gundee

Heck yes,I have seen that video before too. Is that your 240Z?

As a follow up I did get the old line removed from the junction block. It turns out the hard lines to the left and right rear flex lines are NLA. I made one and worked out good. I also replaced the original hard lines that go on the drum backing plates. Those are still available. Finished up by installing braided stainless flex lines. Have to put the same lines on the front yet.

http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/about-us/ I think Dave is still looking for the correct connectors for the 280Z yet.

Nice big wheels and tires too. Didn't notice before it had those. Looks very nice.

Thanks guys. I have the dished pistons but don't really know what year this E88 came from. It has the bigger valves put in it as well.

Where is this nifty tool? I have a E88 that is shaved .048 and want to see what CR I get put on a N42 block.

Pick up a 8mm stud removal socket. You will wonder how you ever got by without it.

I do have a like new ignition switch you can have. Remove yours and install this. Just 2 screws. Just one more thing to eliminate. Just PM me with your mailing address. It sounds like the car is getting better the more you drive it. I do not think you have a fuel issue like before anymore.

Yes, I believe this came direct from what was then called Datsun Competition Department in California. The guy I purchased this from was a former Factory Datsun Dealership Sales Rep. Guess you are right. Have to keep this manifold as is.

Likely not the only issue with RB but I am becoming suspicious of the ignition switch itself. It does not happen very often but they do go bad. If it were mine as long as we are trying parts out, I would try a different switch. I did have a spare so I will see if I can find it.

This is what I am fighting. Original set up right out of the 1970's. You can see that the 3 arms and the main rod are all one piece. No adjustment there. Your old manifold looks better than this one I have.

Best combo I have ever used. Super Clean with a designated water only garden sprayer. Spray cleaner long enough to loosen grime then rinse with the low pressure sprayer. With the long nozzle you can direct rinse water exactly where you want it. No over spray.

When you do get it repaired it looks you will be again without transportation for a bit. Best way would be a small section of a donor quarter panel to weld in. Otherwise some hack body shop will fill it full of mud and out the door. Make sure to get a very good amount for repair from the insurance company to do it correctly.

If you do have a leak, the fiber insulator blocks between the carb and manifold have been known to crack with age. If you put new ones on when you put the new carbs on then not.

As far as the black spark plugs go, it could be just the cold start injector not shutting off all the way or even shutting at all.

Have you checked the level of the radiator yet? When it is cold of course. If its low, Houston we have a problem.

Hope this photo is good enough. Now back to NFL game.

The pedal along with some spare parts is at the garage I put the Z away for the winter. When I get back from work Saturday, I will try to drive out there and bring it home to photo.

Now if that were a Porsche 356 in that condition, it would sell for around $20K as is. And I'm not kidding!

Also, I have a 280Z pedal that I noticed has a heavier return spring. I thought thats a good idea but when I started to swap it out I found out the ball socket on the top of pedal does not line up with with the 240Z linkage. Hole in the firewall on the 280 must be different. Thats as far as I went.

I agree. A professional restorer with a frame rack would have a hard time putting that chassis back together. Parts, parts, parts. Keep for spares. That would have to be 1969 chassis no. 00001 to even attempt. IMO.

I can attest to linkage bind on my Mikuni's as well. Worked all Summer adjusting linkage, changing a 280Z firewall link rod, different lengths of individual carb link rods. All trying to free up bind and using better linkage mechanical advantage. I finally got it to work and return to idle position good enough to remove the added return spring that just created more pedal effort.

If you or anyone needs a camshaft, I have the 'C' Datsun camshaft with all the matching rocker arms marked. I have new lash pads to go with them too which you should use. The existing lash pads should be removed as they are worn in with the existing rocker arms. I just pulled this set up out of my own engine. When I installed this cam I unbolted the passenger side motor mount. Jacked the engine enough. Slid the old out and the new in easily clearing the radiator.

Its just that the site you refer to showed how classy a lot of the members are when another member went to the dark side. Kept the money from all who purchased items he had advertised and never shipped. Lots of excuses offered. Most members thought it was funny as heck that some got ripped off. The Owner of that site is really spineless and pathetic IMO.

If you have them use them. Weber of Spain is critical of quality of some of their jets. If you find that, use the Weber jets. If I were to buy new I would choose OER carbs over Weber myself.