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Captain Obvious’s bumper prototype. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did a little write up on this a while back. It is about 2/3 of the way down on the first page of the link below. Personally, I would not use wd40....you want something that evaporates. For what it is worth, Windex is my best friend with all this stuff, especially for putting in the metal strips. It is nice and slippery and then evaporates. Also good for assembling hose onto metal tubes.

CO is a genius in our barnyard, err..stable, But you're not a buffoon, just somebody I wouldn't trust to be near my sister, daughter, or mother........?

We know you don’t have a smart phone so it’s easy to beat you up while you long in to AOL. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you figure out why the fuse blew? I know I'm not you, and you aren't me, but I would want to figure out why it blows before I paint it... I guarantee the bumpers aren't causing the short... I know wiring isn't for everyone, but...... there is a present for you (and every other 1977 owner), right here on this site.... Check out the download section, specifically wiring diagrams... https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

Yep, she's been kick'n both of my hind cheeks for over 24 years and shows no sign of letting up.?

Make sure the chassis ground above the tank is clean and protected

Wow. You guys have been on a roll in my absence. Glad to provide you with so much amusement at my expense! I would usually deflect stuff like this with "Yeah, whatever. My car runs great", but that's not currently the case. So go ahead... Poke your fun. I'll get even someday!

I beg your pardon, I'm not that old.

I use the lube from Precision, this is the third car I have used it on and still have more than half left, another benefit of the monofiliment is with a bit of pressure you can just roll it into the chanel , just popped in the rear glass the this afternoon and will do the windshield tomorrow.

That's the EZ coil. From all I've read they work fantastic. I went the cheap and in my tool cabinet route with those pex fittings.

I kind of like this option from one of the zhome link.

And the guy who does them for the elephants at the Ringling Brothers Circus says, "The pay's not good, but the tips are big." Sorry, Cliff, I shouldn't encourage you. However, take comfort in knowing you're not the only one with an 8 year old's sense of humor. Enjoy the 4th of July! Dennis

All great ideas. One more tip from me. How to get the rope/twine/monofiliment/floss into the pinchweld channel in the weatherstrip. I use 3/16 line, so I grabbed a 6-8 inch long 1/4" ID piece of tubing (brass from a hobby store is what I used I think) and thread the rope through it, leave about 12" inches sticking out. You can then insert the tip of the tube with the 12" bit of line into the rubber channel (leave the end of rope sticking out, it's the end you will start pulling on) and draw it around the weatherstrip perimeter keeping the tip inside the channel. Start center bottom or top, your choice. The rope will magically be deposited inside the channel. Should take about 20 seconds and feels SO good when you do it! Since lube is a hot topic, you could lube the rope before you insert it and get the channel lubed at the same time! Here is a picture of the commercial tool I found online to give you the visual.

I actually have the sending unit, locking ring thing, and o-ring in my shopping cart through datsun-garage.

So your wife is a bad a s s? I'll remember that if I ever get the opportunity to meet her.

The brakes need to be “pumped” to actuate the piston in this device. The piston then blocks the defective line and shuttles all fluid to the working brakes. Quite ingenious really. ... as long as you remember to pump the brakes when they fail!

Hold up! I'm the forum's bufoon. CO is our "stable genius".

Thanks but that's the work of our buddy, @240260280 I've been linking that Tech page for so long sometimes I forget to say Thank You Phillip!

Thanks for the responses. I did get 2 of the temperature sensors. They look to be correct and match right up to the old corroded sensors. O'Reilly Auto Parts have the 2 parts that fit my 78 280Z. 17-1253 & 17-1233, both under the line code of IDI. They also list the cold start valve under Standard Ignition brand but have no listing for the thermo timer sensor. Most of the dedicated Z sites do offer that sensor and I guess I will be purchasing one soon. Great tech article from siteunseen. Thank you, John-Lugoff, SC.

I designed and fabricated the heat shield. It is aluminum with "Thermo-Tec 13575 Adhesive Backed Aluminized Heat Barrier" (can be found on Amazon). After I installed headers, I found a lot of heat coming up between the carburetors with the stock heat shield. This heat shield dropped the temperature between the carburetors by about 100 degrees F.

Demolition Derby Champ #2

I don't think anyone buys a classic Z for the safety. I agree with ZH, they might protect your car from granny in the parking lot from smashing up your rear apron but if you get hit with any real force those bumpers won’t do a darn thing to protect you, Captain Obvious is probably designing a 10 mph bumper that sticks out 24 inches for his restomod. Sorry CO....its 3am, I'm working and between flights...couldn’t help myself ?

Here is the Kameari kit. Kameari 2mm spacers and bolts

Just as a follow up, new fluid and the heat shield did the trick. Brakes worked perfectly last track day.

Fine. I’ll go back and powder coat them pink for you too....

Prepped!

I have some to spare...

I will use the snow for packing material. Should keep things nice and safe en route!