jonbill

I use normal water/antifreeze plus some water wetter. seems a better compromise than the waterless stuff.

I think if you've tried swapping injectors and leads from other cylinders onto #1 and it doesn't make a difference, then it must be something about the route into the cylinder - either the valves aren't opening properly or there's something in the way - gasket maybe?

follow the instructions in the book. How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun Ohc https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1931128030/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_9V7X0J9VS8R27RZTFBM6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I think its unlikely to have taken 1 minute for the fuel pressure to have come up. 1 minute of running will get some heat into the valves and inlet, so fuel vaporisation is massively better after a minute. it just sounds like a lack of cold start enrichment to me.

I think BPR6ES are gapped at 0.8 and BPR6ES-11 are the same, but gapped at 1.1. Either can be re-gapped to something else.

They're exploiting the community trust that comes with a forum. A lot of requests for parts are from new and occasional users, and when a "mikegreen008" pops up with a PM saying, 'hey, I've got what you need', they just trust, assuming they're the newbie and mikegreen008 is an established member of the community.

My guess is that the slowness comes from database performance. For me, only the 'unread content' page is consistently very slow - between 9 and 10 seconds to load. Other pages (individual threads) are sometimes slow, but normally OK. The 'unread content' page is more complex that most of the other pages I imagine- it could involve an unoptimised join in the database or the join happening outside the database (specifically, on the webserver).

the fans being on shouldn't affect the engine getting up to temp too much. if the engine isn't up to the thermostat temp, it's shut and no hot water goes to the radiator to be cooled by the fans. having said that, when I had electric fans, I did fit a thermostatic switch in the thermostat housing. I couldn't find one that matched the thread of the spare hole, so I ended up with a Volvo 240 switch that is M14 and tapped the hole to match. like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FEBI-BILSTEIN-FE01102-Temperature-Switch-radiator-fan-OE-REPLACEM-XX3011-224836-/324422697346

have you looked at the underside of the manifold?

look for the air leak on the engine side of the balance tube. maybe....

So... Front 3 cylinders run lean with two different carb setups. the lean condition is probably not down to the carbs. what else do all 3 front cylinders have in common? did both carb sets use the same manifold? look for hole in the manifold, or warped mounting face.

no, like SteveJ says, mine also lifts on the body. I lift the Z with a cross beam on the compression rod pickups at the front and rubber blocks on the rear sill jacking point.

I bought mine 2nd hand here in the UK, its branded Hofmann, but I don't think this model is made any more.

There's a couple of kinds of scissor lifts - mine does give good access to everything.

yeah, that sounds like everything 😊

Can I ask how you checked it was TDC compression? did you check the position of #1 cam lobes etc? it might not be timing of course, but things keep pointing that way IMO.

That also sounds like it might be ignition timing problem. when you set the distributor spindle timing, did you check the engine was at TDC #1 compression?

a longer bolt will allow you to get the washer and nut on and compress the bushes down.

your distributor spindle looks right now 👍🏻 the leftmost (or most anti clockwise) marker on the pulley will be 0 or TDC. the marks to its right are in 5 degree increments. the 0 marker should be aligned with the pointer on the timing cover at TDC. is it? depending how your timing gun works, 0 may be the correct marker to line it up with.

I think its just evidence of poor maintenance. m6 bolts are allowed, and rusty short ones break as much as rusty long ones.

I've worked on engines for 6 or 7 years and I've seen several worse designs. like the 1zz piston or the n47 timing chain.

https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+distributor+spindle+timing

this is the gear on the crank that that spindle engages with, as it goes diagonally across the top of it at about 10 o clock.

their shared spindle which is driven by a gear on the crank shaft.

That'll just dilute the engine oil with rustbuster, won't go anywhere near the oil pump!