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About Roblaw

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  1. Thanks but I have the parts, I just need to re-cover the air recirc flap door in the heater box and I'm ready to go.
  2. I am going to investigate for a cowl leak.
  3. Here's my old heater housing. That flap door with the metal plate sandwiched between 2 padded vinyl cushions has a gaping hole in it. It has pretty much disintegrated. The vinyl makes it appear intact. Any ideas on what to replace the flap's vinyl cushions with on my "new" heater housing? They are peeling off and not in very good shape. I thought about putting tile shower floor lining on it with contact cement.
  4. Update. Got the old water control valve (formerly water c*ck) cleaned up and installed. Did not have to remove dash. Put the wire back on adjusted it, installed new hoses, clamps and tested it. No leaks, the heat now will adjust and turn off. Just waiting on the Ebay blower housing then I'll button it back up. I'm thinking about getting a belt for the AC compressor and see if I get AC too. It spins freely with my hand. I don't know why the PO disabled it but he did a lot of Jack-leg things to this car. He apparently didn't care if the car had heat or defrost, so who knows. I still need to get new tires before it's really road worthy and I'm having a dilemma: it has old Enkei rims 15x8, 0 offset and dry rotted 225/50 tires. The rear tires rub on fenders when going over bigger bumps. From what I've read, people have had success with this tire/rim combo. Do I buy the same size tires and hope they don't stick out as far past the rim as these do, or get new rims and tires I know will fit? Any thoughts?
  5. Got the water c*ck out. Not a horrible job and I have been dreading it and finding other things to do besides IT. Other than really stiff lever movement at 1st, it has really freed up and moves quite well now. Internally it looks really good. It hasn't moved in 20 years before I bought it. I think I'm gonna reinstall with new hoses and clamps. I already ascertained that the vacuum c*ck works when I restored vacuum to it. Wish me luck.
  6. I accomplished some Z things today, thanks to Corona-quarantine. I finally have heated water going to my cabin. I tracked down the vacuum issue for the vacuum part of the water valve (AC car). Bad part is the water c*ck lever does not operate right (difficult to slide). So, I cannot control heat. I think it will either be full blast or not at all unless I fix water c*ck. Captain O, I saw your write up about mounting one in the engine bay, and I may do something like that but I can't use the vacuum hose hole already in firewall. Plus the hose routing would be different unless I take the vacuum water valve out of the equation. Anybody work with a generic water valve that was easy to install? I guess I'm gonna have to get it working correctly. I do have OCD tendencies. Still waiting on my Ebay blower housing and switched gears a little, so recovered my seats. I had the passenger seat out anyway so I could get by body under the dash. Now all my fingers hurt. If you've ever done seat covers, you know what I mean.
  7. There are 2 for $70 ea. shipped. Seems pretty reasonable. One with the motor but no vacuum pot, the other no motor but has vacuum pot. I'm leaning towards one with motor for redundancy reasons.
  8. Yes, the extra wire connector goes to blower housing. Research tells me it is the heater resistor wire. My car came with AC (doesn't work) and the connector is longer and flatter, with 5 blades in it. The ones I see on Ebay are square with 4 blades. I assume they are from non-AC cars and maybe I have an extra blower speed. Anyway, it appears I can just put my resistor into the Ebay bought housing and be on my way. I will also have to transfer the vacuum pot for the fresh air door. Anything I should know about the blower housings? I think they are the same with only add on accessories for AC.
  9. Took my fan housing off to get to the heater **** and found the housing all rusted out at the fresh air intake and flap. Looked at some on Fleabay and found some that looked like they only had one wire connector to assemble. Mine has 2 connectors. Is there a difference between AC and non-AC fan housings?
  10. Siteunseen. I routed my PCV hoses like you did yours. Pretty cool, got rid of a small metal tube with bracket and about 4 hose clamps. Also discovered I still had the flame arrestor in my original hose. Thanks for that.
  11. Got some under hood time with the BCDD. With key in on position and touching solenoid wire to connector it would click. With car running and wire disconnected, car would idle up at ~2k rpm. Hook the wire back up and it would settle back down to 800rpm. Turning the screw on bottom of BCDD had no effect on the high idle when solenoid wire was disconnected. Took it for a drive and the rpms would stay up when shifting and coasting, worse than before. I could pull up the pedal from underneath and it would drop, but pretty hard to drive that way. I thought I was going to have to take the TB off and clean it but when I took the linkage off it, it seemed to slam close pretty good disconnected from all throttle linkage. I checked the throttle linkage and found the FPR rubbing on the linkage. What a pain getting that to move enough for it not to rub. I cleaned up the linkage, and the balls and greased them. Low and behold, rpms drop now when letting off gas to shift. I don't know if the BCDD works or not, but it's driveable now. Also discovered I don't have dash pot on TB either.
  12. Here's what the nut looks like. I can't turn it with my hand but it will plunge into the body of the BCDD with some resistance. It feels spring loaded or like pushing against air pressure. When I let up, it returns to the down position.
  13. Finally reinstalled the exhaust heat shields last night after clutch install. Then I started fiddling with the BCDD and found the bolt on the bottom hanging down moves in and out freely about a 1/2 inch, kind of floppy. When pushing in, there is what could be described as soft resistance. However, the bolt can not be twisted with just my grasping fingers. Is this normal or has the bolt been completely backed out which I believe would render BCDD inop? When I get more time, i'm going to pull the TB and clean it up.
  14. Thanks to both of you. I'll be cleaning TB in the next couple of days. Zed, funny you mentioned the PCV routing change. When I was putting the engine bits back together, I looked at pictures of 280z engine bays and noticed the PCV arrangement was different then mine. So much to learn. At least my other car obsession (Ford Maverick Grabber) is a simple beast.
  15. My mistake. When I pulled the plug wires, all cylinders stumbled the engine except #4 cylinder.