SteveJ

If Charlie retired, it was only in the last couple of days.

Good to know. That eliminates one of the extra variables. Don't forget to check the valve lash and timing, too. Those are important to have correct before futzing too much with the carburetors.

Actually, I had a 24F in my 240Z a long time ago and made the mistake of driving it without having the battery fully secured. When I made a right turn, the battery moved left, and the positive post contacted the engine. Fortunately, I put out the electrical fire before the car burned up. I am all for using the 24 instead of the 24F based upon my personal experience.

Welcome. This thread I started on getting my car back on the road after 11 years in the garage may be helpful to you.

You may be on to something. The oldest reference I can find about Zedd Findings is only 21 years old... https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?q="Zedd Findings"&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy

Then he would have to answer to General Observation.

That's how he earned his commission and rank.

I didn't even think to mention this earlier. Are you still using points in your distributor? If the gap and dwell aren't right, that could weaken the spark enough to make the car bog down going uphill. I was working on another guy's 240Z not that long ago. I got the carbs set up pretty good, put it bogged down going uphill. Another friend set the dwell, and it improved the car for a while. I finally convinced the owner to get a Pertronix. Once I installed that, the car would run uphill like a scalded dog.

Have you measures the current draw? Unplug the voltage regulator and see if you still have a current draw.

There is no Z35. The chassis designation is still Z34. The Nissan Z is slated to be a 2023 model, not 2022. The rules in the US allow Nissan to call it a 2023 model year car. As an example, I purchased a 2012 Ford Mustang in June 2011. I don't think there is any grist to mill here. Nissan has already announced that the base model will be the Sport, and the higher level trim is the Performance. And there will be 240 of the Proto Spec in yellow. If you want something to speculate about, I think we won't see much on any road tests of the new Z until it's close to the launch date, especially if they are making any late tweaks to compete with the Supra.

The adapter bypasses the stock external voltage REGULATOR as the "high output" alternators are internally regulated. If you have both an external and internal voltage regulator in the circuit, the internal VR won't see the battery voltage, so it jacks up the output voltage.

The Georgia Z Club did a swine & wine drive (BBQ for lunch followed by a winery trip). The wife and I went from the start to the BBQ portion. The club prezident always picks some great backroads for us to drive across North Georgia.

Did you jumper out the voltage regulator?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143414460942?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=143414460942&targetid=1262779892089&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9011007&poi=&campaignid=10455978148&mkgroupid=122766957832&rlsatarget=pla-1262779892089&abcId=2146002&merchantid=101701585&gclid=CjwKCAjwyvaJBhBpEiwA8d38vLI1o55TkIgk81m3k9-kRSYCXclOoIrQjpnqURN9L0NlctLpZ1FVshoCxOYQAvD_BwE https://www.amazon.com/Feet-Octane-Clear-Sight-Gauge/dp/B00IICV0P6 https://www.google.com/search?q=clear+fuel+line+1%2F4&sxsrf=AOaemvIfbH79kK00ip_HrjWtdrIf_OGHww%3A1631447695426&ei=j-o9YbvFGfCRwbkPpN214A4&oq=clear+fuel+line+1%2F4&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMyBQgAEIAEMgYIABAWEB4yBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeOgcIABBHELADOgcIABCwAxBDOhMILhDHARCjAhDIAxCwAxBDEJMCOhAILhDHARCjAhDIAxCwAxBDOggIABCABBDJA0oFCDgSATFKBAhBGABQ8zdYuUVgykZoAXACeACAAVuIAdcCkgEBNJgBAKABAcgBC8ABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwj7yOuisPnyAhXwSDABHaRuDewQ4dUDCA4&uact=5

No. https://www.datsunzparts.com/services/

I don't like doing tests with loose wires. It's too easy to short something out. I prefer taking measurements. For instance, with the 6 pin connector plugged in, you should have 12 VDC to ground at the green/blue wire.

There is supposed to be continuity between those wires when the parking light switch is in the ON position.

Yes, you can test. Remove the steering wheel cover. Unplug the 6 pin connector. Turn the switch from OFF to position 1 (no headlights). Check for continuity between the green/white and green/blue wires on the switch. (See photo.) Also, in the fuse box, measure voltage TO GROUND on either side of the 3rd fuse down on the right. Both sides of the fuse should have around 12VDC to ground. The 240Z fuse box is notorious for damage to this area of the fuse box. So, what can cause the parking lights not to come on? Here are some causes: The fuse is bad or improperly seated. The 6 pin connector on the switch was not plugged into the dash harness or was not plugged in correctly. One of the solder joints on the switch has gone bad. The mechanism in the switch is worn out so it is not pushing the rocker to make contact in the switch. If you cannot diagnose this yourself, you may need to send the switch to someone like myself who has the experience to diagnose and repair headlight switches.

With it snapped off, it is undriveable. You have gasoline vapors coming into the passenger compartment. You need to plug the hole in the vapor tank and plug the vapor line. This may mean a more difficult time in filling the tank. Ideally, you would remove the vapor tank and the broken fitting. Plug the vapor lines in the short term and find someone to weld the fitting back in place.

I know to add a fuel filter to the driving spares for the car.

Send me a PM if you want to bring your car to me to fix. I'm available tomorrow. I'm about half an hour away from you.

Get the to the connector for the high/low beam switch in the steering column. Unplug it. On the dash harness side of the connector, measure resistance from the red/black to the red/ white wires. Report the reading.

I forgot to ask. Does your car have old style sealed beam headlights, H4 bulbs headlights, or LED headlights?

Yesterday I tightened some loose bolts on the intake, so I decided to fill the tank and see if I got rid of the "tick". The tick was still there. When I parked the car in the garage after filling the tank, I thought I smelled fuel. I popped the hood to sniff and look. No leaks there. I walked around and found gas leaking from the left vent hose, and an pretty good stream, too. I pushed the car so the leak was hitting the driveway, and I started siphoning the gas out of the tank to drop it below the vent hose. After a while, I went to remove the bad end. The rubber had completely broken down, and turned gummy. Imagine that happening with only 11 years sitting soaking in gasoline turning into varnish. I capped the vent hose and ordered parts to run the replacement hose any way I need to get it to match up to the intact upper part of that vent hose. The other problem that is lurking is that there is loose rust in the tank. I pulled some out when I was siphoning the tank.

ZTherapy sells a video: https://ztherapy.com/products/videos/just_SU.htm Here is their main page: https://ztherapy.com/