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Showing results for 'u-joints'.
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Ok thanks everyone for the help I think i will just try my luck again tommorow or next weekend by rotating the driveshaft (might just slide it out like Zkars said). Im going to document my 'restoration' (half restoration) and ill let everyone know how it goes. Dont have much time right now with school and all. thanks for all the help!
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If you are not sure if they have been replaced recently, then I would just replace them while you have them out of the car. That's what I did when I refinished my rear end suspension. Everything got replaced, regardless. You know how it goes............. while I'm at it....... Admittedly the half shafts are not that difficult to remove from the car, but it is still work and they are accessible right now. In any case, dealing with the boot replacement is much more of a PITA than replacing the u Joints in my opinion. I completely disassembled the half shaft sections so I could slip the new boot on. My old ones were in bad shape and so needed to be replaced but I could not find a way of getting the new one on the shaft without disassembling them. If you decide to do this be very careful as there are both roller and ball bearings that will easily fall out as you remove one part of the shaft from the other. There is also a C clip you will need to remove from one end in order for the inner shaft to be removed from the outer. Finally getting all of the balls and rollers back in was tedious and time consuming. I used lots of grease to help hold the bearings in place as I re-assembled and this did help but it was still a lot of work. I have pictures of this operation if they would help you out. Just let me know and I will send them to you or perhaps this is the reason we have been looking for in terms of trying to get together one of these days. Let me know if I can be of some assistance. Mike.
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It sounds to be some sort of broken mount, probably the tranny mount. If one part is broken and is shaking alot it will cause a lot more stress on other parts, like u-joints. I would get it fixed right away if you want to drive your car with any enjoyment and not cause any premature wear on other parts. I have a question about the motor in your picture gallery Image "240ZG3". What kind of fuel injection is that? TWM? How much does that set up cost? Can this set up take a pressurized airbox and centrifigle supercharger? It's in the White ZG.
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I recently replaced all 6 u-joints on my car as part of the `if its not broke, i should break it` phase of finding and fixing stuff on my car. To make matters worse I'm beginning to suspect that the driveshaft / half shafts are "out of phase" because I did not make any markings or keep track of the yoke orientation on any of the shafts when I assembled them. Is my only real option to get everything balanced? I feel and hear vibrations when at highway speeds.. I dont think figuring out the phase is something that I can do in the garage is it?
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non-replacable u-joints. What kind of z do you have?
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Aftermarket u-joints sometimes do, but not always. Factory u-joints do not. A squeak like that often warns of impending failure. If so you've got some time probably, but something to think about. If there's no grease fittings and they're squeaking, they're definitely toast.
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My R180 has 180K miles on it and has the developed the usual whine between 45-55 mph that changes pitch between driving and coasting. The manual says this is an indication of excessive runout between the pinion gear and drive gear. I have previously replaced the wheel bearings all round and have been impressed with the change in ride. When I first got the vehicle 18 months ago, the side seals showed evidence of leakage and one half shaft was installed backwards. After the mechanics replaced the forward differential mount, side seals and re-installed the half shafts, I noticed a clunk when shifting from driving to coasting and vice versa. The u-joints were okay but there was a noticeable amount of free play (read runout) in the differential. After my success with the wheel bearings and I have read through the FSM several times in anticipation of replacing the bearing in the differential. I have learned several things: A. It appears that the shims on the pinion shaft serve to establish preload on the pinion bearings and to establish the correct height of the pinion gear to the side shafts. The preload is required to minimize the axial movement of the pinion shaft. The correction to the height is needed due to variation in the various machined dimensions of both the pinion shaft and housing. B. The left/right position of the differential case assembly is established by shims installed under the side bearing retainers. These shims establish the preload of the side bearings and the clearance between the drive gear and pinion gear. The variation in clearance of the drive gear and pinion gear determines its runout. These shims come in various thicknesses from 0.2mm to 0.5mm. Again these shims account for variations in machined dimensions including bearing heights. The various machine dimensions are stamped on the parts to determined which shims are to be used. C. The shims in A. correct heel or toe contact errors in between the pinion gear and drive gear. D. The shims in B. establish the clearance between the pinion gear and drive gear. This is a major contributor to runout. E. Page PD-8 of the FSM manual says to inspect the pinion and drive gears for surface defects and runout in excess of 0.08mm and to replace the pinion and drive gears as a set if needed. F. Pages PD-12-13 describe checkout after re-assembly and specify drive gear/ pinion gear runout of 0.1mm to 0.2mm - This is greater than the allowed runout in E. ?!? G. Correction for excessive runout or improper preload under F. is to adjust the shim thicknesses under B. by trial and error. The side bearing preload value is less on re-used bearings to account for wear and may require adjusting shim thickenesses. The various shims are sold in sets of 10 - if you can find them. The pinion/drive gear matched sets are rare and can cost more the a used differential. The side bearings are relatively cheap. Pinion bearings are expensive. Considering the above, I have the following questions: 1. If the pinion gear preload is acceptable and no axial runout found, would you consider changing the side bearings only? 2. Since one half shaft was installed backwards, what are the odds that the left and right side bearing retainers and or shims were inadvertently swapped resulting in a shift in the differential carrier assembly and an excessive runout? 3. Assuming bearing heights should be pretty consistent, would you consider changing bearings and re-using the same shims? 4. Has anyone replaced bearings without swapping the pinion/drive gear set and what was the result? I am also open to the opinions of our more experienced members.
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Haven’t done this for a while (done 10+ before hand), but sourcing ATV700 part number u-joints never resulted in any issues during reassembly. If you have to do a little “clearancing” with whatever parts are now available, well it never hurts. Sounds like what I always have to do with GM alternator replacements. Some part of the case or mounting bracket has to be “relieved” to make it swing in close enough to get the belt on. Just what you have to do. What I do remember is the last time I ordered more from the u-joint store I think, they were having supply chain issues and couldn’t supply any. Will have to check again.
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So a 72-74 would bolt right up with new u-joints? Does that seem like a better idea than dealing with the non servicable u joints? Zbarn lists 3 sets of DS; 70-71; 72-74; and 75-78 so I think the 70-71 had the diff mounting location, i think; BTW I wont be driving this car is the winter anymore... I know i bought it to drive but i need to fix some things on it and get her ready to drive daily in spring/summer; I just can't bear to ruin it yet if i can help it... hopefully ill have a storage garage if money allows otherwise itll be outside w/tarp under and cover over;
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All 280Zs came stock with non-replacable u joints on the driveshaft. You'll have to replace the whole thing. You can use a 240-260 driveshaft so that, in the future, you would be able to just replace the u joints if need be.
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Here's been my schedule. I have now owned the car for 4 years and have put ~5500miles on it. I do not use synthetic oils. For motor oil I use Valvoline VR1 racing (with higher zinc) and add ZDDP (4oz) with every change. My approach has been to use a lot of guidance from this forum in establishing the schedules below. Plugs - 1 year (In Spring when put on the road) - I use NGK's and have 2 sets so I clean, re-gap and re-use a set for following year. Just started 2nd cycle - will replace both sets in 2years depending on how they look. I have a MSD 6A and Mallory Promaster Coil so I have to watch for Tip break-down. I Gap to .060" due to such large spark. Oil & Filter - 1 year (I change the oil annually in Fall before storage, 20W50 Valvoline add 4oz ZDDP). Coolant - 3-4 years (Prestone 50/50 mix), check for leaks monthly. Changed it 2 years ago. Air & Fuel Filters - Annually. K&N Air Filter, clean it in Spring. Fuel Filter replace with new after burning up old Gas and when installing Cleaned/New plugs. Brake Fluid - 7-10 years (drained & cleaned 4years ago - 5years more to go or sooner if a leak occurs. Check it monthly for leaks, topped it up last year. I do have 4w discs: Toyota 4X4 fronts and Maxima Rears - 1982/83 vintage) Can't remember if I use DOT4 or DOT5 as I'm traveling in Asia on business this week. 5spd Manual Trans/R200 Differential Gear oil - 10 years (used 75W90 Valvoline, just changed tranny when I replaced the Speedo O-rings this year, had a small leak to correct. Differential changed last year) Inspect Hoses - Monthly check. Lube Jobs: Steering, U-Joints, Suspension Grease fittings - Annually. When I have the car NYS Inspected on the lift. (in Spring when put on the road). Tire Rotation - 5000 miles. I have Bridgestone Potenza Pole Positions A/S directionals; so Front -to- Back only rotation. Just bought new ones and upgraded my suspension with Urethanes (and greased them) to resolve Rear End alignment issues. Had car re-aligned with new tires. Urethane Bushings - Just upgraded this past year so will Grease Annually in Spring Time ( or if a sqeak if any occurs). Good luck .. and publish this information when you summarize it for us. It will be useful. Many thanks for starting this thread...
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I had the same issue, lots of slop on one side. Removing the half shafts is not hard it just takes a bit of patients and maybe time. I had to hit mine with some PB Blaster before the nuts would come off, spray it and leave it sit over night then the next day they will come off easier and without stripping or braking anything. Brand...you are on the right track, get good quality ones. I went with Spicers from MSA. Pay attention to what you are buying from them since they sell a lesser brand and the Spicers. I took my half shaft to The Z Clinic and had them put in for something like $50 about 4 years ago. After watching him I think I could probably do it myself next time. While you are at it you should do both half shafts and the drive shaft couldn't hurt either.
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I inherited new axle boots and u-joints with my parts 240Z. In the course of pulling the u-joints, I caused or discovered some damage on the inside mating surface of one yoke. I had an extra set of axles and decided to go ahead with those, but found that the end nearest the diff is permanently sealed - not held with a spring clip etc. Of the various manuals, the factory shows the whole thing as being a simple project (remove with a soft-faced mallet, etc.), while Humble glosses right over it. Clymer is confusing in that in one paragraph it says you can't do it because there are no replacement parts available, then in the next goes on to describe how to do it. A peek in the Black Dragon catalogue shows they have remanufacatured replacement axles, but only for 260 - 280 automatics (at $900 a pop! I'm building a Datsun guys, not a Lambo ). What I'm guessing is that the sealed-end axles I have are really for a later model automatic. Sound right? Now, with respect to the damaged yoke -- and here I'm talking about the small piece, not the end that is part of the axle -- does anyone think I will have any balance problems using one from the A.T. axle? Thanks, as always
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I'll second that motion cheap Uni joints break under higher power applications.
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Looks like the rubber insulator at the top of the strut broke, letting the wheel drop. You can probably see the remains above the tire with a light. There's room to get your head in there now. The dropped wheel is causing the u-joints in the halfshaft to bind, that's where the bumpy rotation comes from.
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I attempted to change my u-joints out and messed up the balance so bad on a set of half-shafts that they are pretty much trash.... Its uneconomical to replace the ujoints i used with OEM ones, and get them balanced. To get them balanced in the Bay Area I was quoted at $100 per shaft. I was able to find someone selling a complete suspension setup for $100, included the rear end, and used the shafts from there... Maybe just clean them and paint?
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Yep, the infamous clunk can only be cured by replacing all of the rear-end bushings. U-joints, diff mount, etc.... I finally got rid of mine by replacing the two bushings that hold the diff in place (cross member).
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I'm about ready to give up! I have owned this '73 240 for 22 years, and it has always had a small vibration at speed, usually 70 mph....and in right hand corners at speed it really shakes. I just got it back from what is supposed to be the best suspension shop in town, and they can't figure it out. Everything has been checked out, bushings, u-joints, etc. Anybody got any bright ideas? Thanks.
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Whoever put the R200 in probably installed the R200 half-shafts also since the R180 had bolt on half-shafts, the R200 half-shafts bolt up to a clip-in flange. I think that the R200 shafts came with threaded holes for Zerk fittings, so that wouldn't be an indicator of stock. Look for Japanese writing on the u-joint caps instead to see if they're stock. Also, examine the dust seals on the u-joint caps for red dust (rust) or dryness or just cracking and falling apart. I've found the stock u-joints are very durable and of high-quality. If they're still lubricated, I would just refill them through the Zerks and run them. I did have one half-shaft that wore out on the telescoping body of the shaft. I don't know if it got shocked or dried out but it wouldn't telescope freely any more. So they do wear out sometimes. There's a procedure in the 280Z FSMs for testing play on the R100 half shaft. Download 75, 76 or 78 (77 is too bulky) and look at the Rear Axle chapter.
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Hi, I want to replace the half shaft U-joints on my 240Z. The parts are available from MSA and black Dragon - but not the needle bearings and c-clips. Does anyone of you have an idea where to get them? My old ones are very rusty and I think they will be damaged when pressed out. Next thing: do the driveshaft u-joints also request needle bearings? Thanks for your help. Juergen
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Most likely the driveshaft u-joints are bad. Pull the driveshaft and have them replaced. While you are under the car, replace the transmission and the front diff mounts.
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I have a 12/70 car that is having a serious rear brake issue. Here is the background. I have an early 2/71 parts car (still lots of Series 1 pieces) that I removed the suspension from, had sandblasted and then powder coated. As I removed suspension pieces from the12/70, I replaced with the refreshed pieces and torques to spec. At the same time, I rebuilt the halfshafts, replaced and greased the u-joints, replaced and greased all bushings, replaced shocks and springs (Koni yellows and Eibach springs), replaced all bearings, and packed the hubs with fresh grease. The last piece of the puzzle are the rear brakes. I replaced the pads, added rubber new brake lines, bled the system. and put the original aluminum drums back on. I did not replace the cylinders as the old ones looks OK and are prohibitive to replace unless I swap lines and go over to the 73 ones. I also did not replace either the master cylinder or rebuild the booster. I ran the car for a block and heard the most god-awful grinding noise. I bought it back home and parked it. The drums had a hard time coming off (each time actually). The E-brake also will not hold. Today I replaced the drums with new steel ones, and worked the e-brake to self adjust, I seemed to work for a bit (always more than 4 clicks) but then did not. I ran the car and the noise was just as awful. Even the neighbors noticed it! I ran it less than a block and brought it home. It sounded like metal on metal grinding. I only get the noise the when the wheel has weight on it and is going forward. In reverse, or when the wheel is spun while jacked up, there are no issues. Any advice for what to do next?
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I ordered the aftermarkets from VB as well but was not impressed with the quality at all. I sent them back for a refund. I ended up using the original ones that were in the car. They may have been replaced at some point but they looked a lot better and there was noting wrong with them. Man there are a lot of little needle bearings in these things. I tore them down to nothing and rebuilt them, placing each of the 496 needle bearings back in by hand and packing them with heavy duty moly-graphite bearing grease.
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Do these U-Joints have Zerk fittings?
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Just had the same freaking problem. I had to grind the retaining clips.
