texasz

Tax yes but consider this...what it the sale price was only $1...how much tax are we talking about?

Maybe so but what if he ever wants to sell the car to someone who lives in another state? Not that any of us would EVER sell our Z.

Lokk here!! A 99% rust free rolling chassis with three pencile sized holes in the floor near the driver's seat, NO pass. seat, cracked windshield, missing pass. head light bucket, missing front bumper, missing grill, missing cowl, missing hood inspection doors (over the battery and washer bottle), missing radiator, missing front marker lights, perfect dash (probably just a cover), and a hole in the hood indicating that this had a V8 in it which also likely means that the front wiring harness is gone. All this for the low, low, LOW starting price of $1000!!!! :surprised Wanna see it!? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=39405&item=2472733241&rd=1 If this sells I need to put my rust bucket parts car on eBay!!!

Oooppppssss, my bad. Sorry about that.

Watch the Just SUs video from ZT, he not only shows pix of one but also tells you where to get the parts to put it together.

It's not all that bad, if you have it you need to watch the Just SUs video from ZT. He shows what you are looking for and even tells you where to get it and how to install it.

Ok, here's another one...

There have been many thread about this topic in the past and they should contain all of the info you need. Just do a search on it from the bottom of the previous page.

Keeping with the spirit...

And one last one because someone mentioned the type of channel, so here's a shot of the channel after removal.

Now for those interested in the pieces themselves, here's a shot of the pieces after removal.

Next one is after removal...note that not only were these attached with one screw at each end but also with the 'tape' running the full length of them.

Ok, I've worked on this a bit and have some pix to share. The first is a pic of how these are mounted to the car.

I didn't really expect to move it as a whole unit...was hoping to though. I guess that you'll be seeing parts of it for sale here and there in the future. :devious:

Z-Kid, this is off topic but your avitar kills me everytime I see it...I just can't stop laughing.

There's one on there now for $0.99 and NO bids! I really don't want to have to toss it in the trash but it seems as though if I do not it will sit in my garage for ever. I wonder if the core is worth anything!?

I'd like to know what head components are interchangable between all L series engines from the Z cars (i.e. E88, E31, N42, N47, P79, P90, etc)? Obviously the valve cover is but how about the cam, cam towers, valve springs, etc? I'm asking because I have a complete P79 head that I have listed on 3 forums including this site and nobody has expressed any interest, as I expected, so I'm wondering if there's any value in taking it apart and selling the smaller parts of it mentioned above.

As you can see in this pic my car has this black strip that runs down each side to help prevent door dings. I want to remove it since it's starting to come off already any how but do not know how it's attached nor what it will look like once removed. Is this stuff just stuck on with glue or double side 3M 'tape'? Any tips or advice would be great. Hmmmmm.....ok I can not seem to link to a pic in My Gallery so here's the link to the pic I was trying to show: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=5609&size=big&password=&sort=7&thecat=500

Thank you for pointing that out, this was my problem and it's easy to fix. About $70 in parts for 2 of the high quality race u-joints and another $50 I paid someone to do the work (while I watched and learned, never to pay for this again now) and "the clunk in my trunk" was gone!

Very true!

If you look behind the car you can see the blue tarp was must have been on the car.

Honestly, if you're gonna have to do any tranny work just swap it to a 5-speed. You will probably spend a bit more money but IMHO a sports car deserves a stick not an automatic. Also, earlier on you were talking about the car only going 60mph and asking if an R200 diff would help. The R180 or R200 does not affect this at all, what would affect this would be the ratio; that is if this was even your problem which it doesn't sound like it is. As it was already mentioned the lower ratio is good for top end and the higher ration is better of the hole shot, you must strike a balance with the ratio and the gear ratio of the tranny based upon the kind of driving you expect to do. As for the weight vs. amount of HP it will handle the info is correct, the R200 does weigh more but this is a function of it being built to handle more HP...but if you are running a stock set up then you should not be in danger of damaging your R180 diff.

So true, so true!

Not really the case. Here's a link to a thread from last year that provides all the info about the R180 and R200 ratio options: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1568&perpage=15&pagenumber=2 And as such also heavier. I mention this because for some racers they try and cut weight anywhere they can.

Sorry I never answered your question. Yes, that was the one I was bidding on...I was trying to get it for a little coin and allowed it to go very cheap. The winning bidder got a good deal on this for eBay.