Yarb

@Captain Obvious

Hey my friend I’m on year 6 and finally closing in.

When you received the booster was the rod inside the booster secured to the master cylinder mounting studs with rubber bands? That procedure keeps the rod and the disc firmly in place preventing it from being dislodged and falling to the bottom.

I thought the same thing this morning. Another thought, I f the disc has fallen to the bottom of the booster would that prevent the rod from making a complete full cycle in the master cylinder. Just a thought at this point you’ve certainly checked everything else.

You have definitely gone through the system piece by piece. Hopefully you’ll get some feedback on the pedal travel.

Well I did find it in the desk drawer. Bought it awhile back.Ive accumulated so many parts during this build I can’t remember what I bought. Send me a pm if you’re interested. John

I guess I’m getting old here literally. I might have that piece you’re looking for that was printed. When I get to the shop I’ll take a look and report back.

I can’t I’ve seen them while looking for other parts. I’ll let you know if I do.

I’ve seen them on the market where they are 3d printed?

Just for grins, Why not remove the proportioning valve and plumb it back to stock. Take that variable out of the equation. See what happens and go from there.

That’s fantastic, hopefully you don’t have to make a new line.

I’m sure you bench bled the MC before bleeding correct. Even if you didn’t, as much bleeding you’ve done so far I would think that air would have escaped at this point. Definitely a strange one. Has the bleed machine arrived yet?

It might be bspt as well.

You fooled me my friend when you said cheap after I saw those in the pic!!😂😂

Datsun Spirit installed a brass pipe thread plug in mine during the build.

I have a used set from a 78 280 that I pulled off when I went to rear disc.

To my recollection the 75 Z didn’t have an egr valve on the intake. I think that’s why they have been in such demand. A lot cleaner intake setup.

Are those carbs Mikuni’s or Webber’s?

What part of the country are you located?

Soak all the hardware with Kano Kroil penetrating oil. It really works well. By the way is that a ZX motor in the car? I see the blower mounted to passenger side of the block.

Grab a bolt the correct size. You haven’t really diagnosed the issue at this point. IMO

Did you replace any of the steel brake lines on the car during the build. The reason I ask is I had a similar problem, Hooked it up to a vacuum bleeder machine and we found a couple at “T” locations at the front and rear that appeared to be tight.

That’s the correct positioning.

@Terrapin Z might be able to provide one if you can’t find the original.

Head up to Ace hardware. They have a multitude of taps & dies. Grab the factory size tap and try to start it by hand and if it starts to bite that’s a good sign. From there use the tap handle to continue on. I originally thought the stud had snapped which is happens in that position most of the time. It’s very common. After looking at the pics again I see a complete stud.The threads maybe just buggered up. Search on you tube it’s not difficult to do.