texasz

The bottom of this rod should just slide up and out of the latch mechanism.

Thanx Mike!! I tried all kinds of search engines but not this one. :stupid:

Could I get you to look up a phone number for me? The information is below: JAMES ARTENZIO PAWLISH or ANN PAWLISH 226 ferry st Sewickley PA. 15143 I tried searching on the web with no luck.

Ok, so you all know how you are working on something and things are not going well you just can not see the forrest for the trees....well that was me on this problem. I have used the breaker bar technique before but had just got so frustrated I forgot about it. :stupid: I tried that this morning and it worked great!! Thank you all for reminding me about this method.

Ok, I was removing a head yesterday and came across a stuck head bolt that put a halt to this very quickly (removing them in order of course and can go no further). I tried using an impact wrench (not the most powerful one out there mind you, it's the $75 Craftsman model) and I also tried doing to loosen it by hand but got no where. This baby is just plain stuck!! Can anyone out there provide some tips on loosening it?

I have a 4Runner and buy my performance and upgrade parts from Performance Products; they have a website and may ship to the UK.

From what I understand basically, yes you would need to run premium if you have a 10:1 CR.

I didn't mention that the N42 and the N47 are exactly the same except for the exhaust ports. So if you do have the N47 you could still put it on your '82 block and get the same 10:1 compression. Only reason I said just drop the entire '82 engine in if you had the N47 head was for ease.

Or if the '77 head happens to be an N42 put it on the 280ZX block. With the flat-top pistons this combination will yeild aprox 10:1 compression ratio. As for your manifold question, the intakes should be the same. The exhaust on the other hand may be different. If your '77 head is an N47 they are both the same, round exhaust ports but if your '77 head is an N42 these will be square ports and the 280ZX which has a P79 head are round ports. The issue here is pretty simple, if your '77 head is an N47 then just drop in your entire 280ZX engine and you're good to go just as hls30.com said...if your '77 head is an N42 do as I said above and you will still not have to change the manifolds. Easy solution either way!

For what it's worth to anyone who wants to take on this task as you already know you will need the peddles from a standard. I just removed the ones from my parts car last night and it's really quite easy, took maybe 15 minutes. The brake peddle it held in place by one bolt at the top which is where it pivots, this is removed from the right side of the peddle (you must also unhook the return spring and remove the pin/bolt which attaches it to the brake booster). The clutch peddle is just the same except that the bolt is on the left side. This presents a problem as the driver's side fresh air vent is in the way of getting a socket wrench up there, this part is only held on by 3 philips screws and is easily removed with a stubby philips screwdriver. Then remove the pivot bolt, the spring, and the pin/bolt attaching the peddle to the clutch master cylinder. That's it! If you want the gas peddle it is held in by 4 philips screws. Remove them and unattach the thorttle linkage (which just pops off) and you're done with removing that one. Hope this is able to help someone out there.

Post a pic of them. I'd be interested in seeing them. Unless they are the slot mags I don't know anything about them though.

I must agree with everyone else, $5000 is too high. For that price you can get one in better condition pretty easily, or pay less for one in comparable condition then use the savings to fix her up the way you want.

I think I know the car you're talking about, I saw it for sale and considered it but too far to drive and I have my hands full already. If it's the one I'm thinking of I believe you got a great deal on it. Wecome to the club and we'll be talking with you as your project progresses. :classic:

I must agree...I'm completely speachless. My condolances to James and all who are affected by this. He will be greatly missed by all here and everyone close to him. I know he's driving that perfect Z car in the sky.

Yes, as everyone else has said they will work.

If either of you end up not being able to fix it shoot me an email or PM, I have one for sale.

Here's a link to a couple threads I started on this very topic and there's a lot of good information in them. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=137998&sortby=&sortorder= To find them all I did was use the search feature at the bottom of the forum index page. (lame attempt at pointing out the search feature)

I did the same thing but only sent a note to the current high bidder.

But of course he will not be sending any email to the bidders to clear this up either...he'll just take the money, send the pic and call it a day. Very sad that people have no morals any longer. If it weren't clearly stated in the auction that this is only for a pic I'd feel bad for the person who wins, but in this case not...they should have read and if it was still unclear send an email before bidding. *shrug*

Absolutely amazing site! Talke about packed with info...

Yes, and why in the world would you spend over $50 on a picture of an engine!? :bandit: I'm going to go take pix of mine tonight and post them up on eBay. :stupid:

Here's a link I found on another board, it looks like a pretty good site. http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/

Very well done Bambi, this is the same thing I would have advised. I too do this. :classic:

Then try searching the manufacturer's website for the owner's/installation manual. You really need to figure out what all the wires are for FIRST, you can damage your unit by hooking up power to the wrong wire.

Looks like a pic taken from an eBay auction.