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Thanks to everybody in this thread. All of this discussion has solved an ongoing problem for me where I kept slowly toasting the fusible link for the alternator and fuse block (it was brown) whenever the headlights were on and only when the engine was running. It was driving me crazy until CaptO's picture showed up. I had been blindly going by MSA's diagram and had placed my black link like their example, putting a brown link on the slow roast. I just went down and switched the links to the proper placements. Nothing gets hot anymore! Thanks again!

So like magic, I get an email from eastwood just now announcing "Free shipping to Canada" for orders over $99 Clearly they felt they had to do something given the policy change.

I'm sure I speak for the whole group when I say, We'd like to see each layer as you peel it away. There's something compelling about it. Kinda like peeling a sunburn or clearcoat.

What change? I'm not sure what change you're talking about. The 77 and 78 manuals both look the same as far as the links go. If you've got a 77 or 78, the links should look like this:

Zed Head, The pic you posted from MSA is one of the biggest contributors to the problems with the fusible link locations for 77. This diagram is wrong for the 77-78: I don't know where it started, but it probably started from the FSM wiring diagram for 1977. Nissan (seemingly) tried to lay the components out on the wiring diagrams kinds-sorta in the same positions they are located on the car. Problem is they screwed up the position of the black link. On the factory wiring diagram in the manual, it has the black link on the fender side back position near the firewall. But on the 77 car (I myself personally verified with a meter) that the black link should be on the fender side FRONT near the headlight. So Nissan never really said "This diagram correctly locates the link positions on the car", but it sure can be assumed that's the case. Problem is.... It's wrong. And others (like MSA) have been propagating that incorrect assumption ever since.

There was a 15 minute window for free shipping... and all their packages were coming via 737 Max 8's.....

When doing my own fuel system I did some research and found that hose clamps aren't recommended for braided line especially when using fuel injection. The line is too stiff and it doesn't compress well, I guess. Also there is a specific type of flare that is supposed to be used. I didn't have the tool to do the flare. I ended up using a compression fitting instead.

1:10 Rookie mistake #1 Never ever drain the oil before removing the fill plug.

And you can buy a defective one also. Guess how I know?

Looks like it would be right up @ConVerTT's alley! ?

Hi All, Yes, springs are attached. Not sure about the spacer and water response?. Spacer between carb to manifold? Not sure, I'll check. There are zero threads to adjust the ball linkage, would need to bend to shorten the length. Purchased that linkage, not original to the engine. Had to reinstall the old throttle linkage rod off the split balance tube on the early single tube. The single tube linkage rod was too short would not reach the linkage rod coupler from the firewall. It was my understanding on the balance linkage between carbs, only one balance adjustment screw (lower screw) was needed. Will disconnect the choke cables before cranking again. Thanks again for the info and advice.

Or they pull the plastic vent pipe out and fill there.

Hey Jeff, some people fill the diff by pulling a half shaft out the side. Top it up there and reinstall the half shaft.

For your convenience, here is @Zulaytr's manifold picture with the Eastwood "Calyx" dressing.

I think you've got a few things need fixing. First up is a big air leak that's making the mixture lean and causing revs to rise. Either the throttles or chokes are open, or the carb to manifold or manifold to head gaskets aren't sealing.

Check out the above series of posts about manifold finishes. Dan

I guess I’ll just surprise everyone.

Adjusting the valves may help those readings. 165 and above on all cylinders would be good.

Depends .... If this looks like fun, then s30 ... If this looks like fun, then z32 ....

Got my Rota's here in May 2017. https://www.18racing.com/collections/

That's cool. Never tried that and have been doing a lot of trenching at work lately. C