SteveJ

I know to add a fuel filter to the driving spares for the car.

Send me a PM if you want to bring your car to me to fix. I'm available tomorrow. I'm about half an hour away from you.

Get the to the connector for the high/low beam switch in the steering column. Unplug it. On the dash harness side of the connector, measure resistance from the red/black to the red/ white wires. Report the reading.

I forgot to ask. Does your car have old style sealed beam headlights, H4 bulbs headlights, or LED headlights?

Yesterday I tightened some loose bolts on the intake, so I decided to fill the tank and see if I got rid of the "tick". The tick was still there. When I parked the car in the garage after filling the tank, I thought I smelled fuel. I popped the hood to sniff and look. No leaks there. I walked around and found gas leaking from the left vent hose, and an pretty good stream, too. I pushed the car so the leak was hitting the driveway, and I started siphoning the gas out of the tank to drop it below the vent hose. After a while, I went to remove the bad end. The rubber had completely broken down, and turned gummy. Imagine that happening with only 11 years sitting soaking in gasoline turning into varnish. I capped the vent hose and ordered parts to run the replacement hose any way I need to get it to match up to the intact upper part of that vent hose. The other problem that is lurking is that there is loose rust in the tank. I pulled some out when I was siphoning the tank.

ZTherapy sells a video: https://ztherapy.com/products/videos/just_SU.htm Here is their main page: https://ztherapy.com/

I didn't say it would be easy. 😉 The thing is that you don't want them to come loose easily. I had that problem when I bought my 260Z...and came back again after I got it fixed once. It's been over 5 years since I messed with those bolts. A stubby wrench may work in there better. Of course, you lose some leverage.

The first two links are just for 1 set of contacts each. It would probably be best if I shoot a video on what you would need to do. This may be a better place to shop if you need several. Here is a single contact: https://www.wiringdepot.com/store/p/449-JT-T-2557F-1-Wire-Universal-Single-Contact-Light-Socket-Pigtail-Base-w/-Fiber-Washers-Tension-Spring-2-Pcs.aspx Here is the two contact: https://www.wiringdepot.com/store/p/449-JT-T-2557F-1-Wire-Universal-Single-Contact-Light-Socket-Pigtail-Base-w/-Fiber-Washers-Tension-Spring-2-Pcs.aspx You will need to splice in the new contact. You may want to get a good crimping tool with a ratcheting action if you plan to use butt splices.

If you need just a couple, this may work out cheaper searching vendors here: https://www.google.com/search?q=pico+phenolic+contact&sxsrf=AOaemvIFZRsPlAWEcaxJyauvypZlYuMWXA:1630631418539&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwihitizz-HyAhVEhOAKHaHUDDMQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1920&bih=969

For the dual contact sockets, you can get these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RPV6GE Here's the single contact: https://www.amazon.com/Pico-Universal-Replacement-Phenolic-Weatherproof/dp/B001RPTMYC They also are available in bulk. I just added them to my Amazon wish list.

Thanks @Zed Head. I moved the switch to the port closest to the clutch fork. The switch makes contact in reverse. As I looked more carefully at the transmission, I realized I have the truck 5 speed.

Your suspicions are likely correct. It is probably the switch at the turn signal. It swaps which wire comes into contact with ground. In this case, the switch is not bringing the red/black wire into contact with the ground wire.

I forgot to mention that the transmission is an early 5 speed from a 280Z.

The reverse lights never came on when the car was in reverse in my 240Z. Twenty-four years ago, I replaced the switch, but the lights still didn't come on. I decided to try again. I installed a new OEM switch and checked the leads for continuity. No go. I moved the gear shift and found that the transmission pressed on the reverse switch in 4th gear. I assume there's no way to fix this without opening the transmission.

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx-s130-forums-77/79-83-280zx-distributor-repair-kit-43187/ @kickstand80It's okay to name other Z car sites here and post links to them.

Remove the bolts at the back of the driveshaft.

I found the kit here, too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/182616926711 It is listed for less, too, and the ebay link has photos. The compressor mount is actually goes where the smog pump would be. That is better as long as you don't have vehicle inspections in Switzerland. I'm still wondering about the evaporator integration.

It's an old style kit. The evaporator takes up a lot of the passenger footwear and isn't very efficient. The compressor mount blocks access to the mechanical fuel pump bolts and also limits access to the alternator. The upside is that it will take less time to install than a Vintage Air kit. Edit - I took another look. That kit wasn't the one I thought it was. It's a very generic kit. I suggest passing on it.

Switch panel? As for the solenoid wire, until the advent of the atrocious seatbelt interlock relay, the black/yellow wire went straight to the solenoid. The coil for relay in the wiring diagram is energized by a circuit going through the seatbelt interlock relay that I believe was deleted prior to the 75 coming to market. (https://www.thedetroitbureau.com/2009/11/the-great-safety-belt-interlock-fiasco/) As for the fuse box, pay attention to the source of power for the circuits. I have looked at the Eaton fuse boxes in the past. What I didn't like is that they didn't seem flexible for the different ways circuits are fused in the S30s. By the way, make sure you don't delete the shunt unless you are going to change out the ammeter gauge for a voltmeter.

Take the cover off of the steering column. It's right at the headlight switch. The 9 pin connector looks like this: The 6 pin connector is much flatter and wider.

Either way, it's just something that would have to be cut out of another car.

Didn't the OP say 280Z? http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-260z-280z/2-seater/cowl-top-grille

So it looks from your photo, that you need all of the sheet metal under the cowl.

I'm pretty sure it was a stock thing. It was in my 240Z from the time I purchased it.

I decided there was enough time in the day to do a few more little things to the Z. I changed the oil, inspected the reverse switch (no continuity in reverse), and changed out the sending unit at the gas tank. Since I knew I replaced the reverse light switch many years ago, I decided to figure out if it might be a part number issue. I searched CarPartsManual.com for the reverse switches for the 4 speed and the 5 speed. A previous owner swapped in an early 5 speed. It's the same part number. I ordered the switch from Courtesy Nissan. I'm hoping that the aftermarket part I tried 24 years ago was just not made correctly. I'll find out in about a week or so. Aside from trying the new switch when I get it and replacing the intake manifold gasket next Saturday, I'd say my odyssey of getting the 240Z back on the road is pretty much complete. I owe a lot to my local friend, Tim McGovern, and all of the people who have posted here over the years, especially Philip @240260280, for all that I have learned. It's simply amazing all of the knowledge I have accumulated over the last 10 years.