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Still struggling with car at idle after 8 years


jalexquijano

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Didn't read of anyone telling to be very careful with the domes and those needles.. they are normally not removed by "unqualified personnel" , so be careful.

Then.. I think it's not uncommon to have some difference in the carbs.. Normally they are on 2,5 rounds clockwise (seen from above) but you could open the front carb a bit more, but first as Gundee says, look for a leak in air..  Also look if the pistons come up equal when you rev the engine to say 2-3000 rpm. (you can see them when the filter is off)

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13 minutes ago, gundee said:

I do not think float issue at all from what I see.

A float a little off does not make plugs on that carb white.

Put the thing back together.

What is that item doing that I circled above?

Nothing. Its unplugged. What about trying to adjust the floats more using float sync i purchased in 2020?

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42 minutes ago, jalexquijano said:

Nothing. Its unplugged. What about trying to adjust the floats more using float sync i purchased in 2020?

Nothing wrong with checking that front float. It seems to me it would have to be stuck in a very high

position as to allow only a bit of fuel into the bowl.

Lack of fuel or too much air in the front carb. = lean.

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On 10/15/2023 at 3:59 PM, jalexquijano said:

Took the car out today car was misfire all the way. Guess problem has spread to the other spark plugs and car misfire all the way. I tried to step on the gas to see of by speeding the plugs would clear up but no luck. Guess its time to open this engine. Anyone has a different view?

20231015_173639.jpg

20231015_173555.jpg

Gundee already mentioned this but one cylinder does not seem to be getting spark.  It's not firing.  That's why it's clean.  I'd fix that before going any farther.  No real value in tuning for five cylinders.

And if one cylinder is completely sparkless it kind of makes you wonder if the others are getting consistent spark.

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3 hours ago, gundee said:

Nothing wrong with checking that front float. It seems to me it would have to be stuck in a very high

position as to allow only a bit of fuel into the bowl.

Lack of fuel or too much air in the front carb. = lean.

This was the last measurement in 2020 during pandemic. Front and rear carbs

Screenshot_20231101_141815_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20231101_141515_Gallery.jpg

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@jalexquijano Thanks for the needle pics. It appears the needles are set to the same depth. I can't be sure about the float levels without some sort of measurement but they appear to be the same height😊. Let's assume, for now, that they're correct or close enough.

  Last year, when #4 was fouling, I had convinced myself that the problem was somewhere in the rotor, cap, wire, or plug connection because all parts were new and of good quality. Now the problem seems to have spread to 3 cylinders. One question. Are you using anti-seize on the plug threads?

 As I recall you have a multi-meter. Unplug the #1 plug wire from the plug and cap. Remove the #1 plug from the head and plug the wire into it. Measure the resistance from the cap end of the wire to the spark plug center electrode. Log it on paper and reassemble #1. Now go through the other cylinders and log those too. I can't tell you what they should be. What we're looking for is a glaring difference. 

 

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For perspective typical resistance per foot (305mm):


Copper core wire: 1-6,500 ohms
Inductive wire: 650-2,500 ohms
Carbon core wire: 3,000-7,000 ohms

Each lead is a slightly different length, so you will get variations but as Mark says - what we are looking for is numbers close in range.

Edited by AK260
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