Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


nomuken last won the day on December 21 2015

nomuken had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

25 Excellent

About nomuken

  • Rank
    Active Member


  • Map Location

Recent Profile Visitors

1,239 profile views
  1. Digging up this older post. I have a series 1 to, still stock 4 speed. Do you have to cut the trans tunnel at all with the SX gearbox? I don't want to cut it and the idea of a 90§ bent shifter isn't appealing to me. So a SX 5spd swap might be the solution...
  2. Before tearing the car completely apart sometime next year, I’m trying to repair, retrofit, modify, optimize a few things. As the car wasn’t that nice to drive, first thing was to remove the cut springs and replace them by some new ones of the same brand. Of course it now looks a bit high, imho, but it drives way better. Cut springs had no preload at all, dampers had only about 3/4 inch of travel and the slightest compression would let it sit on it’s bumpstops. For comparision: As it sits with the new springs, the rear is OK, the front would aesthetically benefit of a slight drop. I also removed the worn aftermarket steering wheel and fitted my Nardi ‘deep’ which I had laying around. Unfortunately I did not have a matching horn button. I’m not sure what steering wheel I’ll mount after the resto, I'm tending towards a Datsun Compe wheel or a Nardi black and wood. I sourced a non series 1 driveshaft, moustache bar and rear transverse link. This is all thats needed to change the rear drivetrain to the later geometry. While at it I also changed the diff support for a hangingt RT diffmount. No more diff straps or rubber bumpers for Tosbo. In my quest to optimize the driving sensation a bit more, the car needed a rear swaybar. As it hadn’t any at all. I ordered a complete ST suspensions swaybar set from the US. And the biggie, something most will probably not understand. I got rid of the Webers. I love simple things, things that can be mended during a road trip, things that are set and forget and most of all, things that are driveable under pretty much every condition. So I removed my 40DCOEs and got myself a set of nicely refurbed Hitachi 4screws with an early airbox. And yes, the car drives a lot smoother with minimal load (under 2500rpm) and around town with the stock SU. As I had 1 240Z with SU and this one with Webers, it was easy to compare. And I just prefered driving the SU. Above 5000rpm the Webers are way better though. As for the issue with the uneven front/rear drop: The easiest way to gain a bit more low at the front an be able to dial in a bit of camber are some camber plates from SilverMine, which are in fact just Mookeh camber plates with studs mounted in the right pattern which lower the car approx 3/4 of an inch without sacrificing preload or shock travel. Mounted everything up and dialed it in at -1.6° camber and some mild toe-in. Car drives so much better with the new setup (Vogtland, ST swaybars, camber tops, excentric inner LCA bushes. Next thing needing attention: I have a slight slack and clonk when accelerating/decelerating somewhere in my drivetrain. U-joints are all good, diffmount has bees swapped to RT, engine mounts have been renewed. Hopefully I'll find the culpript. Let's cross fingers it's not the gearbox.
  3. Tires are 195/65R14 on the darker wheels and 195/60R15 on the gold work equips. I prefer the more meaty look with higher sidewalls. Scaffolding are the bumper overrider guards, the bars that mount over the bumpers, the towel bars the yellow one is 11533
  4. That's just a photoshop I made on the blue one. Because IMHO they look better without the side repeaters. I made it to print a poster for my office ? Here is a recent one with the new wheels: The yellow one had scaffolding front and rear and has the dreadful side ding protector strip. Removed the scaffolding and the bumperettes The side trim, and side repeaters will be deleted once the car is in the body shop
  5. A dream came true, again. I acquired a second Datsun 240Z. At the end I couldn’t resist any longer and had to buy this yellow beauty from my best mate!So back in December 2019 my mate Yves decided to sell his series 1, what a bad decision. I hesitated to long, and it was pretty much sold. But as there was a mishap with the buyer, I’ve been given a second chance and now it’s mine. Couldn’t be any happier. So here it is how I bought it: Cool story, back in 2004 (or was it 2005) this particular car was my first real encounter with a 240Z. I knew since my first 350Z ownership in 2003 that I would love to own a 240Z, but as they aren't really common here in Europe this yellow and a purple one which was parked just next to it where the first S30 I really laid my eyes on. Even took 3 picture of it back then, so here is one of them. And yes it's 100% the same car my best buddy bought about 13-14 years later. 1970 series 1 240Z, 4-speed, originally in universal blue, but refinished 30+ years ago in yellow. Still has its original engine. Was mounted with triple Webers when I bought it. Original owner’s manual, 30 years of history documents,… Missing just a few series 1 details like the fan, radiator,… As for the owner history of this car I did a bit of research: 2020-infinity: Mine 2017-2020: Yves M. (Luxembourg-Europe) 1999-2017 : Gilles K. (Luxembourg-Europe) 1989-1999 : Hans-Juergen Boeling (Hamburg/Germany-Europe) this P.O. imported the car from the USA. He did a resto and decided on the colour. It’s RAL1028 Melon Yellow. Succesfully contacted, nice old guy, creator of his own sports car brand: Interclassic Cinco Z 1970-????: Original owner. Mr Theodore/Ted G Alexander from Phoenix AZ (would love to have his contact details to complete the cars history) But why a second S30? Why not ? I always wanted to build my personal dream car from the ground up. So this will be a nut&bolt resto, I can/will do everything myself exept for the bodywork. It will get a serie 1 color. Not 100% decided yet, but most probably 907 racing green, if not it will be safari yellow. It won’t be a purist or concours car, I love driving these cars to much. So just as my blue one it will have some upgrades like seats, suspension, swaybars, drivetrain, wheel&tires. Nothing crazy! And while this project is happening I will still be able to enjoy 240Z driving in my blue 73. From our annual trip through the alps. Been 3 times, it's always a 4-5 days roadtrip with friends. Approx 1600miles an +20 alp passes per trip More to follow soon.
  6. Hi folks, so when I bought my '70 240Z I had the opportunity to buy some steel wheels and hubcaps. Even though they weren't MY correct (wheels are stamped 72 and slightly used and the hubcaps are "Z" hubcaps not D hubcaps) I jumped on it and bought them. The hubcaps are NOS in their bags. The question now is, how rare is a set of NOS ones? It's kind of tempting to mount them on the car, even though I would'nt really drive them as I prefer my Works, Wats,... So are NOS caps valuable? To valuable to fit them and regret later?
  7. Lack of updates, so here is the last pic with the old bumpers. My group harrington 240Z bumpers arrived. I will mount them asap
  8. Thanks for the advice. unfortunately some of my rubbers are already in 2-3 pieces and some of the rubber fixing bolts are completely gone because of rust. I tried belgom to, it's a terrific product. Works really well. But when there is no chrome left, there is nothing to polish
  9. Yes, looks way cleaner, especially on the way to big 73 bumpers. Unfortunately the chrome underneat is quite scratched. But my bumpers are all in all only nice from a 10feet disance. The rubber strips are all brittle and the chrome is quite gone in some places. I will get some new bumpers once my bank account lets me
  10. So, the suspension is dialed in. I fitted the BRE style lip, did some more minor things. But at's still snowing outside, here is another pic from the car in the shelter: And another pic taken yesterday after cleaning the car,...
  11. So after over 4 months on jackstands I managed to have most of the parts bolted back onto the car. I mounted my freshly painted rims and put it on the ground. Feels so good to see it sitting on all four tires. Need to dial in the coilovers now and do a complete geometry. For reference, the coilovers (BC Racing) are lowered all the way down at the moment. The rear is exactly where I want it to be. The front will be raised 5-10mm and I’ll have to dial out quite some camber! ">
  12. And just when I started to reinstall the front axle I found a little rust bubble in the drivers side wheel well where the engine crossmember attaches. So I decided to scrub both front wheel wells back to bare metal and cure them. 2 small rust spots on the drivers side and another one on the passenger side were welded. (Thanks Pentti) Then I applied some rust converter on the complete area, primered and painted it with Brantho Korrux, applied some transparent undercoating and sprayed some waxoil in the cavities of the front frame. Front and rear axle parts are now back on the car. Still have so many little things to do before the car will be off from the jackstands. This week I'll finish the interior. Passenger bucket seat, Radio block off plate,... and I'll change the brake fluid, coolant, oil&filters,... Next week I'll hopefully get my wheels back from painting so I'll be able to get the car on the lift and do a basic geometry
  13. Found a second fuel pump under my 240Z. It's made by Dupree. Was searching the web a bit and found it could have been an dealership modification. Does anyone have more info regarding: -Why were they fitted? -How were they electrically switched and connected? -Would I be better of by removing both pumps and just running on a Holley electric pump,... My engine is and will stay equipped with roundtop SU's if that matters
  14. More progress, rear suspension completed and ready to go back in the car
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.