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Sold my engine today ! Time to move on to my L28 build. Buyer brought his Z to me to install his newly acquired motor. He was fortunate enough to actually drive his motor before he bought it. He was smiling too much to barter a better deal. So now I have a double engine swap to do.

We got lucky, he only circled the south eastern corner.

The MSA Summer Sale email pushed me over the edge. I just ordered a full set of Koni's and the gland nut tool Sale price + free shipping + no sales tax. Rationalization rears it ugly head!

Going to leave the AFM alone for now. Planning on going through the fuel injection system and testing everything we can, testing vacuum, etc. Did fine out a few more pieces of info. Haven't verified, but PO says the injectors should be original type, not turbo (we'll see). He did change out the throttle body, as many had observed. He also switched the cam to a Schnieder Racing Cam. I'm not sure exactly what that does or will mean, but one more piece of the puzzle. My son turned 16 two days ago, so he wanted to get up early and go to Cars and Coffee. Gratuitous pic of him (the one with long hair) next to his car. He had a blast and we had a lot of people stopping to talk. Everyone had one or knew someone who did and have fond memories. Was fun.

Parked cars and removed all potential flying debris as a hurricane is about to hit ? Finger's crossed.

My thread has a section on the quarter panel body lines complete with measurements on where they need to be. Starts here, goes on for a while. 1976 280Z Restoration Project https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=83168&share_tid=50908&share_pid=517933&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eclassiczcars%2Ecom%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F50908-1976-280Z-Restoration-Project%2Fpage__view__findpost__p__517933&share_type=t

I deleted that email without ever looking. I know ME.

The factory system probably won't like the schneider cam. Schneider offers a lot of different cams. You will need to try to pin that down further

I thought I would add this here. MSA now sells a gland nut tool. Pretty reasonable and allows torquing https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic07/60-9956

Jim, thanks! Nice looking 240Z BTW.

Seldom do you see a music video where a Byrd, a Beatle, a Heartbreaker, a Domino, a Buffalo Springfield, and a Nobel Prize winner get together to sing a song. Here's one of my favorites. Dennis

Hot lap?

Whoa. I hope you're not blaming yourself for that, recreating those body lines is very challenging for sure but he had a lot of other stuff going on in his life that lead to his suicide.

Thanks, I put a wanted ad up today.

The gap at the very top is normally large like that. There is some inconsistency right above the body line. My way of going at that is grinding off metal or adding weld bead along the edge to build it out. I think I would strip the front fender to make sure what the rear edge looks like

Sorry brother, didn't mean to criticize your work, what do I know? I just pictured a small pulley right behind the throttle shaft linkage that would turn the cable 90 degrees and run it along the bottom lip of the valve cover and another pulley on the fire wall to take it to the bell crank. I think @wheee! did something similar recently, it looked really clean.

The 280Z floor pan frame rails have a compound curve that is hard to duplicate. The passenger side is on a bend in the floor.

I bought some thin offsets (~1/8" thick) for the fronts so I didn't have to flatten much the wheel bearing cap. It also allowed the rim to slide over the hub easier. Once I had the offsets centered properly, I used a small amount of plumber putty between the hub and offset to hold them in place for when I remove the wheels so as to not alter their position. These have been great for 10yrs now with no shimmy or vibration when driving at high speeds. Had front end alignment done and good to go! https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/gorilla-automotive/product-line/gorilla-wheel-spacers/part-type/wheel-spacers?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&N=thickness-in%3A0-125-in My 73 has 16x7 Konig Rewinds with 205/55/16's on the front and 215/55/16's on the rear (The rear tires are about 1/2" wider but give me an accurate speedo reading). Love the Konigs, they were much lighter than my cast iron rims that came with the car. Plus easy to clean.

Holy hell boys! Been awhile , update is..... All rust is removed and repaired. Epoxied the bttm and seam sealed er up and today I put on the final 2nd coat of undercoating (herculiner) I chose this stuff because I had used it on my bro co and I a used that thing hard in the bush, she held strong so I assume in this application under a car instead of a beast she will hold up fine. Pretty friggen excited to bolt on a few suspension pieces and get this thing off the stand and on ots wheels. Next up is a bit of a break from it, then set and adjust door gaps and hood /tailgate stuff. Should be ready to epoxy the body and start in on skim coats of bondo by the fall. Yay! Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk

Paints cheap! Mine was blue and I found red underneath. Now it’s grey..!

I'm not sure but I theorize that maintaining this body line during the repair of a wheel arch can be time consuming for the body mechanic due to the limited space. Mine told me the line "disappears" over the wheel arch. He claimed he got his info from a local fellow that owned two z cars. I sent him a picture of the lines of my other car. He reluctantly put the lines in the car but he was mad at me for the remainder of the restore. Then he killed himself shortly thereafter.