gundee

Never heard of the program. But I really don't watch TV any more except football and sometimes F1. Otherwise nothing ever gets done. Time spent watching I will never get back I guess.

Have you verified the stamp on your block to see if you even have a L24?

nomukin, My 1975 L28 block uses the same timing indicator you purchased. I may have the early type crank pulley on mine as I have the passenger side timing indicator and lines up perfect to my pulley. You would just need the other crank pulley like mine. Not so easy given your location I know.

Maybe where you are. High tomorrow here is 45 degrees and 48 degrees on Saturday. I'm done for the year anyway. Was at a track event last week and now its smoking antifreeze so head is coming off. A fresh rebuilt head will be going on it this Spring. Snow starts in about one more month. I need a heated garage.

Hmmm. I don't recognize that crankshaft pulley at all.

This is a 280Z issue with intakes. No amount of chemicals will touch the inside. This is from years of EGR entering the intake. The best thing you can do is as suggested have the inside media blasted. Then you want to hone out the runners smooth. Hard to find a good 280Z intake now days. They are all plugged up.

Lots of unknowns there. I know of two cases where the person drove it till it quit running. After it cooled off and added water there was not enough ring compression left for it to even start. The yards around me have so many engines they don't even have the room to put any more inside. The engines outlive the cars now. Exchanging for a nice low mileage one would be a good idea I think. Machine shop costs and parts really add up fast when repairing. Tough call.

" American Custom 071 cam (pretty big cam, I don't have the spec in front of me right now.)" I never heard of that Cam Company before.

What does it look like the rest of the note says on the tape. He may not want the distributor shaft gear to move out of phase.

Larry is quite the guy. He did some work on a head I bought out of Georgia. He lives out in the boonies and has no internet service. In fact he does not even own a computer. Very old school. His memory does not seem to be as good as it was. And it will take a while for him to get back to you. Very good machinist but not good at the business end of things. All word of mouth to even know about him.

I give my number with my order and still get charged full price anyway.

What shock is TTT using in their kits now? Still Koni?

I am in with the 15 X 7 wheel size group for stock bodywork. I use 205/60-15. The 205/50 series just did not look right to me. Too much wheel gap and smaller than stock overall diameter.

Same here. Just using the cast iron exhaust manifold. No drone at all and no resonator installed. Maybe its the cast iron manifold that helps eliminate the drone. I ported my stock cast manifold to match my N42 head as well. Very pleased overall.

I put the oval stainless Magnaflow on mine last year. Tight fit but I really like the sound. No pre muffler needed. I need to do some work to get it tucked up inside more.

From Pertronix Instructions: "The Ignitor ignition can be used in conjunction with most ignition coils rated at 1.5 ohms of primary resistance on eight cylinder engines and 3.0 ohms on four and six cylinder engines. For optimum performance purchase and install the recommendedFlamethrower high performance coil." When it says 3 ohm coil for 6 cylinder, that is if you bypass the ballast resistor.If you keep your resistor like I did so my tachometer would work, then youuse the 1.5 ohm Flamethrower coil. The MSD Blaster coil is less than 1 ohm and will not work.

I recently purchased a set of NGK for my Z. The caps on these were one piece. No threads to loosen.

I am curious. I see you run no vacuum advance. Does Rebello really recommend that for the street?

I don't think he is a member here. He just started running that car this year. He used to drive a Porsche 911. This car belonged to a friend of his he raced against. The car itself has been racing for quite awhile now. I expect he now owns it. I would have been there this weekend to watch had I not been in St Louis.

Does not look quite right to me. Leave crank where its at and pull the distributor. Check this for proper alignment phasing.

Red7. If they say its good in that location, then go with it. I assume they would know more than me. Here is an updated photo of where I installed mine in the factory location. The pump bracket shown came on my 72 from the factory.

I really like that set up much better than mine. My Mikuni manifold made in the 70's does not have the adjustable arms like yours. I just may have save and upgrade after seeing yours.

Pop's, funny you should mention that. I have been thinking the exact same thing. Its getting time for the 4:11 lsd diff. to go. Been 20 years since I ran my last autocross. Just cruise the roads now. I got old. I see you are in Fort Collins. I remember a trip to Fort Collins back when I was stationed at Lowry AFB in Denver. Four of us drove up to see check out the pubs. It was a hell of a drive back. In fact we had to pull off and sleep in the car. What happened when we woke up is another story. Ha.

That is the pump I use in the rear. I am not too sure that location is going to work. I have never seen one located there. I think that is a pusher pump. Not made to pull fuel. Maybe someone that has done this can tell us.

Is your email system down? Very hard to get a response from your site.