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What unethical is to deceive a potential buyer. It doesn’t matter what you do as long as you’re honest. Otherwise you are lying and that the unethical part . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think that is a beautiful engine. Now imagine Jenvey ITBs instead of DCOE's!

? The Hoover bag will never let you down ?

Finally happy with a vacuum log. Just need to finish the booster fitting. I think it looks vintage enough but should still work well.

You should be able to very easily measure the base circle to at least determine if it's a stock grind or not. No calculations, no degree wheel. If it measures out to a stock base circle, you're done. If not, we can talk about that later? Don't pull that cam gear off now. Absolutely not. Way far down on the list of things that might get done. Or not.

Well she is up on BaT, here's hoping they don't eat me alive. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-31/

From what I've seen the real bidding will be in the last half hour / 15 minutes of the auction. I'd hold off to the end before you pull the trigger on bidding.

Well after purchasing a 71 240Z off Copart and basically receiving a polished turd due to all the internal frame rust issues, I did some searching and found a local early model 260 I will be able to start my 302 project swap on. Someone started this and made an attempt at patching the floor and sealed some things up, but I'm thinking it might be best to just replace the whole floor than to trust the segments of lap welds. The project is influence by @Home Built by Jeff and RWB Jeff, as well as many others and I can't wait to dive both feet into it. More to come as I get the old car out of the garage and the new one in, but I guess at least I have a parts car now ?

Uh-oh looks like I snagged a photo without paying the royalty fee. ? Your .0296 cents is in the mail. I bet a lot of the google images are from this and other forums.

Well inspiration will be abound as I head up to Road America for the weekend to check out the Vintage races. Then back with project updates and some race pictures next week.

That's funny, that is my photo back from when I had a look at making shock mounts.

What broke? That might be a clue to how a 4 speed will do. You could use the front case/bellhousing from your 5 speed to convert a 240SX 71C 5 speed. Wider/stronger gears and bigger countershaft bearing on the later models.

Here's more goodness from atlanticz's ancient page. Looks like 33.3 mm is the typical Nissan base circle diameter. You can measure that without removing anything except the valve cover. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/valvetrain/index.html

Got it. Know I have those, just need to figure out where it put them in my garage... Thanks. Appreciate the help.

Me too...

I doubt there is, the early 5-speed uses the same basic parts as the 4-speed and adds an overdrive gear. I've used a late 280ZX close-ratio Nissan 5-speed behind my L28ET for several years but I'm relatively easy on it... I also have a T-5. Want me to ship it to you?

Opinions here please. I have access to an N42 and a P79. Without much drama, which would be the easiest to "hop up"? I've read the P79 shaving and older valves work supergood but is there that big of a difference in a N42 head. I like square exhaust ports.

@Diseazd would be another P79 king.

Going by my '77 and what I did as far as removing everything like your sons car, my honest opinion would be go back to a '78 fuel pressure regulator with that fuel rail. Unless you injectors are some fuel hogs it should run fine with the OE style FPR. I ran into that same dilemma when I did mine but after tons of reading I found the '78 one inlet style was sufficient. Maybe the previous owner read something I missed but I doubt it.

In the US it is not legal, unless when the vehicle is resold the owner checks the form stating that the mileage shown on the odometer is not accurate. There is no grey area on that issue under federal law. I would consider it ethical if a similar statement was made to the buyer as well. Of course, that would not be a surprise in this case, but it is appropriate and ethical to make it clear.

Good find. I'll fix it.

If you have tried to remove it and it just spins then yes you have to remove the strut, hopefully it is the nut that is stripped and not the shock absorber threads. Wait a minute, it might not be stripped, there is a possibility the shock strut is spinning with the nut in which case you need to find a way to hold the shock strut and prevent it from spinning so the nut can be screwed down.

Yes, I understand those subtle points, and that's where some of the problems are. For example... If you change the pin height spec in the calculator here>> http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips//calcs/engine builder/index.html The compressed volume changes, but the un-compressed volume does not. It's a bug. It's not accounting for the fact that the piston height at the bottom of the stroke is raised as well. I'll clean up my spreadsheet some and maybe post my numbers.

No. Says who? I'd rather have the new one.

I guarantee it!! Glad you found another starting point, and here's hoping it's a better start than the last one.

If master has dried up or run empty while bleeding at wheel it needs to be bled. Just buy new 4 pot toyota truck calipers. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/toyotabrakeupgrade/index.html https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=311378&cc=1277153&jsn=726 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=311377&cc=1277153&jsn=712

@David F In the US most of the laws governing this are state laws. So there is not one right answer and I don't even know what the laws pertaining to this are in Canada or if they are provincial laws or national laws. Here in SC there is no law against rolling an odometer forward, that I know of. It is highly illegal to roll one backward. Now on the broader topic. If you roll one forward far enough to be 00,000, I would expect the law would frown on this too if the intent is to defraud. I have replaced odometers in cars and have tried to purchase odometers or set them close to what I replaced, but pretty much all of our titles for 10 year old cars or older say "Exempt" so the mileage is in "excess of mechanical limits". I think the OP's premise is, if the car has enough money invested in it then it's a "new" car and the odometer should reflect that but in reality I think that is too close to the line. The car is not new and it's not a super low mileage survivor. I think most states would agree and if someone were to purchase the car and make a big deal about it could become a problem.

We have time machines in Canada. You can go back in time and change the gender on your birth certificate so an odometer reset is down in the noise. btw the guy in the pink shirt in the middle is our prime minister. Yes, sadly the real world is worse than South Park could ever parody.

Don't Google "240z factory restoration program" because the "factory" didn't "restore" them. Let's get that misconception cleared up right away! Short answer; Nissan USA hired a number of "contractors" to recondition previously sold 240zs and then sold them through selected dealers with 12 month / 12,000 mile warranties. Many many parts were replaced in the process but the speedometers were not replaced in all cases and odometers were not reset to 0 miles.

I would not mess with (17) as the alignment of 15 will shift (which is no fun) FYI: Having the jet go all the way up is just a nice way to set the needle relative to 0 turns of the jet. The Jet will never be that high in operation so no worries if you follow these two steps: 1. Just use a depth gauge to set each top of jet 2.5mm down from the bridge and you will have a starting point. 2. The shoulder of the needle should be flush with the bottom of the piston, not the ceiling of the groove.