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The Hagerty and other Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Value Guides - are all based on Pure Stock examples. As they left either the Factory or the Show Room Floor. If the subject vehicle isn’t pure Stock - the values there really don’t directly apply. They do however give us one benchmark to consider, but in general any modifications or variations reduce the market values. (of course we can all quote exceptions to any/all rules). If this 240Z had actually been Restored to Concours Quality #1/#2 standards - $45K to $55K today and sold to a private collector pretty quickly. As nice and beautiful as it is.. it is still a high end Enthusiast 240Z (Condition #3).. reach the right buyer that loves the Metallic Brown, loves the one previous owner status along with the original documents… it should bring $25K to $30K fairly quickly. It is in a good market area - Lexington is an easy reach from most of the Central and Eastern population. Start with a one owner 73 always garage kept and well cared for..with relatively low mileage (less than 100K), rust free body in very presentable condition - easy $18K to $21K.. then add a couple years work and another $30K to completely refresh it - you might be able to duplicate this one. $25K to $30K would be a bargain. I believe more people are starting to realize it at this point. I wouldn’t be afraid to put it on BAT with a reserve of $30K… I'll run it by a few people I know.. see if there is any interest .. good luck, Carl B. Oh... AGREED - good photos sell 240Z's - get it up on a lift and get good undercarriage photos.. very important..

A 4-H Pig call winner, all the way from Nova Scotia! That's damn good Jim.

Here's the one I bought. Resolution on a PC is 1280 x 720 wich is pretty darned good. Waterproof as well. Works with Android 4.0 OS and above and Windows XP and above. Smart Phone must have OTG function. Don't know if it works with IPhone, because Apple has proprietary software. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-5-7mm-Digital-USB-For-Android-Borescope-Endoscope-Inspection-Waterproof-Camera-/162214076703?var=&hash=item25c4b6611f

May be this will help... the Pads are different widths for the Solid vs Vented Rotors. I have the vented rotors on the BRE Z - with American LeMans 14x7's.. no problem with clearance.

@240260280 Me too!!!

SOOOOOOiiiieeee! Come on down!! Your "Good news" made my day!

Good news. We decided to pass on F1 in Montreal for Austin ZCon.... Double trouble coming at you from NS.

I'm posting a new thread hoping to get some feed back (Thinking about freshening up my suspension). If you have been there done this or know without a doubt the facts, please respond. My ASE mechanic friend and I just spent 6 hours trying to put the rear end/suspension back in to my car, a 1975. I am no further now then I was when I started, just frustrated and pissed. It should not have taken 2 hours tops. Long story, short... I removed the sleeves out of the mustache bar in preperation for my Prothane kit and now realize I should'nt have. I waited 2 weeks for new Oem bushings that are probably on indefinate back order and decided to purchase a used mustache bar instead. Here is the catch, I have a r200 rear differential that requires the r200 mustache bar, but I was told by Z Car Source where I bought it from that the cheaper r180 bar will work fine if you oval out the diff mounting holes and use a lock washer, cool. I am not cheap nor am I trying to cut corners but I knew I could oval out the holes in 5 minutes which I did and be good to go. First of all, the bars look nothing alike. Second, the r200 is much heavier. So, here's the problem.... there is no way that I can find to get the rear control arms to line up with where the bushings fit in. On a 75 the mustache bar mounts backwards from earlier years, I tried both ways. I tried swithing the U shaped bracket around that hangs down behind the diff, I tried it every which way. In the end we feel that we tried every different scenario. Tell me I'm not crazy, has anybody swapped out mustache bars from a r200 to a r180?????

I recently aquired this because I hate spot welds and I thought it might help out. I found this one at a great deal on Ebay. We will see... Air powered and has a rear lever for applying pressure. Adjustable depth, so you can just drill through the top layer(s)

Replaced all fuel hose with new and used stainless steel clamps. The diameter of the new hose was too small for the old clamps and all of them had to be replaced. It was also a good time to replace the fuel pressure regulators and filter. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Well you better take care of it quickly or I'll have to call the Z Police! Just a shame that Nissan had to hang those big chunks of steel out there to meet some safety code.......sure futzed up a beautiful design eh? People should buy cars to drive.....not to crash!!!

here are a few pics - no comments on my filthy bay please! it's winter and i drive her every day... kinda hard to see, so i've included a set w/notes to call out the fuel system. i cut the steel feed line from the tank/pump and bent it up 90 at the firewall, then used rubber line up to the filter. i removed the evap canister and left the steel vent/return line in place and just capped it w/a bolt in a piece of rubber hose clamped onto the end. as for the fuel pump - i used a little electric airtex unit mounted in place of the original (above passenger side rear wheel) and used the efi pump wiring to power it. the fuel filter is by "filter king" and comes in a variety of configurations - i got it w/the feed from bottom left and output from right horizontal to follow the path of my lines. comes with a little mounting bracket to fasten it to the firewall and it has a built-in adjustable diaphragm-style pressure regulator (adjustment screw on the top) i like the glass bowl - easy to see when to change the paper filter (i also have an inline paper filter at the tank, which i change every 4-6 months). you can also see i used some flexible aluminum heat shield around the vacuum line for the brake booster as it's above the exhaust outlet and gets hot. i actually bent up a piece of steel tube (old bits from the original efi rail) and slid it inside the rubber vacuum hose b/c when it got hot i noticed it would collapse. also used the same shield material on the pcv hose. the vacuum balance tube is a stock unit that i cut off all the egr and other crap, welded up the holes and ground/polished to look like a euro-style tube. i left one port on top for the vacuum gauge and fed the brake booster from the end. let me know if you have any other questions - i can't tell you how happy i am w/these little carbs, as they work fantastic and are sooooo simple. i never could get the stock efi to work right w/my modified engine and exhaust, and the su's do the job with no drama.

I used to run RT615K's on my race car. Not a bad tire, but pretty out of date now. They haven't made any major changes in about five years, while the competition have all come out with several new versions in that time. Check out the Dunlop Star Spec. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Direzza+ZII+Star+Spec&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=245WR6Z2SS&tab=Sizes

I'm always impressed by how fast and tidy you manage to work through these panel repair jobs! Big thumbs up. For humor value, I thought you might enjoy this picture that will illustrate how those pine cones manged to find their way into the car's fresh air ducts... (This was a very hard-working squirrel!)

Yeah baby! Looking forward to re-connecting with friends from Memphis and expanding the circle with new CZCC friends.

The Black pad is old Nissan , the green pad is aftermarket ," Project μ ". I just installed one pad to see fittings of all the assorted parts. Kats

When we started out the car was just about on empty. Jai did not fill the tank, she just put in a couple of gallons. It started up just fine and very shortly after, like 500 ft., it just shut down suddenly like you mentioned, like turning it off. No rough running. We waited about 5-10 mins and it fired back up. These are the very same symptoms that happened before. I'm seriously thinking that there might be water in her tank again and it should probably be drained like ZH mentioned. Until that happens, I've read that putting in a bottle of 100% isopropyl alcohol should help displace the water. You can go to the dollar store or where ever and get is for less than a dollar. Jai, don't worry about the Dist cap. I don't think it will make a difference just yet. The clutch is in more need.

Thank you Carl, that is very useful information. I measured my caliper, let's compare them. And Victory 50 is selling some parts, http://victory50.com/index2.html Also Kameari Engine works has a vented disc , http://www.kameariengineworks.co.jp/Catalogue-v3/catalogue-075-20160731.pdf Kats

That would be a hot seller

The early Z's had a distributor cap that was visibly smaller from the later ones, maybe there was a mix up.

Well this is a subject that I leave to guys that understand it but I'm pretty sure megasquirt has this algorithm that combines the TPS, air and coolant temp to form a map that allows multiple ITBs like mine to function properly. Matt didn't seem to have any problem tuning the engine back in the summer. I'm probably not mentioning some other key sensor that ties it all together. Jumped in today and started installing patches, bracing and working on the stitch welds.

I bought this used splash pan a few weeks ago. It obviously needs to be cleaned up and painted. It would take some work to fabricate a pan with similar dimensions, but no one is making new pans that I'm aware of. Robert S.

Yes, it's the "Brain", perfect!!

@siteunseen Cliff, That avatar is perfect for you!!!!

Got the master cylinder swapped over. Now I can move it out for a wash, tomorrow we ride.

I'm probably the last person on the planet to figure this out, but I was thinking some more about the geometry of the plastigage and what happens when you crush it. As you decrease the thickness and extrude that material into additional width, the change in width is non-linear. The amount that the width changes will go up faster as the thickness decreases: You can see this phenomenon in the reference stripes on the plastigage package. I'm sure you already knew this, but for example, that's why the width change between .003 and .002 is much smaller than the width change between .0015 and .001. I do have a point though, and that point is that you are much closer to .0015 than you are to .002. Still within spec though, so the binding is curious. Of course, the whole spec is only applicable to a crank that is perfectly round, a rod that is perfectly round, and bearings that are perfect consistent thickness in every location. Any high spot or oval anomaly anywhere could miss the gage, but cause the bind. It's too bad they haven't come up with a plastigage that allows you to spin the crank WHILE the plastic is in there and still get an accurate reading. There's a product idea for you. Not that it matters now, but I assume you tried that rod in other locations and the issue followed the rod? I also assume you tried swapping the rod bearings around and same thing. Didn't follow the bearing, but followed the rods? About a torque spec for the force required to spin the crank, I'm not aware of anything.

Thank you for the info guys! I knew Mike was not going to be doing anymore plastic chroming. Luckily the center caps are in pretty good shape and I will see what I can do about brightening them up a little. I just spoke to Cen-Tex plating in south Austin as I had sent them the pictures above. Just a ball park he could give me over the phone was $50 - $60/each or $240/set. He walked me through everything they would do from stripping, to blasting, the multiple coatings, and polishing and $60 each sounds very fair. Since they are open on Monday and I am off I am planning to make the drive down, get a quote in writing, and drop them off. There is a 3-week lead time so this would still put me in good shape for ZCON. I will keep you posted.

Zup's is a lot more silver since last Saturday

Just got a text from the guy I sold it to. No more rust, repainted exterior and some interior. All new weatherstripping and shined up wheels. Looks good and he is very happy with it. Here's what it did look like, 110.zip