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We had one of each as well! We were able to hammer one out using a drift without too much effort. The second spindle pin wouldn't budge. We cut the spindle pin in two places to seperate the strut assembly from the rear control arm and Dave will be taking the piece to a local shop to have the spindle pin pieces pressed out. Overall, not too bad.

The hose from the valve cover should release plenty of pressure, I'd think. The crankcase and valve cover are essentially the same cavity. Hope is good, but that #6 number is pretty low and shows all the signs of bad rings.

The ad was right, there is more future in a Datsun! As the existence of the site has proven.

Give the man a cigar. I hadn't considered the "Band-aid" theory. It's the one that makes the most sense. We screwed around with catch cans, pan baffles and windage trays on dragsters in the sixties. Even tried blocking it all off and sealing the crankcase. Oil started seeping out of any place it could. If the air being pushed and pulled up and down under pistons wasn't enough the added pressure from leakage past the rings all had to go somewhere and it did. The best catch cans were made from a windshield washer reservoir bottle. Slide in, slide out bracket made it easy to clean.

Here's an adjustment article you might find a tip or two in. https://web.archive.org/web/20080720024048/http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=12&uid=786489&gid=1803105 And my tip is to make a board with the exhaust and intake info, mark them off as you do them because you can do two at a time with very little movement of the cam but it skips around. So it's a lot quicker than doing #1 through #12. Another thing I did was make a center mark on the front cam tower, our motors tilt to the passenger's side and you have to get the lobe pointed straight up from the tilted motor, not looking straight on at it. An empty beer case works good for me and are plentiful around here. Stick it under the passenger's wiper blade.

Production car racing in Australia in the early '70's.

While I was looking at it earlier, the thought came to my mind that I only needed about 1/2" or so more room. Then I discovered that there are such things as fan spacers. That may be another option. I am just weary of taking more stuff apart that could potentially cause unneeded problems, especially if I don't have to. I have time to think about it though.. I appreciate the replies.

Good morning! Well, exhaust valve lash was tight. I could not get the .008 feeler in there at all. I didn't try anything smaller. Tonight I'm going to try and do my first valve adjustment, put everything back together and drive it. See how she runs for a little bit and then do another compression check after I drive it real good as zed head suggested. I bought what I needed to build a crankcase evacuation system that will route the extra blowby out of the exhaust. I'm thinking/hoping that the ring isn't seated due to not having any sort of vacuum from the crankcase and the pcv was capped and that uncapping the pcv and installing the evacuation kit might help seat a ring. It may work it may not. My friend has a bore scope and we will take a look in there and see what we can see. One of the reasons I bought the car was to have fun and wrench on it myself, so that's what I'm gonna do. I'll get the books on Amazon and use my friend and his tools when I get to that "defeated" point. I really appreciate all the help and motivation. I've been browsing Z forums for a while, there is a reason I joined this one. I work A LOT and have two small kids that are a lot of work right now (they need their own valve adjustments) I will keep you all updated on any progress. Cheers. Zach

About $26 at McMaster for an M20 x 1.5 right hand die. http://www.mcmaster.com/#2573a81/=11xeukh But I agree with Zed Head above... Unless you really, really mangled a number of threads, I'd just file the damaged portions roughly back into "shape" with a triangle file and call it a day. If the nut threads on smooth past the damaged spot(s), then you're good.

Better results today doing the panel I should have started with yesterday. The rear panel on the driver's side is curved, but only in one direction, so it's basically a flat piece. 30 minutes for this one, and it came out quite nice. The toughest part is getting the sheet down flat so it doesn't wrinkle, but it's workable if you go slowly. Did a little practice with some scraps on the tougher shapes, because I'm out of easy bits to wrap now! Panel looks good installed, except for the part that got nicked up on the hatch support. Another entry in the What Did You Think Was Gonna Happen!? file.

Nice work. Looks almost new.

What I thought too. The bolts do have a flat on the bolt head as if it had a washer. I am going to install the new cam and torque down as is.

Sebring 12-hour, 1972. Ross Racing Ltd. Craig Ross and Jacques Groleau in front of the Kirk F. White Motor Racing Ferrari driven by David Hobbs and Skip Scott. The Ferrari DNF'd and the Z did not complete enough laps to be classified (138 laps behind the leader)

A follow-up thought - #6 is typically the detonation cylinder. Where head gaskets blow and rings break. Mis-set timing, low octane fuel, overheating; could be the cause of the problem. Doesn't help fix it but might help focus. Unless oil splashed up on to the valve seats, which seems unlikely at low cranking RPM, the oil in the cylinder raising pressure still points to rings. If it were my problem, I'd use a borescope to check for cylinder damage first. If there is none, and it runs well, and you get lash set right, take it out for an "Italian tune-up". Nothing to lose. Sometimes people baby their new motors when they should be using them to break them in right.

marvel mystery oil. not sure why you'd have a stuck ring on a motor this clean/new. usually rings stick from carbon or glazing/varnish. the best possible scenario would be the ring gaps lined up, which still requires pulling the piston (see my previous post). some tools you will need and want to have for this work and in general for L6 maintenance: crowsfoot spanner for valve lash adjust (cheap) feeler gauge for lash adjust (cheap) plastic slip-in tool to keep cam chain tensioner from popping when you remove the head (cheap) ring compressor (cheap) torque wrench (spend $$ here and get a really good one, it's an invaluable tool for all mechanics - get the kind that "click" vs. the ones that "flex") jack stands (always on a good concrete surface!!) so you can get underneath and pull the oil pan. don't risk your life w/cinder blocks or wood... "how to rebuild your nissan & datson OHC engine" by tom monroe - get it, read it and be liberated to do anything you need on this simple motor parts you'll need to do the work: head gasket (get a good one - lots of info here on this site) pan gasket ring set (maybe...) this can be a fun adventure in learning quite a bit about your engine and nothing involved is beyond the home mechanic if you get the tools and read the book.

You should always give a number where measurements are involved. "Out" isn't enough. The locknut can be very difficult to loosen and you can break other things,including your knuckles when it does come loose. I use a small sledge hammer to tap on a wrench to break them loose. The mass does the job without much overshoot. The cam lobe does look like it has wear on the base circle which would imply the lash is too tight, or non-existent. That can burn a valve. If you're set on doing it yourself we can come up with a bunch of tricks. But if you have a friend with experience, you'll probably learn more and be ahead in the end if you let him do it. You might just get the valves adjusted then go drive it hard to reset things and break any stuck rings loose. Inertia, heat and high energy fuel burns at 5500 RPM should loosen anything stuck, on a running engine. I think those magic oils might have an effect on an old rusty engine that hasn't run for a while but you're way past that. Could be the engine's hard to turn because it's not fully broken in yet.

one more silver Z Casey

Site & gang o' beautiful ZZZZZ'z, My photos are not nearly as nice as yours----but here is one that sorta works. Thanks for thinking of me!

I'd buy one too. Here is another pic. 1974 260z

I'd buy one. Can Tech Z, that first pic of your Z sure makes me pine for my old stomping grounds, I don't miss the rain but sure miss those mountains.

1973 Bathurst