SteveJ

Jim, Jim, Cliff, & Pat - Z Attack will be in 2017. Let's try to meet up there.

A 300ZX forum might be able to provide more information. Have you looked at http://www.xenonzcar.com to see if the FSM is available to get diagnostic info?

No bumperettes on the stainless, but it still looks nice. You can delete the rubber strip, too, but I opted to keep it.

Now I don't feel so bad about shelling out $2,000 for two sets of front & back stainless steel bumpers. Looks nice with the fresh chrome.

The 78 cap won't work on the 76.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41200-240z-gas-caps-are-outrageous-locking/?page=1

The VIN and door plate info could help resolve this.

Get some underside photos, especially of the frame rails and floor pans. It will help your cause.

Correct. Sometimes the springs break in the door mechanism, causing the door to lock automatically when it closes.

Holding the handle only works on the 77 & 78. Earlier Z cars only lock when the door is closed.

Good seeing you around, Philip.

The rumor I heard was Austin for 2017. There's always ZAttack in Nashville in 2017. That's my plan for next year.

Noticing how far forward the gear selector is, I would postulate that the Z has an autotragic transmission with a modified gear selector.

Have you tried an inline spark tester? http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Tools-Line-Spark-Tester/dp/B000MHNDSM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage That can tell you whether or not you have a strong spark. What is the timing set to? Have you used an ohmmeter to check the resistance from positive to negative and from the center post to negative on the coil? Report the readings. Do you have the stock transistor ignition unit? Have you verified the wiring for the ignition matches the factory wiring diagram?

The strange thing is that I have seen someone get the distributor 180 out before. Don't ask me how, but it happened.

I know I won't be going. The budget just won't allow it.

You do need a passport to travel from the US into Canada. I wish your son well at the trials.

As Zed said, use BE-10. You should have 12 VDC to ground at the white wire when the key is on the ON position. Moving the turn signal stalk up or down should not cause the voltage to ground at the white wire to stay at zero. It should cycle, going down to zero and return to 12 (though your meter probably won't react quickly enough to see it go all of the way up to 12) due to the flasher unit. Note: Keep the black probe of your meter on the chassis. That is your ground.

That's horrible news. Indeed, it is a sad day.

Heck, you wouldn't need locks at my house or Greg's. At my house, the car could be blocked in easily, and no one lives near Greg's house.

You're always welcome to make the drive out this way, Cliff.

Don't forget that your car got to be a part of parking 3 green 280Zs next to each other. All of them very nice.

Images of lug nut styles.

When you put it that way, it makes a lot more sense.

Steve, I went with the 11 inch rigid sleeve, too. It comes up to the right height for a re-upholstered seat. I've had the roadster belts in my 260Z for over 6 years. I installed the WELR belts in the 240Z 10 or 11 years ago. Between the two, the roadster belts work better, especially for the Z cars that don't have the pocket in the floor. Edit: I forgot that in the past I suggested buying the extra hardware kit. I used some pieces from it to make the installation go more smoothly.