texasz

Kmack, If you come across another deal like that PLEASE grab it!! I just live up the road from you and would like a 4 or 5 point. Did you fab the bar that they attach to behind the seat? Is this an easy thing to do?

Just a thought but you may want to check to make sure that your spare tire is still fastened down. When you hit a bump it will bounce and make a clunk sound when it lands.

I have not had time to mess with any adjustments yet but I have noticed that it also backfires and bogsdown a bit when you press on the gas (I noticed this when it was "cold", as if 95F outside is cold). Anyone got any ideas what may be wrong?

cmottley, you have a PM

Thanx guys!! I'm in the process of buying the one that supports our site here. :classic:

How much are you looking to spend and what condition must they be in? I know that new ones can be purchased from VB.

Thank you Gav. I have read that site many times, this is one of the resources which lead me to the P90 head. I have been fairly confident in that decision until I began seeing many people here talk about the N42 or E88 being better to use.

What's the difference between the CD sold through this club and this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6762&item=2418912048 Also how can one get the CD now-a-days?

SoCalZ, Is there any special reason your fuel lines are wrapped up?

Posting pix will help answer some people's question as well as show off those nice wheels you have.

Really? I remember reading that putting a 4 barl. on these does not make them run very well. Reason being is that cyl 1 & 6 tend to run too lean and cyl. 3 & 4 tend to run too rich; or something like that. It has to do with the design of the intake and where the carb sits. After seeing a pic of the intake I can understand this as the carb sits right on top of the pipes that go to cyl. 3 & 4 and there's a ways to travel to get to cyl. 1 & 6. Now keeping in mind I'm far from knowedgable, thus my question; this is only what I read.

Yes, I have read that the P90 and P79 are almost identical except for the exhaust ports, on the P79 they are round with those little sleeves in them and on the P90 they are square. The other difference that I remember reading is one you already sighted about the P90 breathing the best of all the heads. What mods would have to be made to the P90 head to make it better? You said big $$$, I will have to contact someone locally to see how much it would cost but have to know what to ask to have done first.

I remember reading somewhere that the L series engines did not run so well on down draft carbs. Yes many people has Webber DGVs which are down drafts and the car runs very well. The SUs are side draft and that's what came stock on the car so maybe Datsun knew this when the cars were build. Is there really one that is type that is best for these engines? Is there one carb that is considered to be the best for the Z cars? Or does it really make any difference as long as what ever is on the car is properly sized and tuned?

My new orange '71 (8/70 production date) shows 59xxx miles on it. But I hardly believe that is all that's on the car. Try more like 159xxx or 259xxx miles. The odd part is that on the odometer the first number seems to be even with the other numbers. I thought that after they rolled over the first number sat higher than the other numbers. *shrug* I don't care how many miles are on it, it's mine, I love it, and I'm keeping it.

Ok, you say that the F54 block is the block to have as many others have also said (seems to be an agreement on this)...good, I got one in the garage. You then say that the N42 head is the head to have, others have said this as well. However, I have also read that the P90 (NOT the P90a) head is the one to have. What's the difference? Why does there seem to be a debate on this? Which one REALLY is the better one to have? I do still want to be able to drive my car on the street, but want the best performance I can reasonably get without spending a fortune.

I completely agree!! I would love one for my car but don't have the bucks for the book. The only issue is copy right.

Just curious, but what would happen if you didn't run premium gas in a 10:1 ratio car?

Sorry for my typo, that should have read RICH! I will edit to correct...

Question of the flaming tail pipe... I watched the bonus material on the DVD too and they showed some stuff about "Tricking Out a Hot Car", they of course picked a Mitus to do this to. Anyhow, the guy said that this does really happen to these cars if they are running very RICH. Now of course by these cars he's talking about the ones with $25k in aftermarket engine work etc. done to them. Not sure if you want to believe this or not, I'm just passing on what was said. I really did enjoy the racing and the cars. But nothing will pull me from my Z!! As interesting as the cars and mods were it truely is overkill. I am interested in seeing the new movie though.

I know that I'm probably the only person in the free world who had not seen this movie but I just finished watching it about 10 minutes ago and damn!!! There are some sweet cars in there, all Japaneese too. In the sequal they are using a Nissan Skyline! I can't wait to see that car. I'm just curious, I've seen where people get their hands on Skiline engines. Do these fit in 240Z cars and how much do they run? I'll bet they cost a mint since the car is not even abaliable in the states.

I wouldn't expece that to be the case. That part of my post was about the other dash lights, they are all rather dim.

I was in O'Reilly Auto Parts last night getting a couple things and they found a part number for it and are looking to see if they have them or if they can get them. I'll update this post when I find out.

I can not open either door from the outside and climbing through the hatch is just not acceptable! On the pass door the rod that is connected to the outside door handle is missing the nylon nut thingy that connects it to the latch. On the driver's side the outside door handle is broken and needs replaced as well as the nylon nut thingy on the rod that is connected to the outside door handle and the to the latch is is shattered. MSA's catalog shows that they sell the outside door handle but it does not say if the rod I also need comes with it or not and it does not show it to be available seperately. There is a line pointing to it but no description, name, or part number. VB shows the outside door handle available but does not indicate if the rod comes with it nor does it appear to be available seperately. In the diagram it is kind of greyed out. HELP!!!!!! I CAN'T GET IN MY CAR SO I CAN'T DRIVE IT!!!

Yes, exactly alfadog...it's kind of a pain.

Really? I have never owned a Z and this just looked strange to me. Looked like a throtal body spacer to me; you know like the ones you can buy for newer cars that have a spiral on the inside to create a vortex. I know a little about those one because I'm planning on getting one for my 4Runner. Thanx for the info!