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You can do final torque to the center nut after installation of the strut assy on the car. That way, the three insulator studs are held firm by the car body and you can get a good torque on the enter nut. So keep an eye (or ear) on it and if the clunk develops again, it's quick and easy to snug those center nuts while on the car. If if happens again and torquing those nuts takes care of the issue, it might be time to get some new vibration resistant center nuts. Replacing those nuts is easy with the car on the ground... The weight of the car will keep the springs compressed and you can take that center nut completely off and replace it. Buzz one off, buzz new one on. Easy peasy.

I like stock cars but I also like modified cars. I like it when hybrid cars use a driveline from the same manufacturer. If I didn't have so many projects I would consider taking that one on...

Both upper reds operate as side lights and brake lights.

I've looked into that. The costs into manufacturing it aren't light from What I've seen so far. I will have another look.

Sorry Yarb, I still don't grok. Don't make me discorporate!

The door latches I used Tail light chrome pieces. They weren't very flat. So I heated them slightly to reshape them. I did cause some wrinkling in the finish on the one that was pretty warped. I probably should have sent them back and exchanged them but for now it's fine Bought some washer to hold the trims on Installed Some butyl to hold the lens in The center post of the chrome is supposed to be long enough to go all the way through the back and get another star washer. The posts on my repops aren't long enough for that. So hopefully the lens don't fall out Felts for the bottom lens drains Shop dog More Belmetric Lights in place Finishers Badges, because everyone knows badges make cars run better!! ;)

Yeah, I like that Turbo 930

My '77 has that wide B like you're talking about and I got one out of a '79 2+2 that I put in my '72 and am really happy with it. Never use 5th around here but it's a game changer on the interstate roads.

I could sure use a 3d print file for the vertical base part of the mirror

I thought that was the name of the Farmers union?

Nice and clean very pretty i just wet myself....

Finally got the clock back after 10 weeks!!! (instrumentworks) and was able to get the dash back in place. I should have replaced the bulbs in the rest of the cluster but was too tired of waiting and got lazy on that job. The rest of the cluster is a bit dim but I am not taking the dash out again. Experience ... putting the dash back in and connecting that speedo cable was the most difficult job on this car in my opinion. I recommend anyone taking the dash and putting the windshield gasket together to put the dash in first. Installing the windshield with the rope method is extremely easy and can be done after the dash is installed. For reference I was able to find this extended length pliers to tighten the cable on the speedometer else there is no room from the bottom to reach out to it with hand. It is impossible to tighten it all the way. I was able to barely put it on with my hand with just couple of turns to keep steady, then use pliers. With the windshield off it might be more easy to reach to the speedocable from the back/windshield side.

Post up the serial number and any information about mileage. And if it's complete: carbs, manifolds, air pump, etc. Might have value to somebody restoring an early 240Z. Also, on the 4 speed, whether or not it's a "monkey-motion" transmission or the later style. If it has the clutch parts too, that might help you sell it. Good luck.

Selling Datsun 240z rear taillight trim for $220 USD or $300CAD on ebay.ca. Listing: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/376366931004

I typed some of this into AI to see what it said, and it came back with a lot of stuff, but the main thing was: However, you can search for a compatible replacement. Look for a 4.1945 MHz (or 4.194304 MHz, which is a common close frequency, as 222/106approx4.194304) crystal oscillator with similar package, voltage, and output characteristics. You'll need to know the pinout of your existing oscillator if you want a direct drop-in replacement. You could measure the voltage on a working one to get that, but the other specs would be hard to get without a datasheet.

IMO this is AI playing a game.

Do i still need to pull the water pump to inspect and flush the radiator to determine if its blocked somewhere? 20250625_170637.mp4

I have the paint code information and stuff. I didn't know if there was a report that showed all the stuff like the marti report out there or not. I have ran the vin on carfax and got all info that you are able to find out (maintenance, wrecks, title, inspection and stuff). It just doesn't show like this car is #1 of 1500 with this paint and trim.

Thanks for the responses. I think I might just go with Hastings rings just to be safe. Seems like its the most cost effective option with reported good reviews.

Case closed update: I had my seats re-foamed and the ride is great now. I was surprised how big a difference that made, but we're sitting pretty now. Thanks all!

Yeah, to me the biggie is the change of the body vents from the hatch to the pillars, that is probably the "hardest stake in the ground" item for SN 21001. Is SN 21001 also when the center console moved stuff like the ashtray/lighter, no throttle slot next to the choke lever? I know how the cabin was is my '73 and it had the console I just described with the lighter in the dash.

Quite right. I was looking at the wrong column.

Quick one today. After working out some kinks in the wiring (thanks @SteveJ) I’m nearly done with it. I refurbished the wiring for the tail lights this week. I’ve always planned to rework the arrangement to be more like (but not exactly like) the euro tail lights. I’ve read a ton of stuff about these cars getting rear ended, so I wanted to make it as clear as possible that I’m braking. I still plan to add a third brake light, but I think this is substantially better than the original US tail light configuration. Driving lights are the outside top lights only. IMG_4744.mov IMG_4745.movTurn signals are the outside bottom lights only (thanks to @w3wilkes for the flasher recommendation). Brakes all of the top lights. Now I have to figure out what I’m going to do with the front turn signals. These LEDs are so bright that when the driving lights are on you can’t tell they flashing from more than a couple feet away. I’m wondering if there’s a way to make it cut power to the driving light wire only when the turn signal is working.

Thanks everyone that contributed to this thread. I was repowering my 65 520 pickup upgrading from the J13 to the L18 and had this same issue with my clutch. Read the thread a couple of times, took some measurements and figured it out. The clutch package I used had an integrated throw-out bearing/sleeve so changing sleeves was not an option. I welded a 1/4" spacer onto the ears and now it's 92mm exactly from the flywheel!

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