Everything posted by texasz
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MSA rear swaybar for a 10/71 240z...Question
Here's a link to a couple threads I started on this very topic and there's a lot of good information in them. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=137998&sortby=&sortorder= To find them all I did was use the search feature at the bottom of the forum index page. (lame attempt at pointing out the search feature)
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Check this one out!
I did the same thing but only sent a note to the current high bidder.
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Check this one out!
But of course he will not be sending any email to the bidders to clear this up either...he'll just take the money, send the pic and call it a day. Very sad that people have no morals any longer. If it weren't clearly stated in the auction that this is only for a pic I'd feel bad for the person who wins, but in this case not...they should have read and if it was still unclear send an email before bidding. *shrug*
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great history site
Absolutely amazing site! Talke about packed with info...
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Check this one out!
Yes, and why in the world would you spend over $50 on a picture of an engine!? :bandit: I'm going to go take pix of mine tonight and post them up on eBay. :stupid:
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Good Looking Site...
Here's a link I found on another board, it looks like a pretty good site. http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/
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Where to get this T-shirt?
Very well done Bambi, this is the same thing I would have advised. I too do this. :classic:
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Installing a Deck
Then try searching the manufacturer's website for the owner's/installation manual. You really need to figure out what all the wires are for FIRST, you can damage your unit by hooking up power to the wrong wire.
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Where to get this T-shirt?
Looks like a pic taken from an eBay auction.
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please comment
Looks really nice, I like it! I think that the additional info would be good also, it's always nice to only have to look in one place for the info instead of several places.
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'72 engine, tranny, etc - how much are these worth?
Engine - tough to sell sometimes because shipping is so high Transmission - if it's a 4-speed you'd be lucky to sell it Dual Carburetors - dual SU with intake may go for $100 depending on condition Alternator - not sure but probably not much Louvres - for the rear window, $20-60 on eBay
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Listed as a 1970, obviously not
Yes, this seems fishy. The VIN would indicate an early '70 but the pillar vents.... He doesn't seem to know a whole lot about these seeing as how he states that the hood if from a later 240Z with the vents...that's a 280Z hood; could just be a typo.
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Stock hp?
Both are correct. 170hp at the crank, 150hp at the rear wheels.
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different 240z grills
Yes, the one on the top is from a '73...I have one just like it in my garage from my '73 parts car. Does anyone know if '73 is the only year which was different?
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rear hatch hinge seals
Damn, I can't find them either. The auction must be over or have been ended by the seller. Sorry, now I wish I had remembered about this thread when I saw them. :disappoin
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rear hatch hinge seals
I saw a pair on eBay just recently (like within the past 3 days or so). It was a new post at the time so I'm sure that they are still there.
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HOMEMADE Cold Air Induction.. dimensions.... options..... how much??
You're right sorry, you mentioned motion and I just keyed in on that. I don't know thermodynamics...so I can't help you there.
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tranny problem? swap originality-advise
Since you've already got a 3.9 diff you might as well swap the 4-speed for a 5-speed...that is if the tranny is really the problem otherwise just fix the problem and worry about the swap when you have the money to do it or are forced to. You will get better results in the higher speeds and gears (i.e. on the highway) than you are seeing with the 4-speed but shouldn't loose much if any of your low end torque.
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HOMEMADE Cold Air Induction.. dimensions.... options..... how much??
Newton's third law: An object in motion will stay in motion unless/untill acted upon by an outside force. Now if you try and say that when you roll a ball on a level surface it will eventually stop without being touched or hitting the wall...the outside force acting upon it which causes it to stop is called gravity. :classic:
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Hi!
Welcome to the club!! This is by far the best Z car site I have found. Everyone here is very friendly, helpful, informative, knowledgable, and at times down right hillarious. I took a look at the pic you uploaded into your gallery...your poor Z...covered in all that icky white stuff. :classic:
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Hyundai joins Toyota, Honda atop quality list
A friend had one...I had never seen a bigger pile of s**t on wheels in my life!! Spent more time in the shop than on the road, paint was crap after only 2 years, interior was no better (it was parked in a parking garage at work all day everyday too).
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Which FSM?
I understand your concern and have thought about this also. However, the car is not unmolested to begin with so I'm not changing too much more, plus all of the changes I'm making can easily be undone. Also, the car is titled as a '71 so it's not as "collectible" as one that is titled as a '70. And it's my car so I can do what I want. :classic: Seriously though, I can easily undo the things I'm changing if I ever wanted to...I'm not doing any massive body work like huge flares or anything.
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Interesting...
I wonder why it's gone too...how strange. *shrug* Why yes I did save some pix of it!
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Which FSM?
I'd have to agree! This is a good question. I have a 8/70 production Z (a series 1 car) and I'm planning on putting an F54 block, an N42 head, and 4-screw SU carbs in it with a '77 5-speed and a 3.9 R180 rearend. Which FSM would I need?
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Interesting...
Far from a Z but quite interesting none the less... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2475019485#ebayphotohosting