siteunseen

We're gonna need to see some pictures of that beauty. It sounds nice and well taken care of. Cliff

A hair dryer or heat gun on lowest setting would work and much easier than a heat lamp in my opinion. I have not done this though and respectfully will be keeping up as mine will eventually need new ones too.

This one has the most photos. I used it for my '72 so I'd think you will see something. The good pics are towards the end of the thread. Good luck.

Me too! Love the sound. Bada boom.

Zed Head you type faster than Wanda Wiggins. I bought a ZX E12-80 distributor from amazon.com for $100. I had to buy a cap and button. It looked like a brand new one and has performed flawlessly since 2015. I am very happy with it. I remember reading a couple of years ago that someone bought one from amazon too and had problems with it. Turned out to be the ignition module was bad. If you have yours rebuilt you should make sure the rebuilder can get a new module. I'm pretty sure they're NLA now so there's that to consider. I put "1979 280ZX" in the search criteria and the body was stamped with the corresponding numbers for a '79 which is the best one according to the Excel spreadsheet Walter Moore made for the different distributors. Distributor advance curves S30-S130.xls

I sure hope VP Pence gets this Corona virus under control before ZCON.

According to this your '75 is different than my '77. Yours should have a screwdriver adjustment not a nut like mine. @Captain Obvious has a good post about 60% down the first page. Let me try the new way to get there...

No pintle cap. I didn't modify them at all, just slid them in. I think they had a wider spray than the OEs did but that's been many beers ago when I researched and decided to buy them. I'm not sure they still sale the 707"T"s. Never knew what that T stood for either.

Mine didn't look like the OEs. They did come with both the larger and smaller rubber insulators.

My first Z was a '76 and I really liked that car. It was quick and looked even quicker. Glad you found and bought your dream car. You'll find a lot of help here. We'll need pictures ASAP!

If I remember right a set of the Standard FJ707T was as cheap as having mine sent off and cleaned. That was a pain in the rectum trying to get info on injectors in 2011 when I built the 2.8 motor. You'll see Bigfoot before you get straight, consistent data. Those FJ3s on ebay were a popular choice back then. Fastwoman had them and liked them too. She was quite picky, OCD-ish, I miss her participation on here.

I rerouted my early '77 to the better pcv route. Here's the thread. Thanks again Captain.

Is that high temp Play-Doh?

If you decide to clean the throttle body take your time with that accordion boot from the AFM to the throttle body. It'll split if you look at wrong. I wouldn't even try to get it off without first unsecuring the afm from its base. Once you have access to the opening an old toothbrush or 2 and some lacquer thinner will clean it up like new.

My BCDD had a high idle when I first got the car running decent. I was able to adjust it now it's fine. If yours drops when you pull the pedal up that has me thinking your throttle blade is gummed up and sticking. If it stays high without fooling with the pedal I'd clean the throttle body but if it drops down after a few seconds you need to try and adjust the BCDD. It's very easy to do just by driving around your neighborhood and turning the nut on bottom. It'll get better one way and worse the other way.

Sounds like a bad distributor but that's just too easy to say. Here's my "go to" on everything 280. This is a ZX dizzy but they're pretty much the same except for the matchbox ignition module. You could read over it and maybe something will light that bulb in your head. I know I've found loose ball bearings in mine when I first bought it. It may be as simple as the reluctor being out of spec? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html Thank you Phillip for putting this together! It's been a big help to a lot of us. @240260280

I found this thread from 2007, it has a lot of information. I got tired of reading. Also some more here... https://www.google.com/search?q=john+morton+bre+240+wheels+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=john+morton+bre+240+wheels+classiczcars.com&aqs=chrome..69i57.23812j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Turn the valve cover upside down and lay the gasket down on it. You'll see right away.

No, no I've had the same ones for years. I was saying there's an ever so slight difference between the driver's side and passenger's side. The driver's side is a little different above the thermostat housing. Make sure and get it right or you'll have a small hole that will leak air. Once you get one on just loosen the bolts and the gasket will stay with the valve cover. Pull it straight up then sit it aside upside down.

The only sure fire high speed of mine is "free fall" and I think that's around 120mph if I pushed it out the back of an airplane.

If you were born in 1970, according to this article, the most important car in the United States was the 240Z. https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/g23320934/car-history/?utm_source=taboola_arb&utm_medium=cpm&utm_campaign=arb_tb_pop_d_t_g23320934&slide=51

I've always had to get those valve cover gaskets overnighted at the local chain stores, Felpro and they're only $10 to $15. I use ratailmenot.com for a 20% coupon code at Advance Auto. You can buy it online and have it shipped to your local store for free. A couple have been bent up during shipping so I refused them and got a good the next day. It's a small difference but it got by me one time, the driver's side is a little straighter up front so be sure and set the gasket the right way or you'll have a small vacuum leak. If you haven't done it yet it would probably be a good time to check the valve lash cold at first. If they're bad off you will have to buy the tools and set them to spec. I bought that stuff at Autozone, they're the only ones around here that had the right feeler gauge and the 17mm crows foot socket. Here's a picture of what I use and it seems to work pretty good. The more you do it the easier it'll be. I like to write them out and "X" off the ones I've done. You should be able to get 2 at a time, one may be on one end of the cam and one on the opposite end so that helps me keep up. It's crazy hearing the first time but this is actually kinda fun after you understand what to do. Post a picture of the valve train when you get the cover off, I'm nosey. This is what I learned by. Valve adjust starts about picture 20. Kammy's Valve Adjusting https://web.archive.org/web/20080720024048/http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=12&uid=786489&gid=1803105

I can't figure out all those splatter spots. Is it oil? Seems hard to get that where it is unless you've used an air hose or similar to maybe clean?

What's the history of the motor? A lot of miles or pretty fresh rebuild? Does it smoke on start-up? You like driving it or working on it? It may be time to freshen it up but that's what I always do, get it roadworthy, dependable. I'd rather work on mine anyway. I guess it's time to buy another one instead of talking other people into working on theirs.

A handheld mirror works good.