I did the same for the harness I redid, but I did it with all the wires so I didn't have to heat or stretch the boot. I haaaave done that in the passed, but I find it's best to do it near a sink so you can cool the rubber down if you get it too hot too quickly. it will "freeze" it in its current shape and not let it get too goopy. But on the Z that wasn't a problem for me because de-pinning the connectors on these is so easy if you are used to it. They're actually the easiest automotive connectors to de-pin across all makes and models.
I also used the right width electrical tape instead of the standard/generic 3/4" electrical tape so the wrap would be identical to the original. 3/4" tape gets a bit too bulky or "spirally" IMHO but that's not something many people would notice anyhow, but I likes what I likes.
I also had harness tags printed to match the originals for all the harness tabs, and also some other years. I matched the font and glyphs to what I would say is 98.9% accuracy based on reverse engineering the leading/spacing/tracking of each digit and the one preceding it. The only difference being that some fonts were a tad bit bolder, but luckily I had a license from a font from the same series (not quite exact, but same typeface, just different era) from a design job I did long time ago. Most wouldn't be able to tell the difference without having both beside one another anyway.
They were then printed on the correct thickness vinyl and I affixed them using the OE over-wrap technique.
Also, there were two or three wires on the harness that had large plastic sheath on them that are not available, though at the time I was going to buy some to test that I think I found to be the right ones- but they were tinted green.
I also noticed that Yazaki provided their own wire too at the time, which I thought was cool:
I almost forgot, there are some cheap dollar store electrical tape rolls that have the perfect shade for each additional "marker" colour like green, blue, red, and yellow, which were placed on the harnesses at various points too. Just remember that if anyone is going to attempt to colour match... unroll the tape first, it gets about 5 shades darker under the first wrap if it hasn't been exposed to sunlight or heat.
Never had the chance to look into what each colour signified or if they were mentioned anywhere in the FSM, but I just put them anyway:
The wiring is so simple on these cars, it's actually an enjoyable experience to redo and have piece of mind- and you can safely clip each wire at the very end of its factory crimp and put on a new terminal with new brass and sheaths and it will still reach all the terminating points since they weren't super tightly placed to begin with. The larger width tape helps it flex a bit better too.