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It's for the S20 engine in the PS30 Fairlady Z432 and PS30-SB Fairlady Z432-R, which used transitorised ignition systems. The blue dot marks peak torque (5,600rpm) and the red dot marks peak power (7,000rpm).

Hi Gavin, I did not know people have been discussing about 10000 tach, I saw different type 10000 tach in that thread, is that a works racing car item ? Very interesting. Thanks Blue, I sent this picture to moelk , hope this can be used for his project. Kats I cleaned the lens which had a small hair scratching, now it’s gone !

Hah, I remember those days, Made Japan was a not good. I know China can make good quality when given a proper price point, I own a set of micrometers and a .000ths" dial gauge that are Chinese made and they are the finest measuring tools I own, beautiful quality, bought them about 25 yrs ago now. China's poor quality is the symptom, the problem is the West's insaitable hunger for more and more consumable stuff.

Assembly

Yeah it's not a big deal. It answered some questions, so not a loss. Now where do you think his nose has been? Just one! Light weight

This a group of friends. Everyone's trying to help here, no discontented jack wads.

Glad to have you and the others on this forum guiding me through this process otherwise I’d be in way over my head. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I can smooth out the idle for sure so I expect my drive will be fun. Going for a drive soon. Will report back. So the plan is to set her up to pass emissions testing standards (when its time) and dial her in to run good the rest of the time.

UPDATE So, I connected the "pot / rheostat" again and this time I got different results. So my hunch, at 2 a.m., was correct. Guess "maybe" the connector without the "pot" was not connected. It's the only reason I can come up with as to why things happened the way they did. Took some measurements today, they are as follows. Pot in closed position fully open position CTS cold reading CTS ECU harness CTS warm reading And I also measured 1.82 across the CTS ECU harness after warm.

Blue , or it was for an airplane. BTW, my friend who was S130 ‘BOSO ZOKU’ (wild street racers) really love 3.364 or 3.545 final gear for max speed competition. R180 / 3.364 is ordinary final gear for US & Canada , but it was naver available for Zs in Japan . Kats

Any pictures of this fitted? It looks fantastic!

Gents, I’m at a temp work stoppage. Got called into work and won’t be back until Thursday night. Pump almost made it in but a hose clamp broke so need to buy a new one. The fuel rail is sanded and painting just need to put it back together. Radiator arrives today so it will sit in the snow on my front porch for a day. Rebuilt original alternator will be ready to be picked up today too. I’m ordering those hex bolts for the injectors and buying new seals too. Still haven’t got that stubborn injector sure out yet either, Thanks for the fuel line and clamp tip. Lady at Auto Zome tried to sell me a non injection hose. Got 4 ft of the good stuff. After all this time and $, I hope this engine starts and is healthy enough to drive. I’ll be sad if it was all for nothing.

‘Auction fever’ , we see same thing in Japan , 74,000,000 yen for a tuna , 3,000,000 yen for a pair of melon , buyers wants to pay big money ‘ first auction of the year’ . This time BH auction was a kind of entertainment show for the first time in Japan, we saw those well organized auction only in overseas. I think we are way behind , but I am glad that now I can see that kind of auction here in Japan. Kats

I think this is a little optimistic. Maybe the goal was to get 200kph at 12 o'clock position?

Hi Patcon, yes , the blue dot for max torque at 5600 rpm , the red dot for max power at 7000 rpm, this is only for S20 engine i.e . Z432 and Z432- R. I do not know about Skyline GTRs, maybe some model year’s tach will be the same indication dot. Good question ! Thanks Alan. Kats

Cool much like respect has to be earned.

I don't think the vacuum advance is the reason for my issue, but a bad ignition module. When I first got the car back on the road, it ran strong for the next few drives. Then this hesitation set in. It's so stark, it really seems it's dropping cylinder. But the kicker is, finding that sweet spot where it accelerates nicely. Intriguing, yes, to me anyway.

He's started an ALADOG program around here. I got a smaller bottle, my Mom always said I was "half drunk". Can't let her down now.

I'm sorry Bob. At least you didn't spend too much and can be of help to others in the future. Bummer, but we learn from you. Cliff I got me a Bottle of Patron for this winter wizz storm. I'm chasing my dog around trying to lick his nose like he does me every frickin morning.

I'm running out of LIKES. Y'all are killing me. Cliff

There are 2 main approaches to the carpet. One is the factory pattern carpets.The other is more of a custom setup that usually covers the transmission tunnel and sometimes the rear strut towers. I am of course assuming "restore"means replacing. If not you could redye the carpet you have and respray vinyl to get good color. There was an older thread on the original supplier of the carpet kits @Zup If you do a custom kit they sometimes need massaging with heat to get them to fit properly

But how hard is it to **** up a rotor.... the easiest thing to make on a car? It is made with one metal, on tools that have been around for hundreds of years, it has no moving parts, yet they turn it into a polished turd by making it look like a rotor but use the worst steel known to mankind. The only lesson I learned is that the crooks at Napa sell $15 to $70 rotors that are all the same Chinese $^!#. None are worth buying.

There is no best way since Nissan does not sell carpet kit. You can purchase carpet kit at ebay that what I installed.

I'm old enough to remember back into the fifties when almost all things (especially toys) that came from Japan were crap. It didn't take but a decade or two for them to change that. South Korea, Viet Nam, etc are other examples. China has had a couple of decades to make a noticeable improvement. Unfortunately, I don't see much improvement.

Welcome pal. Cool car but your Dad is way cooler!

Kats, @moelk made very nice speedometer face plate reproductions on this thread:

Hey Kats, I also investigated recreating the works 10,000 rpm tach a while ago and found this site. http://www.ks-sp.co.jp/yonrin_nissan/z_s30.htm I used Adobe Illustrator to try and recreate the designs. Also created Z432 tach. Rally Clock. I wanted to clone the Works CDI box and associated parts. You can read more information I posted here a while ago. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/6719-factory-10000rpm-tachometer/page-3

They do seem to be rising rapidly. https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1971-Datsun-240Z Not so for the 280Z's though. Maybe later... https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1976-Datsun-280Z

I believe it is a little bit auction fever and a little bit of speculation on the rising interest in series 1 and 2 Z cars. One of Les Canaday's restorations recently went for over 70K. He contacted me and said that a auction house in NY was looking for one with provenance to auction off. I appreciated the lead from Les, but I am not ready to let mine go. The values seem to be rising quickly on these cars. I did recently watch an investment program that suggested that if you are holding a classic car as an investment you might consider selling it soon. His reasoning was that the next generation unlike the boomers do not care about or long for the cars of their youth. I don't agree or disagree, just found it interesting.

I think it's an example of 'Auction Fever', Kats. A typical perfect storm of unwarranted hype ("Barn Find", 'Vintage Z', 'Famous-in-Japan owner') and timing (big hoo-ha auction connected to Tokyo Auto Salon, so all the big car guys are 'in town'...) that is hard to replicate. Elsewhere people are marvelling at the price achieved for the 10km-from-new R34 GT-R too, and thinking - probably mistakenly - that it makes their R34 GT-R equally as valuable. Truth be told, better Zs than the two VZ cars could be bought at much lower prices, but the buyer(s) likely don't really know or even care. It's often the case in car auctions, and I hate them. At least the people at a livestock auction know something about what they are buying... Yes, I feel a bit sorry for the cars too but I feel even more sorry for the KPGC10s and PS30s that went across the block in the USA over the last couple of years. Matthew 7:6 "Do not give what is holy to the dogs, nor cast your pearls before swine, lest they trample them under your feet and turn and tear you to pieces".

From the school of lessons learned, it is far easier to install the door window without the frame in place. Dropping in the frame after the window is in and settled in with the regulator is pretty straightforward. Also, by removing the frame you get to inspect all of the channel materials, replace as might be required. New ones make a world of difference in a snug fit for the glass.

Tested my new metal replica Fairlady hood emblem. (Oem emblem to the right for comparison)

Hi all-so I have my 240Z almost completely blown apart to prep for paint, and most of the gapping looks pretty good to me, however, I have one outlier: the passenger corner of my hood sits about 1cm high, and about .5 cm forward, from where I'd like it to be. Looking around, I don't think I can shift the headlight panel without displacing the gapping somewhere else. If I could get the hood to just sit LOWER at the front right corner, that'd mostly do what I want. I have the bumper and grill off, so I can access the hinge bolts with the hood closed easily. I tried gently to loosen the bolts that hold the hood to the hinge(can't shift it), as well as the bolts that hold the hinge to the body(also, wouldnt shift), and had no luck. It's possible I didn't loosen them enough-Maybe 2-3 full turns?-I didn't want the whole hood to start swimming. Any tips for gently sliding the hood hinges around a bit? Thanks!

Where have the mice been living while you've been remodeling their home?

I recently ordered a set of the "improved" door Precision weatherstrip from Motorsport Auto (just the door, not the complete set), and the weatherstrip I received was still too thick and stiff. I had been living with the Precision weatherstrip since 2006 but last fall I broke my second door handle. Given that the new weatherstrip was still unsuitable, I decided enough was enough. Yesterday, I went to a local auto salvage yard and got two sets of front weatherstrip off a 2001ish KIA Sportage ($10). OMG the weatherstrip is awesome! I wish I'd done this years ago! No more slamming the door to close and one finger to open. The only negative is that the stiff part that clamps to the door opening is slightly wider then the stock, so the sill trim does not fit as well as it did before (I might try tweaking the sill trim later). I washed my car yesterday and sprayed water around the door opening and no leaks! Do yourself a favour, if you need new weatherstrip, don't waist time and money trying to make the Precision weatherstrip work, just go with the KIA Sportage weatherstrip.

Seal go betwen two fixed pieces, like windsheild & frame, 1/4 window & frame, fender & body. weatherstrips go betweeen moveable parts like doors & body, side window & frame.