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Let me start this thread by saying that I was not looking to solve a mystery or bust a myth when I started this procedure. I just wanted to rebuild my tired old 76 280Z half-shafts! I think there was a very common myth that the S30 half-shafts were different sizes. The driver side being shorter than the passenger side. Even though the distance from the wheel hub to the differential differs (more-so with the R200) from side to side, the half-shafts are IDENTICAL! The amazing amount of lateral play in the shaft allows it to expand or contract almost three inches. ...on to the pics! First a shot of the shafts after I ran one through the media cabinet next to the other. The removal of the u-joints is straight forward, several well documented methods on line if you need help there. Now the science! Here you can see that the axles are identical in each dimension. Also note the layout of the snap rings, retaining rings and the balls and spacers. And for those that were still disbelieving, a shot of a 240 half-shaft next to the 280 half-shaft. 240 shaft with the u-joint still attached. Then on to refurbishing! You will need 4 new u-joints. SKF UJ393, MOOG 393, or Precision 393 will all work or any variation thereof. I media blasted the shafts and protected the bearing surfaces while doing so. I then painted the exposed parts in Cast Iron engine paint from Duplicolor. Love the look! I re-used the old boots as they were in great shape. After blasting the shafts and painting them, I turned the boots inside out and fed the wide side over the bearing shaft. I used the cut-off top of a funnel to aid the narrow end going over the shaft and up into position. Worked excellent. Leave the boot inside out for now. Slide the upper retaining ring and snap ring on to hold the shafts together, tuck them up by the boot. Refer to the above pic for proper order. Attach the lower retaining ring and snap ring. Put the cleaned spacers and bearings into a zip lock bag full of a good quality bearing grease and ensure they are coated nicely all around. Place them in the channels in the correct order, ball bearing at the bottom, spacer at the top. The grease will keep them in place. Add about 10g of grease to the top of each channel. Carefully slide the shaft back into the axle while ensuring the ball bearing and spacers are supported by the retaining tabs. Make sure the shaft is orientated correctly, the same direction as the axle end! Try and keep the bearings at the bottom of the assembly as it goes together. Holding it vertical helps. When the shaft is in the axle, add another 30g of grease to the top of the shaft, concentrating on the open groves of the axle that did not receive the bearings. Use the retaining ring to push it all together and seat the bearings. I used a screwdriver and hammer to tap the retaining ring flat. Worked great, didn't need much pressure. Reattach the snap ring to the axle at the top. Wipe up the grease you got everywhere... and pull the boot back down outside-in , ensuring the top fully inverts and seats in the groove, same as the bottom. Attach your favourite brand of cv boot clamp over the boot ends and securely tightly. Mine had not arrived in time for the pictures. Proceed on to installing the u-joints, being careful not to damage the pretty paint! Grease the u-joints and you are done! Another 40 years of glorious torque! Thanks to Jim @zKars for his guidance and wisdom.

@outlawswine A small thing, many of these threads get broken links in them months or years later when the pictures are no longer hosted where ever (photobucket sucks) If you upload them to the site. The administrators will make sure they last and others can learn from these threads with the pictures still present...

I bought my orange one in or around Cullman too. Some guys at Alabama Mustang had it trying to get it running for some doctor that lived on Smith Lake. EDIT: They tried to fix it but couldn't so they bought it really cheap then I bought it from them. They couldn't figure out the carbs and never got it running. When I got it home...

@outlawswine Don't get me wrong, I am not disparaging your Z. It is very complete and is a very good starting point for refreshment or restoration. My statement about the mileage is based on what I see that has been replaced on the car and the re-spray at 35,000. It is only my opinion, and I've been wrong about a lot of things in my years. Cliff ( @siteunseen ) is in Gadsden. He's a for real "wise guy" on these cars! I mean it! Honest!!

My 1970 Z has been in the family for nearly 49 years (4/70 build date). I was 9 years old when my dad brought the car home brand new and I distinctly remember the day. It was purchased in Florida (I have the original receipt), where dad worked on occasion, but driven to California where we lived for a number of years. My dad owned it and took excellent care of the car for about 38 years. He passed the car onto me several years before he passed away. The car is very original and mostly unrestored (I did clean up the engine bay). The paint is the original 49 year old factory paint job. The interior is pretty much untouched and still has the original uncracked dash, slightly worn seats, radio, carpet etc. Undercarriage, glass, chrome, and weather stripping are also all original and have never been removed. I don’t really do anything to the car other than drive it several times a year just to stretch it’s legs and keep things moving. It has pretty much been garaged it's entire life. The car still runs very smoothly and is a nice driver. It has a little over 98K miles on it.

My condolences. PM me and we can see if I can help

Same thing I said last night. My wife just looked and me and said: What are you up to now?!

Mine is 1/72 Negative battery pole disconnected, tap given with closed fist to the gauge, needle went tobñ center and viola ammeter working again. Thanks to all of you for your great help throughout these 4 years and exhaustive patience. Happy new year!

I should update the title of this thread to 'Z cars at the Concours and Museums'. My '70 is now on display at the San Diego Auto Museum. They have an exhibit that started Feb 2, 2019 called "Icons, Cars that Drove our Imagination" : https://sdautomuseum.org/exhibit/icons The Roadster is at the Petersen Museum: https://www.petersen.org/1969-datsun-1600-roadster/ Love that free storage!

Hey guys. I'm new to the Z car world. I inherited a "barn find" '73 240 this week. It was my grandfathers and it has been tucked away in his barn for 25 years. I had actually forgotten about the car. Anyway, it is mine now and I'm trying to figure out what to do with it. Should I restore it or just sell it. I don't have a tremendous amount of time to work on it so I'm kind of torn on what to do. It is completely all original. Interior is in good shape (needs a good cleaning). It only has 35k original miles and only a few spots of surface rust. I gave it a wash and it looks pretty solid. Planning on pulling the plugs tonight to be sure the engine will rotate. Anyway, looking forward to chatting with you guys. Here she is all cleaned up.....

I was at that race in Atlanta, with my favorite girl, eating leftover turkey and cranberry sandwiches from Thanksgiving.....on the Esses......seeing the Z’s crushing the other competition has never left my memories. I went out and bought a Z soon after. The rest is history.......John Morton and Pete Brock should get a commission for every Nissan I’ve bought since!

Thanks Gavin , it could be AU market car . Does AU market car have a set of “ lowered coil springs “ like Euro cars ? The car looks slightly lowered at front , the gap between the tire and the fender .Optional item chosen ? This morning I took my 240ZG as a commuter to an airport. In a cold rain dawn , but comfortable cabin . Kats

I believe that's how our Arkansas Jims got their Zs.

@Zup That is absolutely gorgeous. Well done!

Is that what y'all have planned for us. ?

It is interesting that the lash pad marks are in different places in the total rotation. To me this means that for some period of years the car would sit for a long time untouched and then someone would try to start it, rinse, repeat.

Looks good to me. I think I see where lobes were sitting on the rocker pads? No big deal though, that'll wear right off when it's running. Spray bar looks good, springs are all in place, you have a nice car from what I can tell. That 'rats nest' of crap around the carbs will clean up nicely and look much better. @Zup will be your new hero. He has a '73 we all kinda claim because it has won so many awards while wearing a Classic Z Cars "club jacket". Jim's (Zup} '73...

I pulled the plugs and I've got a little ATF working in the cylinders right now. Gonna let it sit overnight and see how we look in the morning. Just trying to get it to where I can rotate the crank by hand. While I'm waiting on the ATF to do its thing, I took @siteunseen and @jonathanrussells advice and took a peek under the valve cover and snapped a few pics. Here is a link to the valve train pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TPUxPWytVQs9eWK47

I guessed that! Auburn sticker on a 240Z, pharmacist. I know a guy in Vinemont that knows Zs inside and out. Whether he'll work on it is a different story though. He has a paint shop off a main highway, 157 maybe??? Anyway he's full of knowledge and likes to talk about Zs when he has time. If you do call him tell him you got his number from the guy that bought his red with white interior '72. Ray at Rays Restorations, 256-399-1077. If you haven't yet, don't try and crank it. You'll just crud up the fuel system. A 2 gallon gas jug will work and bypass the old fuel in the tank. Those older SUs are better to me, the float ears are the same length front and rear which makes set-up a lot easier. I'm on here everyday and more than willing to help when I can. Might ride over one day and try that "outlaws wine". We have a good brew house here, Auburn boys too, Back Forty Beer. You probably know them. Here's my OE 3 screw float lids. Longer in the front for going uphill and accelerating, keeps the bowl from overflowing but is a PITA to set the floats. I put two rear float bowl lids on mine and made life easier for a change. EDIT: Just read Jonathon's post, great advice. When you take the valve cover make sure the oil spray bar is good and healthy, not all loose or even worse broken. Cover the valve train with motor oil. take a picture of it too. These guys can tell if you have a gnat's footprint on the cam.

Awesome find. Personally, I would suggest getting it cleaned up and running safely and then drive it and see whether you like it or not. If yes, then do some more. If no, sell it. I would resist the temptation to take it apart and dig too deep. Do things like.... -Thoroughly clean interior...remove seats, carpet, clean, reinstall. - Drain, fill fuel tank. Go with ethanol free in my opinion. -Get the engine turning and running. Change engine oil and filter. Pull valve cover and inspect camshaft, rockers, etc. Don't adjust anything. Search and you will find threads on reviving an engine that has been sitting for a long time. - Pull the carb domes and carefully clean chambers (don't bend needles when you lift off piston), float bowls, etc. I suggest that you don't adjust anything. Be careful with the floats and the metal tabs they rest on. You don't want to change how those tabs are bent. Clean the needle jets and chokes. No need to remove the carbs from the manifold though. Add dampening oil (lots of places online to help you determine how much and what weight). - Change plugs, and make sure cap and rotor are okay. - Make sure the small vacuum hoses that connect to the timing advance work. - With luck, the above will get it running. After you get it running, tackle other things before driving. -Check timing, adjust. - Change diff and transmission oil. - Flush, bleed clutch master and slave. I would be surprised if these work without replacing. - Get brakes working. You are probably going to need to replace / rebuild everything. I would be surprised if you don't need to replace master cylinder, front calipers, and rear drum cylinders. Hard to predict whether the booster will work but you can drive without it. Just watch out for vacuum leaks caused by defective booster. If booster is broken, until you get a new one you can block off the vacuum line. - Check suspension for safety...ball joints, tie rod ends. Grease both until new flows out. - Flush antifreeze and make sure the car warms up and maintains temp. If not, dig in a bit. I would be surprised if the radiator isn't clogged. Basic stuff though- radiator, water pump, fan clutch, thermostat, temp sender for gauge. While you are at it, replace water hoses in engine bay. I would wait on the heater hoses until all of the above is working well, or until you really want to frustrate yourself. - Buy new tires, balanced, alignment (just front toe on these cars when stock). Above should get you a car that you can drive and decide whether Z's are your bag or not. One thing to watch for though. Usually cars that get put away get put away for a reason. A blown head gasket is a common reason. Hopefully not but just watch out as you get the thing running and driving. I am sure I left off lots of things that others can help fill in. I guess my key suggestion though is ...... don't start taking it apart and don't adjust stuff until you determine that something is out of adjustment.

I am a hoarder, so am somewhat biased, but finding another 35k mile 240z in the future you can afford will be a tall order. Provided you sell it... You could always find a better, dry place to store it for a few years until the business gets going a little bit.

I didn't see this before. Yeah, I don't remember all the details, but I went through the same thing with the first door lock I opened up. I know I used a couple little screwdrivers and other pointy tools, but I don't remember how many times I stabbed myself. I do know that I used screwdrivers and little chisels that I ground to shape to try to make the job easier, and while I did succeed, the face caps were a little ragged around the edge. The current set of tools of my pliers combined with the anvil holder have produced results good enough to re-use the face caps.

Cool find. Your decision is completely dependent on what you want and what you have time, money and motivation you have for a project. Do you want it to be a daily driver, a weekend cruiser? Old cars take time and space so you need to see if it fits your lifestyle and family situation now. I had wanted a project for the past 20+ years but with family, career, finances it was just not possible. I had too many other competing priorities. I bought a 280z after I retired from 24 yrs in the military and was ready and had time to tackle it. I’ve had lots of cool cars in the past that I wish I kept but you CAN’T keep them all. I had a 75 MGB, a 93 RX-7 and 69 Pontiac Malibu. I liked all of them but let them go for other priorities like reliable cars for work and family. The only one I really wish I kept was the 93 RX-7. You can always find your dream car in the future, you might pay more but I’ve learned it’s cheaper to pay for a car already redone than doing it yourself. If you love this car and have time and desire, then keep it. If you just thinks it’s okay, they you might not have the enduring motivation to see if through it’s resurrection, and you be throwing money at something you don’t love. If you think something else is more your preference then sell it and use the money for your other ventures until the time is right and then get exactly what your want. It’s had to throw $$ and time at something your don’t really love. I bought a 280z over a 240z mostly because of it higher availability in the marketplace. Other smaller factors were: less rust issues, increased design refinement of S30 to include engine, differential, tranny, accessories and reliability etc. I still love the look of the 240 over the 280 but minus the bumpers and changes in lights and badging it’s almost unnoticeable to the untrained eye. I’m always on the look out for a 240z. I wanna be like cliff (Siteunseen) and have both. I’m in the process of building a 5 car garage to fit my toys. If you decide to sell it, there are folks on this forum including me that would be interested. If you keep it, then enjoy it and take the advice of the people on this forum, they’ll lead you in the right direction. Good luck with the Brewery...it’s something I have always thought would be cool to do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow. I'd love to find something like that in my barn! Of course, I'd have to get a barn first, but... Details. Do you have documentation to support the 35K original miles claim? And do you have any pics of the underside? With all the rust on the stuff on the top side, I'd be most interested in what's going on underneath. I gotta get a barn...

I guess now i'm looking for a 280z

That is a great trick! I didn't think of that. I saw many videos on pulling the boot over the entire knuckle with a cone, but didn't want to damage the "unobtanium" boots that were in pristine shape. By turning them inside out, it also lets you clean out all the old grease easily. I will try and get a pic of the cut off portion of the funnel I used. Worked super well.

Boot Trick

Great work. Thanks for sharing! And just before someone else posts it >>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2nuPVTU4Z4

And that’s it for tonight! Whew...

SKF UJ393 or MOOG 393 or Precision 393. All of them have grease nipples. I have 3 SKF and one Precision u-joint. Best I could do as they ordered them in and they were all listed under the same part number at NAPA.

Just looked at the pics, that is in great shape for 25 yrs parked, some soap and water would bring back most of the interior. For me that would be a keeper, as soon as you sell it you're going to kick yourself. As a mechanic you already know that engine is going to need some TLC to get it going but with 35,000 miles it is just broken in. If you do decide to keep it there is a small army of guys willing to help with any problems that come up.

You aren’t the first Z owner to spend time on beer and whiskey ? Good to consider all the options. If you can see a future with the car, the returns could be enjoyed for years. The tough thing with an original car is balancing maintenance and upgrades with preserving its unique value. There’s plenty of wisdom around here to help with the process. Good luck with all your ventures!

looks like a good starting point. War Eagle!

I think this is what Zed Head was referring to. Go to post #8

Also the 280z is already an EFI car so easier to re-power with a more modern EFI engine. The tank and fuel system is already set for high pressure and return and the electrical system already has locations for ECU power and fuel pump power

Paint (clearcoat) is finished with color sanding and is now being polished. Will pick up car this Wednesday and get this into my garage. That is when the real fun begins.

I would suggest a 280Z. Many more and their value versus the bucks you'll spend hasn't risen like the 240s. Once you get the bumpers off they're pretty much the same body. If you plan a motor swap it's a mainly insignificant detail in my opinion. 240s have lower gearing to, you'll save some $$ with a 280 5 speed plus the r200 differential.

I'm ok with slow if the paint turns out like that!!! Looks great. I agree with Wheee!

Egg on my face! I thought Missouri was way far away but it's not. Maybe I can schedule that vacation and see Dolly Parton's... And go for a Missouri Boat Ride.

Hi Mike: First - Don't get near the car with a starting battery.... until you have everything ready to actually start the car. Can't tell you how many people damage a perfectly good engine, simply because they get in a hurry - and want to see if it will crank over, let alone start. You don't want to wipe out a good cam, or scuff the rings/cylinders by forcing crud, that's built up from sitting for prolonged periods past the rings or running dry cam lobes over their rockers... So lets hope no one had dinked with the car... before you got it... Did you get the hood open yet?... Prior To Start-up: 1. As mentioned, I'd drain the gas tank and see what comes out. If it's full of rusty partials - drop the tank and have it boiled out (some radiator repair shops off that service). Plan on replacing the old rubber fuel lines as well as the vapor recovery lines that run into the passenger compartment. You will more than likely have to do this anyway - as the vapor recovery lines leak gasoline vapor into the passenger compartment - and it will give you headaches and drive you out of the car. Do it now and be done with it. It's not fun, takes some time - but you'll be glad you did it all at once.... 2. As mentioned, replace all the fuel lines in the engine compartment. 3. No doubt you need to check the carb's for operation - the vacuum slides get stuck... pull them apart and clean them... The flat tops look odd - but they are pretty much the same as the earlier SU's.. as far a basic operation goes.. 4. Might as well replace the upper and lower radiator hoses - you'll have to do that anyway - do it now before you loose the fresh coolant you put in later. 5. Pull the spark plugs and poor a couple ounces of ATF in the cylinders... let it sit over night.. poor a little more in the next day... then - see if you can rotate the crank pulley by hand... if you have a large Strap Wrench it helps... of course you'll remove the old fan belt first - as you have already bought a new one... (when you bought the new hoses, oil, filter, coolant)... If you can't rock the crank back and forth by hand - put the car in low gear and push the car forward/backward (air the tires up and it's easier to hand push!). The idea here is to break the cylinder rings loose, and get some oil between them and cylinder walls. The ATF is very high detergent and very thin... Once you break the cylinders loose by rocking the car - poor a bit more ATF in the cylinders and see if you can now rock the engine back and forth by hand... 6 - Now drain the old oil - replace with fresh oil and new filter... 8. Install new NGK BP6ES spark plugs 9. Install new starting battery... and make sure that the oil battery cables are in good shape and very clean at the terminals.. 10. Remove the valve cover - and poor some clean oil over the cam lobes and rocker arm pads..replace the valve cover - (just check to be sure all the rockers are on/in-place..) 11. pull the wire from the coil - and crank the engine over rapidly - you should at least see the oil pressure gauge move... at least a little to indicate your getting oil pressure... replace the coil wire and crank it over - it will take a few seconds to get fuel though the new lines and into the carb.'s... USE THE CHOKE! (you almost always have to choke the old Z's to get them started when the engine is cold). If it doesn't start - then you can start checking for Fuel at the Carb.'s - and Spark at the plugs etc... From the picture - it looks like a car worth saving... good luck, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com