Topics Last Week

Nonsense! When people talk about 'Cad plating' on Z cars they did not form that habit through experience based on 1964 Nissan Cedric sedans. It's simply a habit they picked up from a vernacular formed in the American car scene. Show me ONE, just ONE period official document from Nissan Japan that proves Cadmium electroplating was used on the S30-series Z. Pretty please. Pretty please with bells and bows on. I'm all eyes and ears. No AI-generated garbage, just primary source, simple proof. Preferably in the manufacturer's native language. I'll buy you an AI-generated virtual double whisky to drink while you watch me eat my hat. At some point I'm hopeful that the penny will actually drop and you'll understand that we are discussing TWO different scenarios here. Yes, the title of the thread is the VZ Restoration Program cars and the digression onto 'Cad' plating came about because 'Cad' plating was mentioned on the work lists - and in press reports - of the VZ Program cars, despite - I contend - not being used on the cars when they were originally built in the 1969 thru 1973 period. Some insist 'Cad' was used originally, I say not. Nissan Japan says not too. That's it. Original manufacturing vs VZ Program re-manufacturing. I'm not disputing what was actually used on the VZ cars because I understand that they were a different situation altogether to their original manufacture. See? Which particular "possible reality" of yours is it this time? I had beef as the main dish in my evening meal earlier. I guess I ought to face up to the "possible reality" that it might in fact have been cardboard, cleverly disguised as beef. If so, whoever responsible did a pretty good job I can tell you. The labelling was very convincing too. Every time you repeat your "piece of paper" dissing of official, period, Nissan Japan-sourced data sheets - published for many models and variants over the period discussed (I've quoted no less than 14 different models covering 1966 thru 1972, but could easily quote more) - you lose more credibility. If anyone actually agrees with your outright dismissal of the Nissan Engineering Standard system and Nissan's own publications then I invite them to show their hands here. YES! Have you just noticed...!? It's what really happened in the early Seventies - not the mid Nineties - that is the bone of contention. NO! (Argh!). I have no idea what the VZ Program professionals knew or understood about the plating on the cars.

Ah yes Jim, that one is a bit more tricky. One of the short wire switches I have is already broken.

Took the Z to a show at a local Chevy dealer. When I pulled in the dealership owner said "We never see these cars, I want you parked at the entrance".

A very early AI movie (and there's a trilogy of 3 books) is "Colossus: The Forbin Project" released in 1970. And yes, we lose control of it.

I never lock my 12/70 240Z. It's garaged almost 100% of the time. When out it's for a show or cruise night or visiting friends. There's nothing in the car that really worries me and I'd rather have it just stolen than having someone break a window to get what they're after!

Time for another update: I spent the last couple of days in the Workshop and installed all the hood alignment parts, so the body shop can properly align the hood. I also put back all bolts to the body panels, since they were missing after I had to remove a lot of things for alignment and rework. Not much to see, but all panels are now secured for transport. Slowly, but steady, t starts to look like a complete car again. Well - there is still a lot of work. Next, i decided to test fit the side markers, just to be sure the holes are still correct. I assembled to mock-ups from various used and NOS parts which I had. And installed: (Note plastic wrap on the NOS lens, to protect it) Now the big project. The rear spoiler. As you can see, the inner bolts are missing (compare holes with the missing bolt, left): I thought it had probably rotted away in the past, so they just removed it. That made me want to drill back a hole to install a new one, but it seems the previous owner just cut off the previous bolts and the metal part was still inside the spoiler mounting position. Luckily, I was able to drill out the remains of the old studs by starting with a very thin drill and then working the size up until the original 4mm: I made myself some new bolts from some M4 screws: While sanding off the area to glue back in the new bolts, I found a crack underneath the various layers of bondo, primer and paint, which the spoiler has collected over the years: Now also that glue-remains on the inside made sense:, which chipped off like nothing, once hammered: I was able to clean the whole area And then glue both the crack and the bolts back in with some two-component epoxy glue: The result is not bad, if you ask me. It appears to be quite strong, too: Next, I wanted to get back the holes for the original emblems. After sanding the areas, I finally found some black dots, which is probably black filler, which they used to fill the original holes: While trying to tap-mark the holes for drilling, the black filler bits just popped out. So I only used the drill to clean the holes to correct size. Lucky me :-) And the Emblems can go back again, as intended from the factory: Last but not least, I spent quite some hours today to sand off those dozens (!!) of layers of filler, primer and paint from all the years. You might wonder why? Because in some areas the paint and filler is so thick, that the spoiler almost has a different shape. I'm almost done, but still need to spend a few hours. But it appears I was able to save another Original part for the car, and I hope I can install it back soon...

Thanks for information!

Bring a Trailer1972 Datsun 240ZBid for the chance to own a 1972 Datsun 240Z at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #208,164.

Yes crazy circuit, the JDM and euro are totally different.. much easyer.

Every single one...

Could well be -> intercooler, -> condenser, -> Koyo radiator (stacked up before the) -> fan. (unfortunately don't have a shroud - wish I did) Plus Phoenix softens up a lot of plastic at times (then dries it out, bakes, and cracks it). And I believe the blade length played a part in my particular case. Oh, and engine tilt vs. radiator non-tilt...

The car was so powerful because it didn’t have just normal horsepower…

240Z E31 Cylinder Head Complete. $400.00 Also available late N47 from 280zx Complete.

Rust free doors and hatch. Coupe. Black panels. All complete. No keys. $1200.00 Local pickup. These pieces are heavy.

Thanks for the tip. That's the one I'll go with. Richard McDonel

So just a little progress of working on my 1972 240Z that I’ve resurrected twice now since I’ve owned it from 2005 or so ..it’s been a long project and not perfect but it was my daily driver . This is where it sat for 8 years untouched next to my 1988 Toyota pickup in December 2024 All loaded up for the 1500 mile return trip in my 1986 f350 diesel I pulled from a field for 500 bucks a year earlier Once I got it home I got it running pretty easy but noticed an immediate problem in the form a rattling noise from the timing cover to discover a broken tensioner and missing bolts . After that issue was fixed I decided it was time to install my big brake kit I got from a junk yard 260z about 15 years ago .. don’t know who made the brackets but the calipers and rotors are from a 90’s corvette .. 12 inch rotors too ..don’t worry about the wheel studs they have been replaced since It also needed the carbs tuned As you can see they were way off plus I discoved the carbs were loose too ..explained why the erratic idle lol I just had to get a star road shift knob Radio was full or rodent crap and figured why not add a wide band afr gauge from auto meter in its place along with my driving light switch ..I still haven’t cleaned the marker off Also had to make my own headlight relay upgrade to run flosser h4 90/100watt ralley lights It’s an L28 with N47 head from a 1979 280ZX upgrades include 45dcoe triple Webbers . Msa 3 into 2 headers msa stage 3 schneider cam along with schneider valve springs Holley blue fuel pump . Kameari Racing distributor and fidanza light flywheel with centerforce clutch . Also running a single grove dampener . I will get the engine rebuilt in the future and get it up to 10.1 cr so maybe I’d get more out of the mods I have ..but still runs great and sounds amazing .

The writer's version. People have their unique talents. Three Dog Night made it work.

As of this date it is NLA from Nissan !

Facebook marketplace $100. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1265446158557795/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking=%7B%22qid%22%3A%22-8463486491996509719%22%2C%22mf_story_key%22%3A%224732611337300919667%22%2C%22top_level_post_id%22%3A%224732611337300919667%22%2C%22commerce_rank_obj%22%3A%22%7B%5C%22target_id%5C%22%3A4732611337300919667%2C%5C%22target_type%5C%22%3A6%2C%5C%22primary_position%5C%22%3A78%2C%5C%22ranking_signature%5C%22%3A8680157257122688039%2C%5C%22commerce_channel%5C%22%3A501%2C%5C%22value%5C%22%3A0.00097449886189893%2C%5C%22upsell_type%5C%22%3A3523%2C%5C%22candidate_retrieval_source_map%5C%22%3A%7B%5C%2225209201332002879%5C%22%3A626%2C%5C%2225037753125825021%5C%22%3A626%7D%2C%5C%22grouping_info%5C%22%3Anull%7D%22%2C%22lightning_feed_qid%22%3A%22-8463536038638864453%22%2C%22lightning_feed_ranking_signature%22%3A%228680157257122688039%22%7D

Does it not catch onto the threads, one side of the notch isn't turned up a little? I don't understand any other reason for it.