dutchzcarguy

Yeah.. seems to be repairable!! I've seen cars that had fiberglass repairs and came out to be unrepairable.. Think you can restore the damage because its not to much! 👍 I'm curious how the corner just in front of the left rear wheel comes out when you take the glassfiber out there..

Sure hope it's not a scam! WOW.. 100$ for a set of 4 of them?? can i have a set...or 5? 🙂

On the right of the hole i see rust...steel.. on the left there is no rust and glass fibres in the edge of the fender... so.. this was a local repair with glassfibres.. that's a bad omen!!

You take it with a smile but this car needs a lot.. all depends on what's under the fenders.. Could be a little and could be gone completly bad.. On the pic of the front of the rear wheels i see some glassfibre repair... A BIG ALARM just went off!! I know what you are going thrue.. In 1991 i bought a 240z ... original Dutch (Read: complete pile of rust!!) ... After i removed the flooring i took all the good parts off of the car and called the local wrecker to pic up the car... it went with a good roof.. damn... the rest was junk.. Today i still drive a 240z with euro (Dutch) drivetrain! 😉 I'm curious what's under the fenders please remove them and make some pics and place them here!

Before you even put more hours and work in this body... (i would not restore the damage it's to much..) take a good look under the front fenders near the doors.. I think the body is to far gone there.. as it is a real collector from mud and water. Damn that bottom is rusty! Don't know your budget but get yourself a better body i think!

Take a good look at the following picture.. That's why i should restore this car before i even consider to sell.. this feb 1971 car does restored between 35 and 80000 dollar.. (I got some rear wheel arches for it and everything else.) What i want for it as is.. is a difficult question to answer! This type is the most valuable at the time for me as it does not have the (leaky) rear deck vents and already the side vents but has (almost?) all the other 1st type features.. i can't put a price on it, and also if i sell now i want to sell some parts also for it so the next owner can make it a good restored car.. But i am under the impression that you want a turn key car? (Ready to go?) Wrong wheelarches and a very bad paintjob..

Hahaha.. yes.. i have no pictures! It's a solid car only the fenders have a little rust and the hood is gone bad on the front.. but those parts i never took off.. This car looks like a pile of crap.... Yes it's a original 4 speed ami that i converted to a euro original 5 speed (and diff!) with orig 2,4 Ltr engine. roundtop carbs and euro balance tube! I think i better restore this car first because people always judge a car on it's paintjob! Something that one shoud NOT do because the bodywork on a 240z in much more important.. I do have all the parts to restore it to a 50 grand car....(Brand new hood.. and lots of other stuff) Even a orig. euro 5 speed gearbox extra and a orig 2,4 ltr engine that i could use to make a stroker or so keeping the matching numbers engine original to the car.... possibilities possibilities..... pff, that's gonna take me another 7-9 years.. I restored the engine by giving it some new gaskets and oil seals in 2007. Today after 51 years it still drives over 200kph! But this is not what your looking for, you want a car that is ready to drive, this one is roadworthy but needs a complete restoration.. some pics from 2012.... (Original was the car silver.. not Ferrari red..)

Yeah.. the seller just thinks if he really wants a z car.. he will come and take a look at it.. and when your in the neighbourhood you drive another 30km and maybe you can make a offer on my 240z.. it's paintjob is bad (over 30 years old i guess) but it's solid and always had APK and i drove it over 21 years! It's the wanted early type 240z from (feb)1971

I could say about 3mm would be a nice gap? (1/8 inch? ) For all the gaps you mention.. just know that the gap on these oldtimers are smaller than the gaps on modern cars i think? always start with the door to quarter panel, then the fender to door and combine that with the hood to fender gap! The hatch is simply 1 part that just fits..or not.. than you have to do some welding until it fits.. Look local at old car gaps and take some measures of it..

Eh.. are they not the same BPR6ES from NGK? Overhere they are the same in my 240z '71 and 280zx '79.. theire gap is also 1,1 mm. (could be to big for the 240z ignition but it runs perfect on it..)

Maybe you can make some out of plexiglas on a lath.. @Captain Obvious? Can you give some exact dimensions?

Don't know exactly what you mean with a "clear washer" .. i think a washer from colourless plastic? I needed a colourless plastic round sticker for on the paint where the rubber of the tailgate comes when you close it.. and i found one in the giant stock of my painter, he has the straingest parts for cars in many many assortment boxes.. Maybe your painter has some for you..

Any news on the blue one? (I bet he didn't even react.. to your request.) I was thinking.. have you ever driven a 280zx.. maybe thats a better choise, But hurry they are rapidly going up!! think "van der steen" has a nice one here on MP.

Yeah.. and... take a lot of pics before you take it apart the next time.. we all learned that after ... My best guess is it's part of the dash.. somewhere..

For NON Americano.. that's in bills of 100 dollar.. 😉 so it was Benjamin Franklin on those bills..

I've got a 1974-1978 260z clock.. Yes you read it correct.. overhere in europe we didn't have the 280z we had the 260z from 1974 till the 280zx came in 1979! It's a clock with green 3-6-9-12 numbers and a red (seconds) pointer! in the lower part there is the knob to correct the time/date. I got the 3 round indicators as a complete set, so fuel and volts with red led and a oilpress/fuel meter.. all in perfect state. these parts are in storage for a very long time, so this clock has ran only about 10-15 years.. to compare my 240z is 51 years old and the clock still runs....... from time to time.. haha..

I did a black sticker on a 300zxtt (sits under the spoiler on the rear) it was about 10 years old but sticked really good.. you clean the spot really good and put some soapy water on and put the sticker on there. The soapy water helps to place the sticker right on the right spot and then you take a plastic (bondo) tool to get the water from under it and let it dry.. it will stick very well even after a long time. Let it dry for days, do not touch it!

I see a lot of little dents in that car and the paint especially on the hood is terrible.. but yeah a early car.. Also a lot of starting rust spots.. nothing alarming but manny starts, that, if you put this car in wind and weather it will rust very fast.. What it needs is a complete new paintjob and anti rust job..

Yes and no.. If you don't use/connect all the lamps they will flash in a faster way thats all but better to connect them all.. thats also the reason the se cars have two flasher-units.. one for hazard is around 4x 21 watt (Euro!) 4x 23 Watt (U.S.) and 2x 7,5 watt say: 100 Watt. the direction flasher is for 2x21 or 23 Watt plus 1x7,5 is about 50 Watt.. So when 1 lamp is defect the lights flash faster.

Most times those are just good for 1 thing.. throwing it in the bin haha.. a good welder is important.. i got a Aseb, swedish as far i know? well it's a well made machine!. Oh well.. thanks.. But i'm not a pro.. although i think there was once a pro that wanted to hire me to do some work for him but as i'm a bit disabled.. (the last 15 years i spoke around 58 doctors..pff..) i can't do it in a normal way, everything go's as we dutch say: "op z'n elfendertigste" (translated: " on a snails pace" ) To restore the 280zx it took 8 year and still not ready.. But something else.. This morning there is a silver 260z on MP (2e hand site) and it's a Original Dutch car from 1977. I always warn for the original dutch cars because of the weather they have bin in.. but this one looks not to bad.. it's located in Culemborg.. about 100km from my home. Asking 25 plus grand is a lot of money.. ?? What were you trying to say there..?

Hi Mark, yes it's a small world 🙂 ... If i could tell you what it's gonna cost just from a few pictures, i would have a job in no time that made me very rich haha.. I see a lot of strange damage on the car, some damage has white (bondo) under them.. so it will take a complete sand down and paintjob... what will cost you about 10 grand... euro's? Then there are no floor pics so we don't know... almost all need some tlc in the floor section.. The car has roundtops.. so the car was driven al lot i think... most of the mechanics are sloppy.. we simply can't know what the condition is.. Mark, you can see my resto of a very original dutch car 280zx slick roof but don't ask me what it costs.. At the moment i'm to ill to work on it but the engine is out.. last work is the engineroom.. the rest is ready.. 120tkm on the clock in 42 eh 43 years! I've got a 240z and a 300zxtt, the 240z is my wintercar.. looks like a pile of $^!#..haha but it's a ever lasting reliable car! And the 300zxtt is my summercar for 15 years and was never on the road in winter! It's almost like new, all winter "schorsingen" are with the car at the RDW!! Picture from the PO.. Here a link to my restoration.. nice read? If you want to call me some time just shoot me a PM and i give you my cell..

I thought he's talking about those protection chrome/rubber strips .. i had one on my 240z but took it off.. it's somewhere in storage..

Make a template out of paper/cardboard and copy that on a flat part of the innertube.. i havn't made those myself but used innertires for other rubber parts and it works very well.

Yes it is! I wondered why it was on the console.. normally the turnsignal thing is on the left under the dash. It says HBS, i looked it up and S is signal from hornbutton, B is 12v input and H go's to Horn.. H is green B is green/redline S is green/blackline

At first i saw the car and recognised it immediately because i look at cars/parts for sale at "the 2e hands site" and then i saw your from the Netherlands, welcome Mark! Beek en Donk is a place some 30km's from my home! I took a look at your pics and it's a car that needs a lot of work before it's a nice car.. Normally i would say if you are going to take a look at that car i would join you but as i'm not very healthy and this covid stuff i will not take that chance.. Did you drive the car.. for at least 15-20 min.? You asked if the damage on the back was simple.. no.. don't think so.. and i, like others see a lot of bondo.,. (Dutch: Plamuurbak!! 😉 ) Although this could be not much of a problem.. i think it's not very well done as i can see the "american way"of spaying paint.. haha.. the paintjob is terrible.. (ami paintjob means nothing was taken off every part like rubbers on hood edge/ rear deck are also blue...) So it was a quick repair not very well done.. if you want a good car there is need for a paintjob complete! As the driversdoor has also rust in the front of the door (just see the pics..) let alone what else there is to discover! Mart (one letter different 😉 )