Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by 87mj

  1. I had the same problem. Except every time I pushed down on the hinge while tightening, then removed the weight, it would come back up. Finally, I was able to loosen the hinge and tie a dumbbell to it with a tie strap (60 lbs). That allowed it to be held down while i tightened it back up. The hood (mid '70 car) has holes in the front. I was able to put a strap in that too and tie a dumbbell to it. Believe it or not, it worked. In my case, I needed to be careful that the hook on the strap didn't put a dent in the sheet metal of the hood.
  2. I went with classic tube. I bought them with the expectation that I could get them plated yellow zinc like they were from the factory. The plater didn't think he could plate them. Regardless, I installed them and I was very happy with the result. They ship them in a very large carton to reduce the number of bends (ie folds) they need to make in order to package them. Even taking that into consideration, you will still need to straighten them and bend them in other areas. I wanted to make sure I still used the rubber brake line insulators in the brackets. I also had another car I could reference to make sure I ran everything in the correct holes. I did not want to see any waves in the tubes. Even a small 8" section. I bought a brake line bending tool and a brake line straightening tool. Without those, it would have been impossible and it would have looked terrible. If I had it to do over, I would have done the same thing. I have one section I need to adjust. Other than that, it looks like someone smarter than me did it. BTW, I am in the middle of a ground up restoration. I dont remember any job being any more difficult than running those brake lines through the transmission tunnel and into those rubber insulators. Take some liquid patience (one bottle), then work for 1/2 hour and repeat the process a few times. Then work on it again next weekend.
  3. Ouch. Those rear wheel arches look like they came off my Jeep Comanche pickup. He may think they look ok but personally, I think they look like I did them.
  4. Thanks Jeff. I really wanted a set of Watanabes but the minimum width they have is 8". Some seem to like the look of a wheel that is 1" + wider than the tire but its not for me and I dont want to alter fenders to get them to fit. Panasport has a fisheye look. I think I am the only person on the planet that doesnt like those but I don't think I will have much choice. ( Sorry I didn't mean to hijack the thread 🙂 )
  5. Do you think 16x8+0 with 225/50R16 would fit a 240 as long as it is at standard ride height and without trimming?
  6. Great. I will give that a try. Thanks
  7. I installed my headlight scoops the other day and noticed a small crack in the clearcoat. I looked at it a couple of hours after I installed it and realized it was a crack in the headlight scoop. I think the car took a bump there long ago. I am not too concerned with the crack as long as it doesnt get any bigger. I really dont want to replace it and risk a paint mismatch. Does anyone know of a resin or something that can be applied to the back to keep it from growing? Any thoughts? Thanks Gary
  8. I have a 6/70 that I am restoring. The sway bar brackets that bolt to the bottom of the frame rails and hold the sway bar bushings seem to be the exact shape as my 5/71 in every way. Except on my 6/70 they were never painted. They appear as if they were yellow zinc. My car has been sitting for a very long time so I dont think the suspension components have been modified. I like the look of properly zinc'd parts but I am not a big fan when it is over done. Has anyone ever seen these brackets zinc from the factory or have you only seen black?
  9. Since I am digging into one of these, I thought I would add to it. The hood is different. I have a 6/70 I am rebuilding and the underneath side of the hood at both corners next to the cowl doesn't have as much stamped reinforcement as the later cars. Even compared to my 5/71.
  10. I am in the process of restoring a '70. I have gutted it and am in the process of putting it back together. My next step is to install a new dash. I have moved the dash wiring harness to the new dash along with all the gauges and I am about to plug everything back into the harness. The engine is still out of the car. I am about to plug a battery into the harness so I am very intimidated at the thought of burning something up. My ground is connected correctly. Assuming I am careful and connect the electrical components back together such as the lights, horns, etc. so that nothing is touching metal that shouldn't, I see there are 3 wires coming off the positive battery terminal. One is a thick black wire which goes to the starter. I assume that powers the starter motor. Since there is no starter right now, I assume I can put that one aside. That means there is a smaller gauge black wire going to the solenoid and another going to the fusible link. If I wanted to apply power to the harness to test the lights, horns, gauges and so on, is it safe to say I only need to apply power to the wire with the fusible link? I also thought I would pull all the fuses from the fuse box except the circuit I am testing. That should eliminate any chance of burning everything up. Agree? Any suggestions?
  11. I ended up buying an inexpensive Harbor Freight lift. I was able to get the engine out but the hydraulics in the lift were not strong enough to hold the load up for any period of time. When I put it back in, I am going to use my tractor and loader in the driveway along with two sons to guide it in. I read a previous post where using the two factory lift points was a bad idea. Someone said they are not strong enough and would break. From the pics, it looks like everyone is using those. Has anyone had any problems? BTW, the rope through the transmission tunnel is an excellent idea.
  12. Just curious. Has anyone successfully painted the engine bay without removing the engine, brake lines, harness, etc?
  13. I wanted to comment on this post. I never saw a wheel in person that is the same color as those photos. In fact, I would go so far as to say the years have not changed the color of the wheel at all. The finish may have wore off in areas and caused discoloration but the color hasn't changed. Like others have already mentioned, the knob and the wheel were two totally different colors.
  14. I confess I dont know the visual difference between a 350z and a 370 et al. but I am a little surprised how few S30 cars appear to be there. From the videos, it looked like there were far more later cars and very few S30.
  15. eek. That is tacky. And unfortunately, period correct. If you are taking votes, its got to go. What were they thinking? Nice car though.
  16. Those body side moldings were very common back in the day. Z seems to be very sensitive to different add ons based on the color of the car. Personally, I don't like the look of them on most cars. I have a 905 red car that I thought really needed them. So I put them on it. But they were adhesive type. No rivets. My wife and I both like the look but my younger sons don't. I have a 918 orange car that I wouldn't dream of putting them on. If it were me and I was going to send the car in for repaint, I would get those holes filled and install adhesive based moldings. Then the holes in the sheet metal are taken car of and if you ever change your mind and decide to remove them, it wont make you sick.
  17. I experienced the same problem when I painted my car 918. It was painted in several stages. Underside of the hood and misc small pieces. Then underneath, interior, engine bay. When I first saw it, it seemed way too brown. It actually had a purple cast to it. The body guy bought it from Napa but I don't remember the actual manufacturer off hand. The final paint job looked terrible. Quality, color, everything. So I had it redone with PPG. Then it looked "correct" to me.
  18. The thing I don't like about BAT is there are a few that say positives about the car. It seems to increase the bidding even though the comments are highly subjective. If you don't receive their comments, you don't get good bids. Strange.
  19. That is more like a history than a reputation. I am constantly amazed at how well 240zguild guy sells cars. During auctions, he is always dropping comments about some past transaction that implies expertise. If you look at past auctions that aren't even his, he always sells himself and his shop in his comments seemingly just to get his name out there. "When we do our cars...". He is very subtle about it. He blessed this one at the end of the auction to make the buyer feel that he got a good price. Its a pretty good business model if you know how to sell used cars. Give yourself a name that implies expertise and double the price of what you sell.
  20. I was a little surprised it went for $77k. If you look close, it appears as if the wheel arches are not straight. As if they are finished with bondo. The rocker seams are missing along with the rear valance seams. On the closeup shots, the paint job looked a little rough too. To top it off, the description says the seller hasn't driven the car since it has been restored. Does that mean it doesn't run or it has some electrical issues that haven't been worked out yet? It seems like a project at 60% complete.
  21. Regarding your doors, I aligned mine with the seals and latches off the car. The window frames were on the door. That gave me a good starting point. It allowed me to make the gaps as accurate as I could. Then focus on the latch afterward. BUT, I wish I would have taken a black sharpie pen and outlined the door latches. Then replaced the factory ones with cheap aftermarket Taiwan parts. Then tell the body shop to paint over those cheap aftermarket ones. Also, when removing the doors from the car, unbolt the doors from the hinges. Leave the door hinges in their factory locations. Then when I got the car back from the body shop, install the original factory door latches (the factory positions should now be easy to see). And the hinges would still be at their factory location. I wish. But too late now.
  22. I always thought the underneath side of the car wasn't finished at all. Jim's pics seem to support that. In other words, they were barely painted and painted mostly by overspray.
  23. I bought a 6/70 a couple of years ago that didn't have emblems on the pillars. They were deleted by a PO. Makes no sense to me.
  24. Is it safe to say that door weatherstrip that requires the use of the factory welt strips is still non existent? Either factory or aftermarket?
  25. I have owned 3 240z cars previously. All had the later style 4 speed. I am putting together an early car with the series 1 transmission. I hear they feel sloppy compared to the later version. Is that your opinion? Do you plan to keep the series 1 transmission?
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.