siteunseen

Push the guide in and use the back hole here, is what I'd do.

Plenty of beer wisdom too. I should change my last name, eh? -Cliff Clavin

My garage door is covered with that stuff from cranking when the door is down. It shoots out a cartoonish "splat" after warm up and then revving it up during the winter months.

It comes in plastic jugs and you need good airflow with it. The fumes are bad up close. I've done a couple of gas tanks using it in my garage with the doors up, open. Poured the used stuff in a 5 gallon bucket and put a good fitting lid on that. Kept it in my garage using it for small stuff for a week or two.

You should follow this word for word. Same car as mine and yours. I did it. Very simple. All we can say is "wow". Thank you Phillip @240260280 https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

I tried a magnet on the OE intake/exhaust gasket from 1972. It wouldn't hold itself but definitely had some pull. That's the old stock exhaust manifold from Nissan. The gasket that came with the 6 into 1 header from MSA had zero pull from the magnet. It feels like thin cardboard. So Mr X is right from where I'm standing along with MSA. But! my Nissan metal exhaust covered gasket pictured above is as quiet as a church mouse with the header. I did not use the MSA supplied paper/fiber gasket. Just a bulls**t observation is all. "Whatever works"

You should add a clear filter between the tank and pump also. Cheap and easy to check for crud that may be in your tank. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

I've always balanced them by removing off the rod instead of the piston. Seems like the same end result is what we want. Total weight per assembly and I ground off the sides closest to the pistons. As the "bluebird of optimism" says "whatever works". @Captain Obvious

Bought it my local dealership. They had to overnight it of course but they still make them. I think zcardepot.com has them as well. If you make out the p/n let me know and I'll get the receipt out of my file. Looks like 14035-E4610. Google that and see what pops up. Yeah that's right number

Mine's got a lot! Not in it but outside of it.

Maybe PB Blaster, Simple Green and grandpa's toothpaste? 😇

Good to hear! Also good to know professionals use acetone and transmission fluid.

I don't remember doing the key any paticular way just flat side goes up. And my timing chain was so tight I thought the same thing, too tight but that was about 4 years ago and everything is fine. Motor spins up really quick. Plus I put my brand new timing kit on a new rebuild at hole #3 the last one for chain stretch so that made it extra tight. That worried me for about a year but it never broke or caused any problems just advanced the mechanical timing 8 degrees I think? gave it more bottom end but with the 5 speed I put in there it has plenty of top end too. Your tensioner does have that rubber/plastic washer between the plunger and the body right? I think I can see it. From Zed's post above...

FWIW my Alabama '77 did not have the heat shield or converter. It was original before I got a hold of it.

You could ask the machinest how much to take some weight off the OE flywheel. The aluminum ones are expensive so a lot of folks lighten the stock one. Use that assembly lube, mine looked like fake blood but I can't remember the name right off. That really helps the bearings while you rotate the crank putting the pistons in. Sounds like you've covered all your bases and should be a walk in the park. Take your time though, I get excited and go too fast and end up making mistakes. Have fun!

On my 2nd go round with the 240 I used that Loctite that's blue. It's not as strong but from all I read it's great for regular vibrations. The gel stick is the way to go on bolt threads.

Thanks for changing the topic. Maybe you or me might start a new thread on Z secrets that only some can pass on to us. There's a few that I found by reading from my day 1 that are like writing the oil change date on the new filter with a Sharpie. Simple, but took a reminder to see the light.

I don't see any leaking, black soot, so maybe the intake gasket sealed it up good enough. I would measure the protruding section of the header. It may fit inside the exhaust ports? My 2 from MSA were flat as you say. Is there a name anywhere readable like Pacesetter? Those are cheap headers but like I saw there doesn't look like any leaking. Was it noisy? Ticking like a bad exhaust manifold/header seal. More info on any type problem or noise would be helpful to us.

I'm sorry, I lost my bearings reading your post. Post a picture of it and let the other members give you some experiences they may have had.

https://www.google.com/search?q=crankshaft+bearings+classiczcars.com&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&prmd=vsin&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjkrM7ItJjyAhUjc98KHaQPCM8Q_AUoA3oECAIQAw&biw=320&bih=449&dpr=2.25#imgrc=xiJYkfGv9-2Z8M

If I remember right that groove is an oiling feature.

That's too funny Wayne! We are very skeptical of the "odd accent" types. They want SOMETHING.

Great pic of the motor's lean to the passenger's side. Adjust the valves after marking the center of the cam towers. Just call me Analee. Giggity!

Thanks @CanTechZ!!! Now I'm gonna have to dig through my storage shed and find my OEs. I have a '72 so I'd like to know.

I get this stuff at Lowes or Tractor supply for less than $40. Spray cabinet for small stuff or a big plastic tub or a tarp on the ground for the big stuff lets me reuse it many times after sifting it through a Walmart sifter. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Black-Bull-80-Grit-Abrasive-Glass-Beads/5001782823