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Good topic. From what I've experienced, Facebook is designed mainly for social activity. They are funded by selling your information and usage statistics to other companies and advertising. It's designed mainly for social activities and short-term (surface level) gain. Forums used to focus on social activity, but the big guys have given this to the masses. Since this shift has occurred, the forum sites have moved to long-term support, deeper relationships, and archival for the community. At one time I worried about the social media sites, but, now I am glad they have taken all the riff-raff and so we get to focus on more important issues. Facebook does have its place, of course. It just doesn't work for a car club, other than announcing events and keeping in touch. If you want a deep relationship and real help, join the forum. Mike

We need to come up with a guide line for flow rate, not pressure. Pressure just needs to be in a range between 0 and whatever your needle valves wil hold without letting fuel through. New ones might hold 5 psi. 2 or 3 psi is usually fine for all but the most beaten up needles and seats. What matters is being able to supply enough fuel volume coming in, to refill the volume leaving the bowl and going into the engine. And to do it across the entire engine operating range. Had a lovely roadster with a cheap electrical pump that drove the owner carzy with what acted like fuel starvation, but because that lovely pressure gauge said 3 psi, he wouldn't believe it had anything to do with fuel supply. He even changed the distributor. Until I took the line off the carb and watched fuel barely dribble into a yogurt container... Put my finger over the end of the tubing and it stopped the pump dead. New pump, car ran like a champ. And it's a system. If the lines are plugged, or the fuel filter is dirty, or the tank has crud that gets intermittently sucked in, a great pump (at either end, electrical or mechical) is not going to be able to do its job.

They didn't take all the riff-raff

Yeah mine was okay too but after the fuel tank rehab I went all new when possible. Don't like going back, cars, girls, jobs.

The Sheriff needs to hand in his badge and the 'Appraiser' needs to get another job. The two of them could get hitched and go to live in a banana republic somewhere. Venezuela might suit them. I think it's fair to say that in any country that takes classic cars seriously - and I think that includes the USA - it's the chassis number stamped or engraved into the bodyshell (by the Factory...) that counts. That's certainly the case for Nissan and the S30-series Z . Door jamb tags, dash tags and engine bay tags are all moveable feasts, and do not trump the firewall-engraved prefix and body serial number combo that was applied by the Factory when the car was being made. Without getting into the philosophical discussion of what actually constitutes 'a car', it is generally accepted that 'the car' in your case will be the thing that has the firewall-engraved chassis number. At this point, it looks to me as though you don't actually have full and correct ownership of that. I'd consider that a big problem...

Jerry, I am digging for my source information, but here is my understanding of thinner-headed fender bolts. Early cars that had the FRP (fiber reinforced plastic), or fiberglass, headlight housings used, at the discretion of the assembly worker, thinner headed bolts, along with lock and flat washers to secure these housings to the inner fender. The reasoning for using these was because the FRP housings had a thicker profile than stamped metal housings which could reduce the hood clearance to the FRP headlight housing bolts and possibly damage the hood. Two bolts on each headlight housing would be required. The other six, three per fender, fender bolts had standard size heads. Some of the flat washers for these six bolts also could have used flat washers with one side trimmed flat. This was to avoid damage to the flared contour of the fender inner lip. Hope this helps. Dan

Saw this. Claims to be 1 of 2 built and the last to survive. https://www.motorcarclassics.com/1972-datsun-240z-c-67.htm

You know you've been in Z car world for a long time when you can easily use "distance piece" in a sentence without pause. That's a good discussion winner there zKars. I still like my "basics of ball bearings" approach though.

What a great pic. Jim II, I absolutely love those wheels.

If the 3 in 1 is thicker than the ATF, try that. Personally, I'd throw some 30 wt into them just to see what difference it makes, then I'd try 20 wt. I suspect one of the reasons that there isn't one wt. oil that works for everyone is wear (increased clearances) in the carbs. In the many posts I've read on the subject of SU oil, The opinions run from A to Zed. Racers that run no oil to a gentleman that used 80w-90w gear oil and swore it was best. Don't be afraid to experiment.

Couldn't agree with you more Capt. .........This looks like a $15,000.00 car to me.....dream on Motorcarclassics.

That was my first thought as well. Last one of fifty produced, huh? Prove it. Unless you can produce definitive documentation to prove it IS in fact what they say it is, then it's just a 72 with a history of crappy paint jobs. The thing that really bothers me about a car and claim like that is... OK, so they think it's something really special. If it's really THAT special, wouldn't you take the time and put forth the effort and cost to put paint and other finishing touches on it that's commensurate to the uniqueness of the specimen? They say in the description: "only one of the 50 duplicate O.M.S. Pace Cars has been found, and the sole survivor is the car we have to offer you. The original owner tired of the graphics and painted it with a Jaguar Burgundy. The car was pulled out of storage and sold to a friend of the owner in 2007, who began its restoration. Photos show layers of paint being peeled away revealing the original O.M.S. Blue and White colors from 1972." If they peeled the paint away, then why is there still burgundy overspray in the engine compartment? You see it? Over near the blue overspray? There are several members of this forum who put their cars on a rotisserie and stripped to bare metal and did a real nice paint job. And that's just for their "driver" car. Not one of fifty of something supposedly this unique!

I'm gonna have to try this. I have a low rpm stumble.

Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid. Remove dust cap from bleed screw.....slide tube onto bleed screw and up into reservoir. Open bleed screw and get helper to slower push in clutch pedal until no bubbles. Lock bleed screw.

Well I am glad we finally have our answer! I am contemplating taking it apart I really don't want to though lol. I do have a press and bearing puller but lacking the rest of the tools needed to get this all apart. When every thing is assembled it really shift and feels fine so i'm not 100% sold on fixing it since its only reverse thats really effected and seems to shift great regardless, but I can see the need to fix it... Ohhh what joy

I trust the forum. Facebook is a business to make money. The forum is a group of friends helping each other. I like that.

Good IDea. Thanks for the INfo. With Redwing, my Dad always replaced his tires off his Mercedes wayyyyy before he needed to. So Redwing got his take offs that I ran about 2 years longer. Good deal for me!

I have a bigger one right off the compressor but the one that helped me the most goes before the gun. Bought it Lowes and has a valve core I press to release the water. Made painting, sandblasting so much better.

From what I have been told the upper front fender bolts (next to hood) are special 6X10mm in that they have a thinner head than standard. Is this true. If so, source?