gundee

I prefer sand paper and wire brush. Degrease with a paint prep solvent. Then I use spray can self - etching primer. Use as directed. Then spray pan with Rustoleum paint. The automotive paint mix guy at the auto parts store told me not to waste my money on that POR stuff. As he puts it. Way too much work for mostly poor results.

I understood those oil pain rails only came on the Automatic Transmission versions. Not sure why.

Thats great because I doubt the 280 parts I am looking at are from a California model. So if there were an ECU it would be a Federal model. I had not considered that.

I had asked about this in a previous thread. I thought that is what they might indicate. I just didn't know how deep those were. I read to start shimming after .015 cut. I thought those looked deeper than .015 uncut but they could be .015. I would have to measure.

I am planning the trip on Sat 2/13 or Sun 2/14. The person is only available on weekends. There is a complete dash too. I will get a photo if someone is interested. I am pretty sure all the cars wiring harnesses are there too.

Jai. I am going to look at some 280Z parts in a couple weeks that a person wants to get rid of. If things look good I will buy the whole lot. I just don't know yet what year they are from. It was gutted to build a race car. If there is a ECU and it fits your car, you can have it for free.

I have that exact camshaft. I told Racer I wanted an autocross cam and that is what he ground for me.

3000 hours invested. What is the labor rate there in Pounds if you have a shop do all the work? Then you add in the cost of all the parts. Including a new rebuilt engine.

I don't know why the reply function double spaces on my computer. It did not use to as I recall.

You really need to get that old oil out. It may be full of raw gas. If it is too rich the cylinder walls are getting washed down. Then the rings are next to go if that is happening.

I will give you my method. This is for when the system is drained empty from doing work such as you did. It took me a very long time to figure this out on my own. I was doing what you are doing with poor results. First remember the front and rear are separate systems. You can start wherever you want & on which side you want. The farthest bleeder is a myth in my opinion. Using the pedal to bleed an empty system is not only time consuming but is also fruitless in getting a good pedal. Start by filling the master cylinder which is already completed in your case. Next pick either the front or the rear and open one of the bleeders and gravity drain keeping an eye on the master cylinder level. Then close bleeder and go to the other side and repeat. Do not touch the brake pedal yet. This is what ruins the process. Next go to the opposite end you started (front or rear) and repeat the same process. On an empty system you will go through about one and a half cans. Now with all the bleeders closed, try the brake pedal. If you have drained enough fluid through you should now have a rock hard pedal. Try it out. Cannot hurt a thing. I have not used a hand vacuum pump instead of gravity but that should work good as well.

I installed this same Pertronix last year using the the ballast resistor and 1.5 ohm Pertronix coil. Ran perfect all Summer. Maybe I should get a spare to carry in the car.

This car price is pocket change for Saudi Arabia and UAE Buyers. Owners probably have at least 90K invested into it.

BRE ran 14X7 wheels. The wheels shown on my car above are 14X6-1/2 Minilites painted gunmetal. I sold those Minilites to a vintage racer in Texas that runs an MGB. Datsun and MGB = same same. I then changed over to the gunmetal 15X7 Rewinds. I would rather have them all gunmetal without the polished outer rim. I also want to get the my car a bit lower just like moelk's car.

This is what mine looked like. Tail panel, spoiler and wheels all the same color. This is not really the true Nissan light panel cover color. I found a color pretty close and repainted all 3 items the same.

I originally painted mine in contrast like you have now. However I didn't use black. I painted the spoiler same color as the tail light panel. After many years like that I wanted a change and now went back the same color as the car on the spoiler. I think if you do the spoiler and tail light panel the same color you will like it even better.

Pull the booster hose from your manifold. Then install a short piece of hose on the manifold and plug it. Take it out to the traffic and if it still dies then the booster is not the issue. Don't buy more parts before you are sure.

Choke for 1 minute in Panama? I live in the north, and only can drive in Summer where it rarely hits 90 degrees. I pull choke 1/2 way, starts immediately and shut choke off. I don't get it. This makes my head hurt.

$600 for the camshaft work? That's nuts. What shop was that anyway?

I am glad to hear Victor Laury is doing well as he was in poor health from what I gathered. I recall his Roadster was raffled off to help with health expenses. I sent money but never heard who won the car. The site was taken down and I never heard a word. Anybody know more?

That car should run and idle perfect with all that has been put into it. Even if it did run at 3/4 on the temp gauge. By the looks of those plugs it looks like the choke is stuck. Plugs are loading up. That is not from heat. Being in Panama I would disconnect the choke cables from the linkage and make sure the jet tubes are pushed all the way up. (off) Then set the mixture per the video and go. I would also back up and verify the cam timing was installed correctly since you changed cams. I don't think all those ignition timing changes will do much unless that cam is correct. What say you Z Therapy?

The spark plug gap per the factory service manual says .031 to .035. Pertronix says you can add .005 on top of that if you wish, using their coil. Some really don't notice that much difference. I have my Pertronix set at .035 plug gap. That particular camshaft is actually their lowest grind. No problems there. May want to advance the cam gear to hole number 2 if not already.

The Mikuni intake I have is also all separate runners. The brakes work just as good as with the prior SU's. I just got new individual adjusters to get a much better carb sync. Have to wait till Spring though now.

1. He is running a Pertronix set up in his distributor. 2. He has the internal regulated alternator upgrade per photos.

I see you have the Nissan single groove crank pulley as well. Nice. I have one myself.