Leaderboard

Scored a NOS inner rocker panel during a recent garage sale... Part number suggests it is from a 73? Can anyone confirm? Interesting! I did not realize that they cut drain holes in the lower section. All the shells that I have seen are pretty rusty in this area.

5th July 1970 Its Yasunori TOSHIMORI in his 432-R at the inaugural race for the Hokkaido Speedway circuit. He took a win in the GTS class. The Hokkaido Speedway circuit, located in Shiraoicho - not so far from Noboribetsu's famous onsens and within reasonable travelling distance of Sapporo - seemed like it might become the focus of racing activity for the island of Hokkaido when it opened in 1970. But sadly it was to close in late 1973 after some fatal accidents and legal wranglings, not helped by the 'Oil Shock'.

Thanks folks. I tried the technique and the passenger side is now aligned perfectly, but the driver's side is still 1/4" or so up. Bugs the fire out of me. I even tried gently sitting on the corner of the hood while reaching under to tighten the bolts (the grille and bumper haven't been installed yet, which helps access). Will keep trying. I really don't want to have to enlarge the slots in the driver's side bracket, especially now that I've got the passenger side locked down. Ugh. Thanks again.

If you really believe it's not that bad I'd hate to see a really rusty Z. Rust never sleeps and by the time it's this visible there are real problems. Well that's your opinion and this is mine.

@ConVerTT wow, that is a great find! You should get it repro.

That's a great find!

Ok. I sold the car to a local. Nice kid. $15,500. Good enough.

Learning more and more...got the 280z up on a lift today and lots of good news (in my opinion) All of the suspension seems to be as new...struts, control arms, bushings, stab bars...all were either replaced or redone...I will post some pics later.. bushings appear to be rubber as opposed to poly.....No signs of rust either. Brakes as new with new lines, wheel cyl's and calipers. Fresh brake fluid, fresh coolant...didn't power flush because of hoses and not wanting to push the radiator...Getting new tires next week...I had posted the wrong size previously....they are 225/50/15 on 15x7 Panasports..(don't know about offset) Drove it about 60 mi and seems a bit noisy...don't have any idea to compare to. Ran fine though the idle seems a bit high 1000-1100rpm. Temp gauge seems ok as does oil press and ammeter...clock not so much ...went through the entire sequence as outlined in the EFI Bible. with all values pretty much normal....was no pin on one or two...I don't have my notes with me sorry. So I'm feeling encouraged about this old babe...obviously some more sorting to do: New Belts (a/c car), exhaust hangers, all engines hoses and vac lines, cleaning engine bay. I want to get the engine area as clean and neat as possible within reason...not a show car. Needs carpet, sound deadner, seats rep'l etc. Don't think I will tackle the dash (cracked as usual). The sad part is my age and back are going to prevent me from using this car much Thanks for the help...any suggestions, comments, ideas all appreciated!

Slim line power lock actuators installed!

WOW! I have a 75 and that car is really in bad shape. It's what I would call the Datsun submarine---It's been under water most of it"s life and 58K miles? More that likely it has 258K on the car. I would be hard pressed to go higher than $500, honestly, but your better to walk away. You will put $25k into that car just to make it safe to drive and that's you doing ALL the work. I've seen several really nice cars lately for about $5k. They are out there just be patient. Ron

@borini63 might speed things up.

The car was rustproofed back in the '70's. A company called Ziebart used those yellow plugs to plug the holes they drilled into the car to squirt their rust proofing in.

The Banzai car is at $13,200. Less than 2 hours left.

Continuing the distributor renewal project. I just ordered a vac advance unit #22301-N4200 through parts.nissanusa.com and hopefully it will be the correct part. It is coming through Gwinnet Place Nissan in Duluth, GA. I was surprised to see so much detail on that site. I am sure I will be using it again. I am still a bit unsure on how the supercessions go on these parts. Not much info about that. Also according to the diagram, my distributor would be the California version as the contactor appears to be the same as mine. Our local Nissan dealer was clueless and pretty unhelpful with some of my previous inquiries-too old of a car to get parts excuse, even though I had the needed part numbers,-so it was a pleasant surprise to be able to find an easy to navigate website with prices clearly posted and good diagrams. Will need continued help I am sure during this process. Odd that part # on Google search did not get me any legitimate results. Thanks in advance, John-Lugoff, SC.

Sometimes I wonder if sellers look at early Z cars and think that somehow that price also applies to their car. In other words, maybe they saw a low vin 240z and think the 280 will bring the same money. This is especially true of the ZX folks. I'm not really a low vin chaser but if that were a low vin car, it would be worth much more than it is. Although no where near their asking price but certainly closer. That is sheer fantasy. You can find dry 280z all day long. That one was pulled out of a lake.

I experienced the same problem. My hood lined up perfectly until it was removed and reinstalled. So I doubt in my case there are any problems with the hinges. Here is how I was able to change mine from "sloppy" to "not bad". Loosen the hinges. With both hands and on each side, press on the hood. Be careful to only do this directly over the hinges where the hinge brackets are welded. You are dealing with thin sheet metal. Then while you are pressing, ask someone else tighten the hinge bolts. Don't be afraid to allow the hood to go lower than the fenders. After it is tightened up, it will still come up a little. Another tip: Both me and my attendant had a bud lite before starting this. It gave us both a little more patience than we normally would have. :)

The weather here has been a bit cold and rainy, so haven't done much on the car this last week. Plus with the Holidays, it was nice to take a break and enjoy time with family. Cleaned up the distributor and installed that. We should have a bit of sunshine this weekend, so hopefully can get some more stuff cleaned up.

Morton took a great line into turn one. Late braking on the outside. Real great execution.

Hi everyone, thanks so much for your inputs .Those inputs make this thread attractive so much . I really appreciate it , as usual . Recently I have been writing about various kinds of cars , today I am back on route , Datsun 240Z vs Fairlady Z432 . I want to say , both are great great cars , each cars has each fantastic things . About their engines , here are some comparisons . ” Stock specification “ L24 150 ps , 21kgm / S20 160 ps , 19 kgm ” L24 Racing specification “ 200 ps , 24.5 kgm (71 Monte / Safari ) 250 ps , 25.5 kgm (73 RAC , 2498 cc ) “ S20 Racing specification “ 200 ps , ( 69 JAF Grand Prix ) GTR 253 ps , 21.9 kgm ( 71 mid ) GTR 265 ps , ( 72 Fuji Masters ) GTR Wonderful engines they are , Nissan is not a manufacture like Ferrari or Porsche, but I think Nissan did great ! An interesting interview of Nissan works rally team manager Mr. Namba and Mr . Wakabayashi after winning of 1971 Safari rally he said “ we dropped its engine power like a normal car , range 2000-6500 rpm , compression ratio 8.0 ( usually 9.5 for racing) . We assumed average octan 93 , field elevation 0-3200 meters for the race. High-tuned engine is not good for this race , we used standard head gasket , we shaped inside of dome . Also carburetor setup is the key , this rally has various field elevations from zero to 3200 meters , that made us feel challenging. With the assumed octan 93 , we finally settled down setting them at 1800 meters , that was Nairobi “ ... I am so amazed by reading this interview, what a fascinating they were ! And a clever thing is , they filled up their 510 rally cars with six different kinds of fuel before sending back them to Japan ( maybe this was common for rally team ? ) after winning of the 1970 Safari rally. They thought quality of gas was not the same , they needed to know what was the average quality so that making trouble free engine . They analyzed and tested those fuel , then they had got the plan for the 1971 Safari rally. Also an interesting interview for the three ex Prince Murayama engineers is so much fun to read , they did so hard on their racing S20 engine . I will write about it later . • Citation Nissan graph June 1971 DATSUN 510 & 240Z ( Grand Prix Shuppan ) SKYLINE 2000 GTR MEMORIAL ( Yaesu Shuppan ) Kats

Thought I would resurrect this thread to add some info that I learned yesterday working on my own speedometer problem. My speedometer on my early 72 suddenly stopped working Friday. My first thought was speedometer cable. I removed and verified that it was just fine. Next thing I tested was the gauge. I was really hoping it wasn't the gauge because I see no practical way to pull the gauge without pulling the dash. Seems like some people have done this successfully but I don't think I could. The way I tested the gauge is I attached the cable to the gauge and disconnected from the transmission. I pulled the transmission side of the cable from under the car so I could hold the transmission end while watching the gauge. As Zed Head mentions above, if you pull the cable out a bit and turn while pushing, you can feel the cable seat into the gauge securely. Once seated I simply turned the transmission end of the cable counter clockwise (by hand, no drill needed) and was able to see the speedometer needle move. So, gauge was fine. Next, I removed the speedometer spindle / housing at the transmission. If yours has been in there a long time it can be a little challenging to remove. Tap on it a lot (without damaging threads). Remove the 10mm bolt and metal piece that slides into the spindle housing slot. I used a flat head screwdriver and the housing slot to kind of pry the spindle housing out. Be prepared for transmission fluid to pour out a bit. What I found is that the plastic speedometer gear was damaged badly: the teeth were worn away on one side. I installed a new spare I had on hand and my speedometer works as it should again. Remember to line up the slot square relative to the bolt hole. When you reinstall the spindle and housing, it will feel like there is a lot of resistance. Oil everything up, especially the o-ring (use a new one). Press firmly and it should pop in. Don't hammer (see below). While you are at it, think about whether it is time to replace transmission oil. At a minimum, top off your oil if any leaked out. Finally, connect the speedometer cable at the transmission. Follow what Zed Head wrote.Rotate the cable pulling and pushing until you feel it seat in the gauge. Then, hold it in position and slide the cable into the transmission spindle slot so that the cable will be driven turned as the car moves. Tighten up the bolt by hand. I am not totally sure why this happened. I refreshed the transmission last summer and I remember having a difficult time re-installing the spindle / housing. Could be that I got too aggressive forcing it back in. Hope this helps someone dealing with speedometer issues....and especially eliminate every other possible problem before heading down the path of removing the gauge or worse the dash.

I've had this happen when I replaced a transmission. It's possible to get the cable housing, or sheath, attached without actually having the cable end inserted in to the speedo drive gear. Disconnect it at the transmission, draw the cable out an inch or so and insert it in to the drive gear (give it a twist while inserting and you'll feel it drop in), then attach the housing/sheath to the transmission. I usually turn the drive shaft while screwing down the sheath attachment to make sure the cable drops in at the speedo end also.