texasz

Does nobody have this on TiVo who is willing to put it on a VHS for me? INF, how about you...I could even pick it up from you here in town?

I second that. Proper torque is preferred.

NO! You can get a used stock hatch for $50-100 depending upon condition, and a fiberglass hood for a bit over $100. So $1000 for a light-weight hatch is really high IMHO. I paid $1500 for my '70 240Z to put this in perspective even more.

I've been patiently and quietly waiting to know how much you want for them for weeks. We had a discission about them on PM.

I was wondering this myself the other day when I saw this auction. I still have no idea.

"Women are NOT for Decoration"....certainly not the one holding the sign!!! :tapemouth I'm assuming that she's protesting Hooters....funny thing is that I know plenty of women that like going there...my wife loves their hot wings.

In the US I have seen them sell for as little as $200 on up to $300 for the part...then add shipping to where ever. These are used parts of course. As for junk yards...I was hot on the search last month and they were not available any cheaper. Most junk yards only had complete LD28 engines and would not part them out, they wanted to sell the entire engine. But I did find one that was selling the engine for $200 so I convinced them to pull the crank and sell it to me for the same price leaving them some additional parts they could still sell. These little gems are rather tough to find and when you do locate one they hold a nice high price tag on them.

I didn't have a metric socket large enough (it's larger than a 24mm) so I used a 1 1/16 socket on mine. Hope this helps.

Yes, you're right...you can not remove it with what you have done. I recently pulled the crank pulley from a 240Z with that AC pulley and found that the AC pulley is not only attached to the main crank pulley with those two small bolts but it us also under the crank pulley bolt. So you must remove the crank pulley bolt (get an impact wrench, I had to remove the radiator to get my impact wrench in there) then the AC pulley will just fall off. Then you can replace the crank pulley bolt. See this thread for a discussion on removing the crank pulley bolt. Easier solution, leave the AC pulley alone.

Where are you located?

Impact wrench! This is the only way I have had any luck. However with the engine still in the car I had to pull the radiator to get my impact wrench in there.

Ok, so for those of us who do not get that chanel is there anyone willing to recorder this show and send me a video tape?

I wasn't sure which forum to put this in... I wanted to find out what Z cars have the gear reduction starters in them?

The local Z wiz has told be before that 750RPMs is the correct idle speed.

Wanna see pix of this done to a 350Z? Check this out!! This car was at the Z car show in Sept. here in Texas. http://www.pape.ws/gallery/2004_Capital_of_Texas_Z_Car_Show?page=1

Courtesy Nissan by any chance?

I have a few questions: Can anyone tell me what size flywheels the different Z cars have? Also, how interchangeable are they? How do you determine what flywheel you should install (i.e. based upon engine block, tranny model, etc)? And how do you determine what clutch you need to buy (i.e. based upon engine block, tranny, flywheel, etc)?

Here's Rebello's website: http://www.rebelloracing.com/ There is also a place in GA call Sunbelt Racing that is supposed to be good and they do the 3.1L strokers as well: http://www.sunbeltperformance.com/

Yes. Major PITA I'm sure.

Yes, now that I sit back and look at it I'm wondering what I am thinking...trying to get all this done this fall/winter. :stupid: I wold tend to agree with you about the engine bay color but there are a couple things I'm working with here, one is the protection of the area and with POR-15 I should never have to deal with the engine bay again. The second is that I'm not any where near ready to paint the car so I can't do the engine bay very well; and I'm not pulling the engine again just to paint the area. Now as for any other feedback....does anyone have any???

No replies. Does this mean that everyone sells them for about the same price?

Post a pic of the nut you need. Someone in the states may be able to get them for far less and ship to you.

Anyone know of a good place to get the HKS 2mm big bore head gasket for cheap?

Please help me out a little here. I'm working on an engine build and trying to get everything together that I will need. I have the main engine covered (block, head, internals, gaskets, etc) I think. FYI, working on a stroker if this info is important. Additionally I will need the external components and have created this list, please let me know if anything is missing: '79 Mazda RX7 OEM electric Fuel Pump Turbo Z Car Oil Pump Water Pump Alternator some ignition system but not sure which (suggestions?) New clutch (probably a Centerforce) Now while the engine is out I have also compiled this list of things to do from another thread here (I'm also swapping the tranny and diff at the same time). Please let me know if I'm missing anything on this: Strip and redo engine compartment with POR-15 Replace steering rack bushings (use urethane ones right?) Replace steering coupler disc Replace motor mounts with Datsun OEM parts Replace tranny mounts (what part is recommended, OEM?) Replace clutch slave cylinder Replace front diff mount with solid unit from ArizonaZCar Replace half shaft and drive shaft U-Joints with spicer U-Joints Input is very welcome as this will be my first go at this kind of project and really need all the help I can get.

I read a thread a few weeks ago about "what to do while my engine is out" and can not find it now. I remember that there was some really good info in there and wanted to review it again. Can anyone point me to this thread?