SteveJ

Have you thought that maybe our cars have NOT been stolen because we took the steps we suggested to you? 🙄

Today I pulled off the intake to address the exhaust leak. I cut off the air injectors and proceeded to tap the fittings with an M7x1 tap. One bolt broke as I tightened it, but I think it's sealed. I'll find out with another smoke test in a little while.

In addition to what @grannyknotsaid, you are in an area renown for rusted cars, and you don't have any photos of underneath the car or of other rust-prone areas. Grannyknot hits on the biggest issue. The 2+2 just isn't that popular. You have to be lucky enough to post an ad when one of the few people who wants a 2+2 is looking.

Just touch one pin at the connector at a time. If the test does not work, then it means you need to test the switch more thoroughly.

If you want to test the turn signal switch with the test light, unplug the 6 pin (5 wire) connector at the turn signal switch. Leave the wire from the flasher plugged in. With the key in the ON position, use your test light to touch the pins for the white/black and green/black wires when the turn signal is in the right turn position and the white/red and green/red wires when the turn signal is in the left turn position. With the current for the test light flowing through the flasher, you should be able to see the test light blink. (This is of course with the other end of the test light grounded.)

I would agree with that assessment. The test light is a high resistance, so you won't get much current flowing through the circuit. You don't say what points you are measuring at, so it's difficult to say. Here's a description of the circuit for a 240Z. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ You didn't say what year car you have. If you have corrosion at the switch or connectors, that could cause a voltage drop due to increased resistance. After the flasher, the switch is the last common point on the circuit.

Steelies are too narrow. ZX wheels 6 inches wide, though. If you're going to get new wheels, consider 16x7s.

How about the links from Falken? https://www.falkentire.com/tires/passenger-car-tires/azenis-rt615k-tire https://www.falkentire.com/tires/passenger-car-tires/azenis-rt660-tire

These are the tires I put on the 240Z: https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/falken-azenis-rt615k%2b/p/34264 A friend got these for his track-day Miata: https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/falken-azenis-rt660/p/88519

What wheels are on the car now? Falken makes 14 inch tires that have good grip, but they require at least 6 inch wide wheels. I bought a set recently to go on the Iron Cross ZX wheels on my 240Z. If you're not sure about the wheels, post photos.

Probably this: https://www.amazon.com/ARONOVA-Battery-Aluminum-Bracket-Stainless/dp/B09CJX5KRP

Yes, you are bypassing the voltage regulator. This could cause you other voltage/current problems. Replace the voltage regulator. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10b03/12-4082

If the spark plugs were not torqued to spec, that could give you that result. If the same plugs have been taken out and put back many times, the sealing washers could be compromised. However, there could be some contributing factors, like failing oil rings. In addition to what @jonbillsuggested, do a compression test per the directions in the factory service manual.

Should we trust ZCD? There are a lot of variables we don't know about that could have contributed to the failure the insulation of the fusible link. For instance, I believe I saw paint around the connector. Paint, corrosion, etc, would adversely affect current flow, building heat. We don't know the condition of the battery. If it wasn't fully charged, the alternator would be pushing more current across the link.

I think this one was better...

That is NOT a starter wire. That is a fusible link. Don't know what a fusible link is? Click here: https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data Sheets/Littelfuse PDFs/Fusible_Link_FAQ.pdf Replace it. It is done. You can get a replacement from Banzai Motorworks (http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catWiring.php WH-03 @zspert) or Motorsport Auto (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4332). Ironically, the wire should have burned up leaving the insulation intact. In the meantime, disconnect the battery so you don't short out the link. As for the alternator, since it does not have any identifying marks for the L and S wires, I will expand upon my previous suggestions (You need to do at least one.): Buy the Haynes manual for the Frontier (98-04). The electrical section may have the information on what you need. You can get a used copy off Amazon for about $14. How much is your car worth to you? Go to forums on the Nissan Frontier and see if someone with electrical knowledge can answer your question about which is L and which is S. Use a multimeter on the resistance setting. If it has multiple resistance settings, you may have to repeat the steps below on 1M ohm and 1K ohm settings. Touch the common probe to the red wire. Touch the other probe to the B terminal. Record the reading. Touch the common probe to the B terminal. Touch the other probe to the red wire. Record the reading. Touch the common probe to the green wire. Touch the other probe to the B terminal. Record the reading. Touch the common probe to the B terminal. Touch the other probe to the green wire. Record the reading. Repeat steps 1-4 replacing the B terminal with the E terminal (grounding point). Report your readings from each step. If it's like the ZX alternator, I should be able to tell which is L and which is S. I'll explain what I'm looking for when I see the results.

Are you trying to figure out how to protect your Z? Locked garage Armed security Live in a gated community with security Always park so the drive wheels are inaccessible Pull the rotor out of the distributor cap and put it in your pocket

I can't take credit for the video, but I agree that it's great.

I used this video as the basis for my design. I modified the design to use valve stems for the air inlet and outlet. I removed the valve out of the outlet valve stem. I also used a towel as the wick and soaked the towel with baby oil. I used 1/4 ID vinyl tubing from the outlet stem to the engine with the plan being to use a compression tester hose in the spark plug hole. I forgot that the compression tester hose had a one-way valve pointing the wrong way, though. That meant I needed a small length of 1/2 OD tubing to go over the 1/4 ID tubing. That provided a seal around the spark plug hole that was adequate for the task. With the cam holding open the #2 exhaust valve, I used the soldering iron to heat up the towel. The wife was good enough to operate the tire inflator to supply the air to push the smoke into the cylinder. It didn't take long to see the smoke pouring out of the holes in the air injector.

Is there a different way of describing the use of a smoke machine to find exhaust leaks?

So, I thought I try some experimenting in the garage today. The wife agreed to join in, too. We generated some heat, and thanks to the baby oil, I found both holes. I felt very satisfied. Now I need to fill the holes. I'm man enough to do it. If I can't remove the old fittings, I'll probably use my cheap wire welder to fill in the air injector.

Correct. Color is relative. Position is everything. The picture I included does not show where the green and yellow wires land on the back of the connector. I was trying to show the origin of the description from ZCD. You need to verify which wire is which on the alternator you have. In your photos, it looks like the red wire is jumpered over to the B wire. I cannot tell you with any certainty that your wiring for that is correct as I have not physically examined the alternator, nor have I been able to track down a wiring diagram. Hence my suggestion for you to buy the Haynes manual to try to track it down. Are either pin marked with an L?

If I understand your question, I answered it in post #7. I did some digging. The alternator in your photos is probably this one: https://www.obbstartersandalternators.com/13778n-lr170-757b-lr170-757br-lr170-765-lr170-766-p-894.html. I saw the 13778N sticker in your photos. I looked up alternator wiring for the Frontier and found this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/302008182071. Picture below. That has the color wires described on the ZCarDepot site. From looking at some other images online, I would think that the Earth terminal is where I have the arrow drawn in the picture below. Can you post photos of the wire damage? Also before testing, verify which wire in the two wire connector goes where. If you can't see any markings on the alternator itself, you may have to resort to purchasing a Haynes manual for the Frontier to get the wiring info: https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Frontier-Pickup-Pathfinder-Manuals/dp/1563926105/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=nissan+frontier+haynes&qid=1632625664&sr=8-3

I took the 260Z to one of the regular car meets I frequent. A fellow GZC member was there, so we parked together.

For the diode, you can find a description here: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html For the jumpers at the VR connection, you can get the 6.3 mm 6-pin non-latching connector from Vintage Connections. You can use that connector for the diode. Unplug your VR. Set a multimeter on continuity. Look for the black/white wires from the engine bay harness going to the connector. Test each for continuity with the vertical pin on the T connector at the alternator. The diode would point to the T connector. You can also check with Motorsport Auto to see if they have this in stock: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12h04/12-4067 It already has the diode.