SteveJ

If the jar is above the bleed screw, the thought is that the hose between the bleed screw and jar is also above the bleed screw. If that hose is filled with fluid, you are less likely to pull air back in through the bleed screw.

As mentioned, press the Add Files button. You should see something like this: Press Files if it's a photo in your gallery. Select the right photo.

I just make sure the bleed bottle is higher than the bleed screw. I haven't had any issues with bleeding the rear brakes.

Let's take this apart. All three systems are on different circuits. As long as you have a good battery, and your alternator is putting out over 13VDC, voltage would not be an issue. The current for the headlights passes through the combo switch. The current for the parking lights also passes through the combo switch but through a different set of contacts. Years ago @Zs-ondabrain developed nice relay kits for the headlights and parking lights (The dash lights are on the same circuit as the parking lights.). These relay kits are sold through Motorsport Auto. Here are the links: Headlights: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4651 Parking Lights: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4652 These relay kits take the load out of the switch. Also, swapping the bulbs in the dash lights for LEDs can make them much brighter. The downside for some people (not me) is that you probably can't dim the lights unless you change the rheostat for a PWM. I am good with the gauges being bright. Now for the horns...When I was waking up my 240Z after it's 9 year slumber, I was going through the different systems and found the horns weren't working well. I ordered some new horns and a horn relay, but I figured that I would also inspect the old horns. When I removed them, I found corrosion on the positive terminal and where they bolted to the car. The latter is the grounding point. I used a narrow wire brush on a Dremel to clean the grounding points, and I wire-wheeled the positive contacts, too. I reinstalled and found I had strong horns again. If cleaning the contacts does not improve things, it could be the horn relay. Apparently, horn relays for 240Zs are becoming scarce. ZCarDepot still has OEM relays. You can get the part number from CarPartsManual.com and try a Nissan dealer up in Canada, but the US dealers show these as NLA.

Here are the ones I bought from Amazon. They fit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPCOB6 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPCOAM

@madkaw is less than 3 hours from you.

You may want to start a new thread. It's hard to tell what diagnostics you have done with all of the non-helpful complaints from another person mixed in.

In my opinion, you're being a little too defensive. Also, in my opinion this thread probably needs to be locked down before it gets any more heated. @Mike @bpilati Do either of you agree?

He didn't say it was his switch. He pulled the photo from the site of someone who documented a restoration of a Z. He used that photo because the site creator documented what wire goes where.

Two off the bat: High fuel pressure Cold start injector always firing Better answer: You can find the factory service manual at http://xenonzcar.com/s130/FSM/1980fsm.php. In the EF section there is a troubleshooting section. Unfortunately it is a little vague. The sensors are definitely good things to test, though.

It passed the smoke test. Well, there was smoke coming out around the gasket because the exhaust manifold wasn't bolted down where it shares studs with the intake. Anyway, I buttoned it back up, and I'll be testing soon to see if I hear anything that I shouldn't with regards to an exhaust leak.

That's "Resurrected Classics". I've helped them out a couple of times with electrical issues on cars. https://resurrectedclassics.com/ Max is a member here, but I don't recall his username.

The point of making the measurements was to learn how to use a multimeter to discern between the L (lamp or the switched source) & S (sense or battery voltage) terminals on an internally regulated alternator. With the positive probe on the meter on the S terminal and common on the B terminal, you will see resistance. In this case I'm using a ZX alternator for the demonstration. However, if you swap the probes, the diodes in voltage regulator will block the resistance reading between the S terminal and B terminal. This meter reads "OL" or open line when the circuit is open. There are no diodes between the B terminal and the L terminal. So the reading get with the positive probe on the L terminal will be about the same as when the common probe is on the L terminal. In your second photo, the common (black) probe is on the S terminal. Frankly, I would connect the wire from the S terminal to the cross of the T terminal on the stock wiring. Connect the vertical on the T connector to the L terminal. Again, you can get the connector from Vintage Connections. Get the jumper plug from Motorsport Auto. Hook them up. You are done.

Have you thought that maybe our cars have NOT been stolen because we took the steps we suggested to you? 🙄

Today I pulled off the intake to address the exhaust leak. I cut off the air injectors and proceeded to tap the fittings with an M7x1 tap. One bolt broke as I tightened it, but I think it's sealed. I'll find out with another smoke test in a little while.

In addition to what @grannyknotsaid, you are in an area renown for rusted cars, and you don't have any photos of underneath the car or of other rust-prone areas. Grannyknot hits on the biggest issue. The 2+2 just isn't that popular. You have to be lucky enough to post an ad when one of the few people who wants a 2+2 is looking.

Just touch one pin at the connector at a time. If the test does not work, then it means you need to test the switch more thoroughly.

If you want to test the turn signal switch with the test light, unplug the 6 pin (5 wire) connector at the turn signal switch. Leave the wire from the flasher plugged in. With the key in the ON position, use your test light to touch the pins for the white/black and green/black wires when the turn signal is in the right turn position and the white/red and green/red wires when the turn signal is in the left turn position. With the current for the test light flowing through the flasher, you should be able to see the test light blink. (This is of course with the other end of the test light grounded.)

I would agree with that assessment. The test light is a high resistance, so you won't get much current flowing through the circuit. You don't say what points you are measuring at, so it's difficult to say. Here's a description of the circuit for a 240Z. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ You didn't say what year car you have. If you have corrosion at the switch or connectors, that could cause a voltage drop due to increased resistance. After the flasher, the switch is the last common point on the circuit.

Steelies are too narrow. ZX wheels 6 inches wide, though. If you're going to get new wheels, consider 16x7s.

How about the links from Falken? https://www.falkentire.com/tires/passenger-car-tires/azenis-rt615k-tire https://www.falkentire.com/tires/passenger-car-tires/azenis-rt660-tire

These are the tires I put on the 240Z: https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/falken-azenis-rt615k%2b/p/34264 A friend got these for his track-day Miata: https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/falken-azenis-rt660/p/88519

What wheels are on the car now? Falken makes 14 inch tires that have good grip, but they require at least 6 inch wide wheels. I bought a set recently to go on the Iron Cross ZX wheels on my 240Z. If you're not sure about the wheels, post photos.

Probably this: https://www.amazon.com/ARONOVA-Battery-Aluminum-Bracket-Stainless/dp/B09CJX5KRP

Yes, you are bypassing the voltage regulator. This could cause you other voltage/current problems. Replace the voltage regulator. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10b03/12-4082