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Everything posted by kenward1000

  1. Found that site yesterday, thanks. Engine is stock 72 240z, Pertronix ignition, 32 degrees total advance at 3000+ rpm, dwell 30 degrees, upgraded coil. Compression is 160psi per cylinder, +/- 5. I've rebuilt the carbs, synced with a TwinMax. Mixture screws 1 turn out from the stop, which makes the plugs burn clean. Starts readily with full choke, 2000rpm. Engine almost immediately begins to run rough at idle, rpm slowly reduces until it's about to die. Revving the engine above 3000rpm a few times improves the idle. Idles at 700-800 when fully warm. Really seems cold blooded. Just wondering if the 14" vacuum at idle is low, contributing to poor idle. Thanks for all the replies!
  2. Did a vacuum test yesterday on my 72 240z. plugged the gauge into a port on one carbs intake manifold. Reads about 14" at idle, goes up to 20" when revved above 3000 rpm. Are these values "normal" or do they indicate a vacuum system leak somewhere? If the reading is low, how to figure out where the leak might be? Thanks IMG_6987.m4v
  3. I'm dealing with some DPO hack. Looks like they had the front cover off, then mangled the head gasket when trying to slip it back in place. There are two small fasteners at the lower front of the head. The driver side one is missing but can't be replaced because the head/head gasket/front cover holes don't line up. Did some cleaning then external sealing today. If that doesn't work then it seems like the head has to come off, to replace the mangled head gasket and the mis-aligned fastener holes. Thanks for the tips!
  4. My 72 is leaking increasing amounts of oil, at the upper edge of the engine front cover, where it meets the front edge of the head. Looks like the head gasket is mangled there. No coolant seen. Trying to get a sense of how big this job is, any special tools required, anything that should be inspected after the removal, parts that should be replaced as a matter of course, the whole enchilada. Have all the normal automotive tools and mechanical ability. Searched YouBoob and the forums for threads about prepping for/accomplishing this task, didn't find enough. Thanks for reading this post!
  5. Yes, the unique left and right arm ID's, thanks.
  6. 5/71 240z. The wiper arm marked "761 TRICO LD100-L" has failed, where the plastic connects to the blade, and must be replaced. The other wiper arm is marked "621 TRICO LA87R". Should I be looking for a "621 TRICO LA87L"? The wiper arms on my 72 240 are marked "408 TRICO 55-R" and "409 TRICO 55-L". Didn't find posts on this topic, after doing a search. Thanks
  7. Thanks for the re-alignment tip! The Z Therapy DVD also advocates mix-n-match to find a pair of domes/pistons which have similar drop test measurements.
  8. Cool, now I know what those things are called! One carb is missing the nubbies, the other isn't. I'm trying to build the best two carbs out of four, so yes when I did the piston drop test on all four domes and pistons, I decided to use the pair that were the closest, which means that one carb body doesn't have it's original dome/piston. Are you confirming that there should be no binding between the needle and the nozzle, regardless of piston position?
  9. Reassembling a pair of 3-screw round tops for my 72 240z. Trying to get the jet nozzles to go fully in smoothly, until they touch the mixture screw. With the piston-jet needle installed, the jet nozzle binds with several millimeters to go. When I manually retract the piston-jet needle, the jet nozzle smoothly slides in fully without binding. I've rolled the needles on a flat plate and they're not bent. Is this an issue or am I over thinking this? Searched the forums prior to posting, didn't find anything. Regards
  10. I've seen posts about the Walmart EverStart Maxx, however from the Walmart website: Brand EverStart Maxx Manufacturer Part Number MAXX-24 Assembled Product Weight 44.4 lbs Assembled Product Dimensions (L x W x H) 10.20 x 6.80 x 8.90 Inches So is the published spec wrong or are the current production batteries now taller than your battery? Guess I have to go to Walmart and measure one. Thanks for the picture!
  11. Please tell me the manufacturer and model number of your battery.
  12. https://zcarsource.com/battery-frame-hardware-kit-240z-260z-280z-70-78-new Was able to bust it loose. Check out the contact area on the valve cover and the battery terminal. Last image is the aftermarket battery hold-down that broke.
  13. So I'm looking for a new battery, after a battery failure. Was taking R hand corners aggressively then the rubber aftermarket battery hold-down failed, sending the group 24 battery sliding L until the positive terminal welded itself to the polished valve cover. Instant electrical death, main fuse popped, no smoke or fire. AAA towed it home but I had to walk as you can't ride in the truck anymore. Bought a stock battery kit, with the tray and the factory hold-down bracket. Dead battery current production replacement is now 9", or I'd just get another one. Shopping for battery and only finding group 24 batteries that are 9"/228mm in height. The tallest battery the hold-down bracket will accommodate is 8.25"/210mm. Group 24 batteries are all acceptable for length and width. Searched the forums for battery height related posts, found none. tldr: Looking for a recommendation for a battery that will fit the stock hold-down bracket and battery tray dimensional limitations. Regards 71 240Z, San Hozay, California
  14. My issue was the connector on the wiring harness side of the fusible link had a broken off locking tab. The connectors stayed together only via friction and had become disconnected. Couldn't see the disconnect at first as DPO had put a wrap of duct tape around it, in lieu of replacing the broken connector. The consequences of having that fusible link fail while on a road trip are so high that I bought a new spare fusible link. Also bought a new wiring harness side blade and plastic shell. Didn't need to replace the blade, which is 8+mm in width, but I did have to destroy the old plastic connector shell to install the new shell. I got these from Banzai Motor Works www.zzxdatsun.com $15 for the WH03 fusible link and $7.50 for the WH03/05 connector. Hope this helps.
  15. With enough heat and squirting with penetrant, got the old weak motor out of the rubber housing, after extracting the rubber housing from the reservoir. First installed the new MSA motor into the rubber housing, then tried to install that assembly onto the reservoir; not possible. Removed the motor, installed the rubber housing onto the reservoir, THEN pushed the motor into the housing. Success. Need to re-align the metal squirt tubes so the washer fluid sprays through the valence slots. Also need a tiny hose clamp (or maybe safety wire) for the passenger side washer fluid tubing (new tubing), so all the fluid sprays into the squirt tubes instead of soaking the firewall. Thanks for all the suggestions!
  16. With the hot water soak and two pry bars (which mysteriously look like screw drivers) was able to separate the reservoir from the rubber/motor assembly. Now, how to extract the motor from its hard rubber housing? The motor is going to be discarded, so destroying it while using a press to extract it seems reasonable. Is there another option?
  17. Just purchased a replacement pump motor, as the original motor is too weak to spray fluid anymore, even after replacing the tubing. How does the old motor come out of its rubber holder? Been dripping penetrating oil around the motor. Does the rubber holder need to be removed from the fluid reservoir first? The rubber isn't very pliable. Searched the forums repeatedly, found lots of posts about purchasing a replacement motor, no advice found on how to physically remove/replace it. Maybe I didn't use the correct search terms. I've been using this forum a lot since buying a 71 and 72 240z this year, everyone has been super helpful. Thanks!
  18. If the "fusible link" that connects battery power to the wiring harness has failed or if the connectors between the "fusible link" and the wiring harness have opened/pulled apart, that will produce what seems like a total electrical system failure (no cranking, no lights, no horn, no nothing) even though the battery is fine. Just found/fixed this problem on my 71 240z with the kind people of the Help Me! forum.
  19. Aha! That image led me to the problem spot. Now I can see the "fusible link", which looks very much like a length of black wire. The "fusible link" provides +12vdc to the wiring harness, through the plastic connectors. The tab of the connector on the harness side had broken off sometime in the past. So the DPO had put a wrap of duct tape around the connectors to hold them together. For some reason there's no slack in that wire on my car, so the connectors eventually pulled apart. When they were no longer touching, that fact was covered up by the duct tape. My "fusible link" shows continuity. Zip ties and clear heat shrink to the rescue, all electrical power restored, car starts. Should get a spare starter "fusible link" to carry with me on rallies, where a single-point failure means an expensive flatbed home. On the harness side, need to lengthen the wire by 2" to prevent tension strain on the connector and find a new connector end that has a functioning tab. Are there other "fusible links" in the wiring harness? Thanks for the replies!
  20. Wait, do you mean the 20A IGN fuse in the fuse panel? Already checked and known good.
  21. Where is the IGN fuse located? Thanks
  22. Where is this alternator fuse located? Thanks
  23. 71 240z owned for 5 months. Been on two 900 mile rallies, driven daily, been running great. Decided to re-check vacuum pressure, after replacing two leaking hoses (block to intake manifold, intake manifold to brake booster). Started car, let it warm up. Shut it off, plugged in vacuum gauge hose. Car won't start. Won't crank, no turn signals, no horn, no nothing. Even though I thought that plugging in the vacuum gauge couldn't possibly cause the problem, removed it and still no electrical power. Battery is 2 years old, measures 12.75vdc. Searched all forums for similar issues. Charged overnight, still no electrics. Jumped from a known good battery, still no electrics. No voltage detected at any fuse in the panel, all fuses good. I'm electrically competent. Would appreciate any tips on where I can look for potential failures.
  24. Thanks to jfa.series1 for telling me how to figure it out. Got the hinges in and solved my hatch issues. Thanks!
  25. bought 71 240z 3 months ago. the driver side hatch at hinge has always stood proud. seller had no info, said it was like that when he bought it, always kept it garaged so he didn't worry about rain. efforts to adjust (after searching forums) all failed. removed that hinge, has a lot of bench grinder marks for some reason. decided to replace both hinges, eBay @ $40/pair. they arrived this morning and are symmetrically different, seems like they're made for specific sides of the car does replacement hinge image 5356 show the correct orientation, driver side on the left? thanks! couldn't resist putting a TLA in the title
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