HuD 91gt

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About HuD 91gt

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    1971 Datsun 240z - Stock

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  1. Well, I tightened everything up (differentials/control arm mounts) and checked again. The little bit of play is still there. I then tightened the axle nut to 225f/lb to see if it made any difference. Not a bit. I should have thought about this a little harder though, as all surfaces in the front and back and up and down “portions” are a press fit (when holding the tire from the side. Tightening the bolt really wouldnt do anything. More of an “in and out” when pushing and pulling the wheel. Jonathon, you do have me worried that I mixed up my spacers now. It “could” happen. Argh. I would pull them again but I had to rent the slide hammer last time. The axle which now has movement had none prior to changing. The other side now has none, where it had some play before (bearings really were shot on this side). I swapped them all out with Beck Arnley units. Sadly only the outers were Japanese Made. Hoping the Chinese inners don’t cause me grief.
  2. If I grab the tire in the 3 and 9 o’clock position, and push with right hand, pull with left, then the opposite I can actually get a small clunk. i remembered I haven’t tightened the front controls arm/diff bracket completely since rrmoving the diff. I will do that to see if the actually control arm is rocking.
  3. Just bringing this back up to the top as I’m doing the final adjustments with my rear bearings. Assembled and tighten the left rear up to 190f/lb. I don’t feel any play. I then noticed I left out the copper washer discussed above. Sincethis would have been installed afterwards I am ok with leaving it out. i have now tightened the right rear to 220f/lb and there is noticeable play when I put the tire on and give it some force. This side had no copper washer. It was also extremely tight on disassembly (although as stated the other side had a copper washer and should have been much less tight). It is possible I mixed up the axles as I was preparing and cleaning them. Spacers are still on the correct side. Should I be worried if i mixed them up?
  4. I drilled an appriately sized hole in a piece of 3/8” steel which supported the race and taped it through. Thanks guys.
  5. Perfect. Thanks for the info! I find that really strange. Ha
  6. The bearings are from Beck Arnley. The outer is a Japanese made made unit. im not new to installing bearings, what im confused about is the fact the inner bearing seems to be the same diameter as the outer. Sadly I didn’t lube the first section as I expected it to be a smaller diameter and slip right over. With the temperature difference between parts it slid on far enough I can’t remove without getting a little creative and hopefully not damage the bearing. If this is way it is supposed to be, I’ll manage to get it off, refeeeze/heat and be ready to press/tap immediately
  7. Hello, i was following the AtlanticZ website when changing my rear wheel bearings. I froze the rear axles, heated the bearing and tried to slip it on. I only got partway onto the inner machined surface for the outer bearing. It seems really odd that I would have to press the bearing over one surface before even getting to the surface it is suppose to mount too. Did I get the wrong bearings?
  8. I was under my car the other day, and those drivers side wires are just hanging there. I couldn't remember if it was supposed to be like that but the car still works My engine and transmission have been in and out several times though so it's possible they were dislodged? As for the shifter, my '71 required slight trimming, and the 260z shifter worked fine.
  9. Exactly, "race cam" is a bit of flakey term. Just like Stage 1, Stage 2 etc that we so often hear. Jibberish. Chickenman, FYI the increase in idle ignition timing in Tune #5 was just a test. I backed it off as I didn't really see any real benefit, and still wanted some real improvement for a idle "correction" in the lower RPM range. 23 degrees worked, for the correction, but I wasn't seeing any real benefit in idle quality. 20 degrees works well for idle, 22 for the low RPM correction. Anyone else with an aftermarket cam have any vacuum readings at idle?
  10. It is a P90 head that has been shaved a few times for straightness. The reason the CR is lower is the CC has had some material removed during the porting. The head has never been shaved to increase CR. Cam was degreed properly with an adjustable cam gear. Somewhere along the lines in my learning process I dropped the chain tensioner and ended up putting in an OEM cam gear as I ended up dialing it in at one full tooth advanced(Or was it retarded?) from a "stock setup". Don't ask my why, but now i've lost that adjustable cam gear somewhere in my moves. This all happened in the first couple hundred KM of the rebuild. I ordered a new one just to play around. The slots in the OEM gear are much too large (4 degrees). Reason I am suspicious, is the "Z man of Washington", (A fairly reputable Z business man in PNW) somewhere online stated no matter what cam you have, you should be seeing 14+" at idle unless it's an all out race cam. More curiosities sake then anything else. My car idles pretty decent. But, as you guys both mentioned. A lowish CR wouldn't help the situation. Was more a thread to see what other people are getting. So far, nothing too extreme.
  11. Well that's good relevant info for sure. I still need to find a few hours to get the thing running again.
  12. Hello everyone. I'm curious what everyone is able to get for idle vacuum with their aftermarket cam. I have a Colt Cams C542.s with the following specifications. Duration @ .50" 224 I/E or 280 degrees valve lift .510 Lobe Seperation 108" Engine is a L28 w/ about 8.7:1 compression. The best I can get using Megasquirt fuel injection is around 10"s. Sometimes jumps into 11" for short periods. Chickenman and I have been playing with the FI for a while now working out bugs, but my vacuum has always seemed a little suspicious to me. Either way, I just ordered a fancy schmancy adjustable cam gear to play around a little bit. What are you guys seeing for readings?
  13. Thanks for the pictures madkaw. I used a a holesaw, then fire method on the moustache bar. What a mess. For clean up I tried a few things, but the wire wheel worked best. I'd try a different method next time. I have my control arms being painted in a 2 part epoxy as we speak, it looks like your method here will work without screwing up my new paint. Should have removed the bushings first.