gundee

The idea of a badly worn crank drive gear and or distributor spindle gear sounds like a possible culprit. I would like to see you drop the oil pump and spindle to inspect both the gears.

Put the shocks up for sale here if you are not going to use them. Somebody could use them and you could recoup your money spent.

Montana Tools are made in USA. Very nice. http://www.montanabrandtools.com/collections/all

I have a free differential mustache bar if that broke. However, its for a R180. Jai's could be a R200 though.

Another thing you guys will want to do is check Jai's distributor vac advance unit with a hand pump vac. Very important that it works for both good running and good gas mileage.

It actually sounds to me just like the factory one. I run a stainless Magnaflow muffler and really do not even notice the pump running while driving.

Those are good numbers. Especially if a cold test.

I am using the Facet 1105 pump. It is a dead on match replacement for the factory pump. Using no regulator and its working perfect. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=85

What is under that distributor rotor? Points? Electronic pick up?

Yes, you can see the head has been off as with the valve cover off, is real clean. I also see its a E88 head with no spray bar. Internal oiled cam?

I like the two tone paint job with the white engine bay.

I am useing the BP6ES-11 with my Pertronix ignition kit with Pertronix coil. Works well.

You can buy those right from MSD too.

Download the Factory 280Z FI Manual. Its excellent. Will give you the full understanding of how your system works. We found 280's are even running around with plugged up exhausts. A definite mileage problem. Honda's and Toyota's are famous for the same thing.

Pull all 6 plugs, not just one. Also run a compression test. Report PSI of each cylinder.

I ran a fuel pressure test right at each carb with no return line and got 3.5 psi. I then did the same test with the return line hooked up and got 3.25 psi. I decided then to leave my return line hooked up. Continuous cool fuel supply that way. This is without a fuel pressure regulator of course.

My issue turned out to be that holley regulator. It was restricting my fuel flow or pressure or both, I don't know. But when I removed it, It solved my Mikuni problems. The car would loose power like it was running out of fuel. A sledge hammer took care of that regulator. I made sure that was never going on another car. I was a little pissed.

Is this the single seam? Shown at the bottom of the wheel. Are you referring to the dual colored ones as the 3 seam?

I have put those on 3 different cars. I was not aware there were different ones. All 3 I installed were exactly the same. Never heard of single and three seam.

This just happened to my 72 two weeks ago. It was just a blown fuse on mine. So far so good. If it blows again then I have an issue.

I did this a long time ago, but I found, I think it was the rear studs were longer than the fronts. I purchased longer studs from Nissan Motorsports for the rear. I then put the longer rear studs in the front hubs. That way I had the same thread pitch all around.

Long story short. Yesterday the right rear brake line snapped off on me while disconnecting it. I will have to replace it and it goes all the way to the junction block in the center of car. I likely will have to drop the differential to get at it. I will replace the other side as well as long as I am that far. After all, they have only been on there for 43 years. Ha. I was going to drive it to a large car show on the 16th but that may be unlikely now. Don't have a lot of time available to work on it. Got to order the new lines now.

I think you are near Whitehead Performance. They have a lot of Z parts or can link you up with one.

I have one that came off a 1972. Only fits 72 and later Z's with a R180. Anyone can have it for free. Just cost of shipping. Taking up room in my garage.

I have those same exact shocks in mine. They are well over 20 years old. I seem to remember being told that model was not rebuildable. You would have to call Koni direct to confirm. The car rides so bad now I am just going to replace them. Not sure with what yet.