SteveJ

So the white wire has the battery sensing voltage. It should have 12VDC to ground full time, so that's good. The black/white wire in the engine harness should have 12VDC to ground when the key is ON. It branches off the wire that goes from connector C-7 under the dash all of the way to the ballast resistor. Corrosion could have built up where Nissan spliced it into the wiring harness, but that seems strange for an AZ car. Just for fun, unplug the black/white wire from the condenser under the voltage regulator and test again at the voltage regulator connector and the bullet connector that was connected to the condenser.

Sorry, all I can provide is more reading material. At least the second link has someone describing his experience. https://www.hagerty.com/assets/PDF/DomesticShipping.pdf https://www.hagerty.com/media/advice/shipping-a-car-heres-how-and-why-to-make-the-right-choice/

No! That is not the right solution. Run the tests I posted. Figure out what is wrong and fix it. You will get better results.

I think I know what inspired the scammers to use the phrase "Hello buddy".

At least some of the scammers/spammers are nice enough to self-identify with the "Hello Buddy" post.

Yes, you should see 12VDC to ground at the white black white with the ignition on. To check, unplug the voltage regulator from the engine harness. Put the key in ON. Measure voltage to ground at the black/white wire on the engine harness. You should see 12VDC. With the VR unplugged, you can also use the ohmmeter function to measure resistance at the two pins marked below. There should be about 0 ohms (continuity). If the car will start and run, test the voltage at the battery with the car running. It should be running around 14 VDC or a little more. That is a better test.

I was asked to keep it quiet, but it is a classic Z color.

So they had the red and the grey Zs at Caffeine and Octane this morning. It was great to see them in person and sit in them. The wife wasn't thrilled with the seats, but I thought they should be a great incentive to me to lose some more weight. I found the ergonomics of the driver's position to be excellent. If you have a 370Z, you won't be surprised by much of anything on the interior. That's not a bad thing to me. I think the cars look very nice in person. I don't have a problem with the large mouth on the car, but I wouldn't mind if they put a vestigial bumper on it to break it up. My thought is that we can expect to see that on a refresh in the future. The Nissan people there want feedback. I was telling one of the product planning guys the color I was hoping to see for a Z. He hinted that if I'm patient, I will be rewarded. That's perfect because I'm not in a rush to join the current new car buying frenzy. If you want a gasoline powered Z, this may be the last model you can buy.

Not surprised about tonyd4. I reported his first post as suspicious.

The red Z will be at Caffeine and Octane in Atlanta tomorrow. Even the wife is willing to get up early to see it.

I'm not sure about the screw size/type, but I do suggest getting some JIS screwdrivers to reduce the chances of messing up the heads in future.

I'm in the NO RTV club. I worked on a guy's 280ZX turbo about a year ago. I was setting the valve lash for him. After that I was removing bits of RTV from the camshaft. Heaven knows how much got down into oil passages. Before putting on a new valve cover gasket, I thoroughly cleaned the mating surface on the head and valve cover gasket and sprayed out the valve cover to get more little bits of RTV out. Get a Nissan valve cover gasket. Line it up carefully. Don't over-torque the bolts when you put it on. Done.

Yep, I was thinking about our conversation about that when I saw jackmau's comment.

As long as it isn't from a 2+2

I did not find corresponding holes on the E88 head or N47 (Maxima) head on my cars. Sorry, I can't help you.

What holes are you referring to? A photo or two would help.

Nope. Tried that many years ago. I actually opened it up a little wider to the point where the gland nut would fit, but the crow's foot is much more sturdy. I wasn't confident that I got the surfaces flat enough for the gland nut after working on the fork cap wrench.

Some time this year, I want to replace the struts and springs on the 240Z. I have the struts, but I need to decide whether to use the Chevette springs I have on hand or go with the ZCarSource springs. Anyway, I have used the tongue & groove pliers (aka Channel Locks) on the 260Z gland nuts in the past, and I noticed that ZCarDepot came out with a gland nut wrench. However, me being me, I wanted to see what else I could find. I tried to find an octagonal socket, but no one seems to have a 2 inch octagonal socket. They are either much too large or much too small. Then I was doing some other tool searching and came across a 2" crow's foot. It was only about $20, so I pulled the trigger. The crow's foot looks like it could work. It certainly goes around the gland nut.

Don't ignore Bel-Metric. They actually have JIS sized M8 nuts and bolts.

Here's one place to start searching: https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/nissan-infiniti-datsun-4/ You might reach out to ZCarSource, too. Holy crap, I think this may have what you need: https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71-fs5w71a-fs5w71c-fs5w71e-fs5w71g-fs5w71h/

For the internal shift forks, that's trickier.

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic22b01i

Even trickier. "I want to marry you, but she stays in my life, too."

To elaborate, the black/white wire should be on the anode side of the diode, and the white/black wire should be on the cathode side.

If I were to hazard a guess, I would say you have your diode backwards on the L terminal circuit. The other alternative is that there is a bad connection in the circuit.