jonbill

I think I've been to Turku. Is it Turku where the moomins come from?

I believe you - certainly mine doesn't have synchro on reverse but I haven't found the gear selector strange at all, in fact that's one of its best bits in that it came with a nice quick shift kit. It's been plenty strong enough for me, but I'm not into turbos. I believe them to be good for circa 350-400bhp.

UK/European S13 and S14 200sx have Fs5w71c gearboxes too.

It's this kit I expect: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20j/23-4190 It's cheap and works. The stock compression rod setup isn't a great design.

It's always good to have your valve clearances correct, but I'd check the colour of your spark plugs. Also what did your old fuel filter look like? Any rust in it?

I don't know when they were introduced, but they were still there on my 81 280zx (engine).

Good to know, thanks.

I appreciate that, but why bother keeping the TBs cool? Surely they don't transfer a significant amount of heat to the air going in, and they're insulated from the injectors and anyway the injectors and the fuel rail hold very little fuel compared to carbs, so...? Maybe the answer is that its easy so why not. I'll be installing ITBs over the winter and it's a question I hadn't considered.

Why bother with the heatshield if you're just having the bodies open to the hot air above the exhaust?

I think that's normal and it's fine. It's a tiny amount, a degree or two. And wear/stretch will retard it bringing it closer to nominal perfection.

I always assumed that Toyota had set the benchmark with the 2000GT.

Do you have stock air intake and filter? Stock exhaust manifold? Heatshields between exhaust and inlet?

Is the brake pedal soft then? Not completely clear if pedal is soft and no braking or hard and no braking.

Yes, 440 is the lowest common multiple. https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/math/lcm.php And 440/#cam teeth = 11

That's about an hour late. 11.25 is what you're looking for on #1 TDC. There are many threads here on it. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/44470-where-the-heck-is-the-1-spark-plug-wire-supposed-to-be-on-the-distributor/

I found this very interesting. The good oils in this test are expensive in the UK, if available at all, but it at least gave me values for zinc and phosphate levels I should have. (1400ppm+) I recently bought some eastwood additive and so looked it up, and it seems to have the right sort of amounts for a Z sump full. https://www.eastwood.com/ew-zddp-oil-additive-4-oz.html

I think it might be correct that the fuel pump only runs on "start". There may be an oil pressure switch that means the pump only runs when "on" if the engine is spinning.

I don't think the fuel pump is meant to run on acc. Acc is for accessory, like the radio. "On" is where fuel pump and the ignition get powered. Based on my 74 260, I wait to be corrected!

Probably either, depending which buttons you've pressed on your timing light. It sounds like you've got a dial back timing light, which might have options to either read the ignition advance off the engine or the timing gun. You'd probably need to read its instructions to be confident of doing it right.

The bolts only been in there for 100 miles! It should come out easily.

The broken bolt will have to come out. If it was recently rebuilt, that bolt shouldn't be rusted or seized into the block and you might get it out with stud extractor, with the block in situ.

Rebuilt engines need the zddp protection more if anything. Older engines I think may have a degree protection from work hardening.

Ah, interesting. Is that with that middle carb disconnected from the linkage? If so, I'd suggest something in that carb is binding as it heats up and the metal expands. Could be the throttle plates themselves (need recentering) or possibly the shaft or bearings.

When its hot and acting up, can you still close the throttle plates with your fingers?

That makes sense.