texasz

Welcome to Texas. I'm not exactly close, I'm in Austin which is about 3-4 hours south depending on how you drive and traffic. There are many Z around the state! Here are some links to the local clubs: Austin Dallas Houston San Antonio South Texas (I haven't seen much from them ever) The Austin club is hosting a Z car show in two weeks, you should come down for it and meet some of the other Z people you are likely to run into occasionally. Here's a link to the info on it: http://www.capitalzoftexas.com/archives/events/9.18.2004/show2004.php If you do come down for it stop by and say hi to me (I'll be hear my car which is in my avitar and will be entered in the stock class 240Z).

What??? The L28 didn't have an E31 head...ever. That head was only available on the '70 and very early '71 240Z which all have an L24 block.

Hard to tell from the pix but since the hatch is the same color I'd say that it's just painted. On the cars I've seen that did have the vinyl tops it was only the roof and pillars, not the hatch. I have seen another Z or two with a paint job like this (different color though).

IMO the ducted one like 26th-z posted in the first pic is what's going on my car. I just like the style of it, it looks agressive while not looking like "rice".

The Capital Z of Texas club is hosting their annual Z car show on 9/18. Here's a link that should give you all the information you need about the event: http://www.capitalzoftexas.com/archives/events/9.18.2004/show2004.php

I noticed that the FWD holds the road even when it's wet better than a RWD (i.e. the RWD tends to break loose more than the FWD did).

I'm assuming so since he says that one bearing needs replaced.

Anyone got any information about the Cusco LSD for the R180 diff? There's one on eBay and I'm just wondering about them as I've never heard of it. Here's a link to the auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7918914816&fromMakeTrack=true Any help on this would be great!!

Well I just got an email from parts@midwestz.com Unfortunately it was only the "W32.Netsky.P@mm" virus!

Post the link you are having trouble with and someone here may be able to help.

For daily driving I like the BFGoodrich Radial TAs but for autocross I have heard that the Falken Azines (sp?).

I'd be interested in seeing these too so I know what and where to look for them.

These are your two best bets for those parts if you are looking for new parts: Victoria British: http://www.victoriabritish.com/z_zx_cat_page.htm MSA: http://www.motorsportauto.com/

Here's an interesting car on eBay...It was once a Z but who knows what it is now. Pretty nice for what it is though. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2487766191&category=6187

And just what was it that this list sent to you? I didn't even know that there was such a thing... :stupid:

Yet another strange event in this case of missing Chloe... An auction was posted late last night with her account: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7917048122&category=33645 I sent an note to the seller asking about her and am just waiting on a reply.

I think in the thread on hybrid he said that his reserve is $6500. I posted saying that I thought that this may be an unreasonable price considering that it's not even running! :surprised We'll see what happens when all the last minute snipping occurs and the auction is over...but I still don't think that the reserve will be met. I also told him that he may want to post it in Autotrader's Collector Trader section as those cars are listed at top dollar, but I seriously doubt that he will since he's chomopin' at the bit to do his car. I just hope that someone out there is willing to buy this for his ransom. I offered an even trade for a straight rust free NM car I recently acquired but no reply as of yet. Hell, mine even runs and drives well!!

My vote is to stick with the L6 that's in the car and just do some work on it. Header, well tuned carbs (keep the SUs), maybe a cam, electronic ignition, etc. This will help keep your costs down and also should keep you in a reasonable class like stock or something close to it depending upon what work you do on the engine.

Get yourself an N42 instead, it's identical to the N47 except it already has the square ports.

I have a problem with my hood also but a different one. I can close it all the way quite easily but almost every time I get out onto the highway (sometimes not even 40MPH) it will pop open to the safte latch. I have checked the catch pin on the hood and tried adjusting it a couple times with no luck. I have also made sure that the hood release pull handle is pushed all the way back in and this does not make any difference. Any thoughts on this problem?

Ok, I have caused a bit of confusion due to my lack of knowledge. I have heard the same part referred to as headlight buckets, fender extensions, and the sugar scoop. I now have a little more information than when I started this thread as far as naming goes. Now back to the problem at hand... I have gotten up there with a flashlight and now see what you are all talking about. I was thinking that the nuts were welded to the part like most of the others and that the bolt must be removed from the front. I now see that the bolt is a stud which is welded to the sugar scoop and the nut is what must be removed; the opposite of what I was thinking. :stupid: Thank you all for the assistance! I will be back to working on this this evening if it doesn't rain.

I'm not sure I get this...the car is for sale by someone in Colorado and bambikiller is from Cali. What's the Texan remark referr to? :stupid:

I couldn't agree with you more...but that is just the way it is.

I have a 4Runner and get my performance parts for it from Performance Products, I know that they cary performance pads so you may want to check them out.

Having worked for Progressive for many years that's crap. They will insure anything and anyone (for a price), and that's the honest truth. What is likely happening is that the computer systems can only accurately decipher a 17 digit VIN which started in '80 or '81 and this is why you are unable to get a quote online with either company. Do it the old fashon way, pick up the phone. I know that when I worked there I had VIN books that went back to the '50s and would have to dust them off when someone wanted a car of that vintage insured because the computer could not determine what the car was since the VIN was less than 17 digits...and we had TONS of people still driving '70s models. FYI: I worked there from '92-98.