's why you see the car with its back end in the air in the pits in so many photos. It delayed them greatly. As mentioned, the car was already well used when they got it and - reportedly - they didn't have all that much in the way of spares come with it when they acquired it.

That's from the diff... Side-exit exhaust, not rear exit. The car was running on Nissan ECGI electronic fuel injection, and was already tired before starting the race. In late 'endurance' race spec the Works team tended to run the engines purposely rich (to help it to last) and loose, with a driver-controlled engine oil replenishment system. Haller and his team 'inherited' this spec from the car's Works circuit race history, but without necessarily having the full knowledge of the ECGI system or many spare parts to use with it. All things considered, with the later photos of the car in the '75 Le Mans 24hrs race having been taken after 20+ hours of racing, it is not surprising that it was exhibiting the evidence of heavy breathing from all orifices...

For me this pretty much sums it up ... 2003 is back! :(

Went to the gas station as soon as I saw the news. Edit: As a former service member and Iraq war veteran, my thoughts are first and foremost with our Frontline coalition solders, Marines, airmen and sailors. Not on my fuel bill. But it sure might suck.

It’s sad . Our troops don’t need another winless war.

Are you looking at the 432-R's standard tailgate prop?

Thanks to the people who contributed to this post, my driver's side window rolls up and down normally for the first time since I've owned the car. I took the regulator out, bent and hammered the arms back into the correct shape, and it works great! Now to do the passenger side, apparently it had the same gorilla on the window crank.

For the archives:

This turn signal unit is off of a 510 but it's the same mechanism, those 2 ears on the signal unit are pushed out into the path of the 2 posts on the underside of the steering wheel when you signal a turn. As soon as you turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction after completing your turn one of the posts will hit the ear and force it out of the way, canceling the signal and breaking the electrical contact. That's where you need to look, sometimes the posts or the ears get bent or broken off.

That was one of the supporting card races, not the main event. Clue is the '100 Mile B' in the above. As I mentioned, there were two 150 mile heats of the bill-topping 'All Japan Fuji 300 Mile' race, plus an 'A' class supporting card race of 100 miles and a 'B' class race of 100 miles. The photos you asked about show some of the entries for the main event, not the supporting card. When I get some clear free time.

That's a 130-P model Cedric with an H20 4cyl engine running on LPG.

You're just scatter-shooting again. Where's your critique of the content? You post it as though you believe every word. Isn't this the same Classic Motorsports Magazine article that implied BRE 'discovered' the L24 crank harmonic problem and 'reported' it to Nissan Japan, hence taking some credit for the re-design of the crank and the 'cure'? We've been through all this before of course (Deja Vu all over again...) but Nissan knew about the problem - and already had the re-designed crank going into production and testing - before BRE had received their first 240Z. As for your "...early L24 crank failures and possibly why the L24 did not race in Japan until this was sorted", this doesn't stand up to even the most basic scrutiny, does it? Well before mid 1969 Nissan had already put in place their plans for racing and rallying the new S30-series Z range. That's why the 432-R existed in the first place, and why Nissan was putting together a program of International rallying for the 240Z (they were testing a PZR-bodied, L24R-engined works rally mule on the Monte Carlo Rallye route in January 1970), all of which made sense for its domestic and export marketing strategies. The article's "...the 240Z’s new American-market, six-cylinder engines had never been designed for or even expected to see competition." is ill-informed USA-centric twaddle, isn't it?

Almost finished. Still looking for proper material for drain tube. I hope member is happy with the results. It was great to have the products from rubberparts.com available for this project.

A quick check of Steve's online store website shows the new antenna hardware parts will be offered as two separate order items: Black top for finisher nut @ $25.00 Antenna ball 3-piece kit @ $40.00 Add the already-available fender-top rubber seal @ $20.00 and your Harada antenna will look (to the outside world, anyway) as good as new. Suggestion for Steve: Offer all of five these parts together as a kit for, say, $75.00.

Thanks Kats. That would help out a lot of members.

Hi, I wrote a message to HARADA Ltd customers relationship, about a request of the antenna mast replacement. I do not know they will reply , I am waiting hearing from them. Kats

If the mast could be reproduced with the correct tip it would be a no-brainer to have at the very least 100 reproduced. What is the cost per unit? I had forgotten about the seal ring under the retainer. I hope that along with the cap Nix can reproduce this part. With the mast and the rubber parts correct restoration of an antenna for the early Z will be possible.

"It might make the likes of Grannyknot orgasm into his popcorn" Pics or it didn't happen.

The winning L24 and engine compartment seems pretty basic from the outside. A few items to note: throttle linkage replaced by cable dead-headed fuel piping architecture oil cooler and fittings deleted mechanical fuel pump alternate PCV system with large white plastic catch can deleted fan non-stock damper pulley remote oil pressure measurement sensor fibreglass belly pan hood latch delete (racing pin arrangement) stock battery, alternator, distributor, radiator, coil, starter very light coloured distributor cap. Plugs seem stock. stock wiring harness unknown hose from battery area to drain on left tower/wheel well. It seems to go behind battery then across the fire wall to the transmission tunnel area. heater hose delete shortened/modified fuel rail stock-ish fuel filter Stock hood prop, vent elbows, rad over-flow drain hose, v-reg cover Washer fluid hoses in place along with stock wipers brake booster not in shot. Master brake cylinder and clutch master cylinder seems to be stock no camber mods to shock towers engine lift bracket in place